Archive for the ‘Cats’ Category

Pet nametags save lives and make reunions with lost pets easier!

Monday, May 2nd, 2011

The community where I live has its own micro-blog, a 21st century version of town crier, I suppose, in which up-to-the-minute reports of traffic, crime, community events, new business openings, sales, and general chitter-chatter among the residents hold court. One of the largest (and frequented) sections on this blog is the Pets section, a place where people can post pictures and announcements about lost and found pets. Sadly, but perhaps unsurprisingly, the “Lost” pets greatly outweigh the “Found” pets in number. The good news for my community, however, is through this forum, a greater proportion of lost pets and and their anxiety-ridden owners are reunited than if there was no public forum like this for people to communicate immediately and quickly.

I am surprised at how many of the “Found” pets are noted as having no collar or microchip. Obviously, zero identifying markers makes their reunion with their owners much more difficult. If not for this (or a similar) community forum, the owners would have no other option but to go the old fashioned route: putting up “Lost Dog” flyers, and frequenting local animal shelters, armed only with hope that their lost animal family member will turn up, and that they get to the shelter first before their furbaby is adopted out to another family, or worse, euthanized!

The loss of a pet is one of the biggest fears of any pet owner, and yet is one of the most preventable calamities. Simply putting a simple, inexpensive name tag on your pet’s collar allows anyone that finds your pet to 1) recognize that it’s not a stray and is in fact a loved family member, and 2) get him back to you immediately. Most people are more likely to approach and take in an animal with a collar than one without (particularly if it’s a medium or large-breed dog).

Even though microchipping has become a very popular option for safeguarding your pet due to its permanence, microchips are invisible, and without a collar, the person finding your pet may not know it’s a family pet, and are more likely to simply alert animal control that there is a loose dog in the area. A microchip is a tiny device that your veterinarian quickly and safely injects just under your pet’s skin, that remains there for life, unnoticed by your pet. The microchips contain a unique ID number that is linked either to the veterinary office that inserted the chip, or directly to you, depending on what service you pay for.  It costs more to have the microchip linked directly to your phone number. Even with a microchip, you’re not completely safeguarded from losing your pet. Though these microchips are read by many veterinary clinics and animal shelters using electronic hand-held scanners, not all animal facilities have scanners, and the individual who is most likely to find your pet probably won’t have a scanner either. In addition, this service can also become essentially useless if you don’t update the microchip service and veterinary office it’s associated with, anytime you: 1) change addresses 2) move 3) switch vets and/or 4) change phone numbers.

All animal control centers and veterinary services should check for microchips, so paying for microchipping is still a great safeguard for your pet in case your pet gets out without his collar and subsequently turns up at one of these places, but if your pet is wearing a collar with name tag, you will probably be reunited with your lost pet much quicker. If a microchip is the only identifier for your pet, the time that can elapse between when your pet is found, taken into a shelter or veterinary office, scanned, located, and then reunited with you, often through the roundabout method of the microchip service contacting the linked veterinary office, who then has to locate the appropriate medical records and call the phone number associated with that record, can be nail-bitingly lengthy. With a nametag, the reunion can be more immediate since the person finding your pet can simply call you directly.

The best plan to safeguard your pet is to ensure that he wears his collar anytime he is outdoors or on a walk, and that his collar contains two tags: 1) his updated rabies vaccination license number and 2) his ID tag with his name, one or more updated contact phone numbers, and any other relevant information (e.g., “Reward!” / your address / “I take daily meds!” / “I love earthbath!” :) etc.). Ensure that the nametag is legible and contains current information, and replace it over time as needed.

earthbath features a “how-to” video on brushing your dog’s teeth for Pet Dental Health Month!

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011

February is Pet Dental Health Month! You might buy your pet the best organic, locally-sourced food, all-natural treats, walk him daily, and maybe even dress him in designer doggie duds, but do you also give the same level of attention to his doggie dentifrice? Most people don’t know that the most common health problem in dogs is actually periodontal disease. In fact, over 75% of all dogs show symptoms of oral disease by the time they are three! Poor dental hygiene isn’t just about “doggie breath!” In fact, bad breath shouldn’t be an acceptable norm for dogs or cats. Tooth and gum problems can become painful and serious if left untreated and could cause a whole host of health problems, even aggression. Over time, unchecked dental problems can result in plaque and bacteria build-up that can enter the bloodstream and cause serious disease in the heart, lungs, liver and kidneys.

The best thing to do is to start a dental hygiene routine as early as possible (puppies who have been raised with regular grooming, nail trimming, socializing, etc. will treat these routines like it’s no big deal, and teeth-brushing is no different), but it’s never too late to start!

Unfortunately, once periodontal disease sets in, there is no way to reverse it, although its progress can be slowed or stopped with consistent dental care. Given the unpleasant and painful nature of the symptoms of periodontal disease, including:

  • Bad breath
  • Discolored and yellow teeth
  • Swollen gums
  • Changes in behavior including:
  • Difficulty in chewing (including reluctance to chew/disinterest in toys and treats)
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Broken or missing teeth
  • Nasal and eye discharge
  • Blood in the saliva
  • Drooling

…you probably want to do all that you can to prevent the disease from taking hold, or to stop it if it’s already present. Here are the best ways to start a dental hygiene routine with your dog:

1) Brush your dog’s teeth at least once a week.

  • You can buy a special toothbrush made especially for dogs, or a soft child’s toothbrush, a finger toothbrush, a gauze pad around a finger, or a cotton swab all also do the job well.
  • Use special dog-specific toothpaste specially formulated for dogs, as this toothpaste is flavored to taste appealing to dogs, and, much like human toothpaste, also contains ingredients that continue to fight plaque formation and tooth decay long after brushing.
  • Focus on the back molars as they tend to develop plaque more quickly than frontal teeth.
  • DO NOT USE human toothpaste because human toothpaste contains foaming ingredients that can be toxic to dogs. In addition, the taste of human toothpaste, baking soda, or salt are all unpalatable to dogs and could upset their tummies or create an allergic reaction.

Here’s a handy 5 minute how-to video by the American Veterinary Medical Association on how to brush your dog’s teeth. It’s so easy!

2) Feed a good quality, excellent dry dog food, without the wheat and corn that can act like decay-causing sugar to the teeth. Dry dog food also acts like mini scrubbies that brush away plaque and tartar, whereas wet dog food creates sticky tartar formation. If you feed wet food to your dog, make sure that the majority of his diet is made up of dry food.

3) Give your dog dental chew toys and bones like knobby toys, rope toys and flossy toys – all of which help to scrape plaque and tartar off of the teeth. Pork skin is also a great choice as it is more digestible and nutritional than rawhide but still scrapes off tartar very effectively.

4) Just as you get yearly dental check-ups, make sure your dog also gets a yearly dental exam by the vet. Most vets actually honor Pet Dental Health month and offer specials on teeth checkups and cleanings during February!

Love your pet but sick of sneezing? Shed those allergies!

Tuesday, February 1st, 2011

If you have pets but are also plowing through a jumbo multi-pack of Kleenex on a daily basis, you’re not alone. Over ten million Americans (many of whom are also pet owners) suffer from pet allergies. This means that there are a lot of people out there sneezing, itching, breaking out in hives,  and coughing every time they go near a dog or cat.  Though many conventional doctors will say: if you know you are allergic to _x_ (whether it be cats, dogs, peanuts, pollen, or feathers), then avoid __x__! For many allergic animal lovers, this form of “treatment” is out of the question. As one of these people myself, who has been horribly allergic to cats my whole life, but then adopted one lovable furball, and then another (for good measure), I paid as much attention to my doctor’s suggestion to “get rid of the allergen-producing stimulus [AKA: my cats]” as I would have if she would have said to give up my own children.

So, what did I do? Research. And then I took action. And I’m happy to say that I’ve lived over 10 years, nearly allergy-free, with my two cats, and have subsequently acquired two very furry, fluffy, dander-producing dogs within the last year.

I’m happy to share the fruits of my research labors and the steps I took to help my allergies with you, in the hopes that I may help prevent an unnecessary pet surrender to an animal shelter following the discovery that someone in the family is “allergic” to him.

The first thing to arm yourself with is knowledge. Most people think that pet allergies are caused by animal hair, thinking that the shorter haired dogs or cats may be better choices for those prone to allergies, but this is not actually the case (and the cause of many animal surrenders, following an ill- or non-informed adoption).  Pet allergies are actually the result of an inappropriate immune response to molecules that are secreted by oil glands, found in the saliva, and shed with dander (dead skin cells). Cat allergies are particularly intense because cats have a certain protein (known as Fel-D-1) in their saliva, which is the substance that most people who are allergic to pets react to.  The cat hair is a carrier for the dander and saliva (since cats clean themselves frequently by licking) because this particular allergen in cat saliva dries on the fur and then becomes airborne, ready to irritate nasal passages and your eyes!

Now what to do about preventing those allergens from getting to you…

1) HEPA Filters! Though somewhat pricey at first, these HEPA filter products in air purifiers and vacuums absolutely work. Vacuums with HEPA filters trap up to 99.9% of allergy-causing dander and dust mites. But remember to clean the filters and replace regularly! Other kinds of vacuums simply suck up the debris, and then spew it all out the back, in finer particles. Take a look at what happens the next time you vacuum with a non-HEPA vacuum, seriously. It’s gross.

2) Keep your bedroom pet-free. Ok, this one is hard, and I admit to ruling with this “no cats in the bed” iron fist for the first year I had my first cat, but then succumbed. When the second one came along, there was nowhere else to put her in my two-room apartment during the sensitive and slow “introduction period” between the two cats: They both needed their own space, after all! Once our second cat was “raised” from kittenhood in the bedroom, she never left. And of course, the other cat couldn’t then be excluded… how fair would that be?!

So if you can’t (or don’t want to) totally ban your pets from your bed, at least see #1 and buy an air purifier for your bedroom, and change the filter regularly. You can also encase your mattress and pillows in protective covers designed to prevent dust mites, dander, and other allergens from penetrating these porous materials. Ensure you wash your bedding at least once a week in hot water (or your washer’s “sanitize” setting, if you have a fancy new washing machine) to kill dust mites and eliminate allergens. Even if you don’t think that you have a dust mite allergy, they, or more specifically, their waste droppings (I know, TMI, but some necessary “I”!) are the cause of many problems including sinus infections, watery eyes and noses, rashes, eczema, and other respiratory ailments. Dust mites live off of dead skin cells (i.e. dander) shed from humans and pets, and they make their homes in mattresses, couches, and other cushy, warm places like pillows and carpets.  Because a typical used mattress may have up to ten million dust mites living in it, and a pillow that is only two years old can be composed of up to ten percent dust mite feces and carcasses (ewwwww!!), it’s also a good idea to get new bedding and pillows frequently.

3) Bathe your pets regularly and use wipes daily between baths! Grooming your dog or cat frequently, including brushing, using waterless grooming foams, and earthbath wipes washes off the dander on its fur. Bathing your pet also has another benefit: the primary reason for vet visits is due to skin problems from environmental allergies, which can be helped and even prevented by frequent baths with a mild, non-soap based cleanser, like the formulations found in the entire line of earthbath’s shampoos! We know that cats, in particular, don’t love bathtime, so here is where our wipes especially come in handy! They usually don’t mind a wipe-down, and generally, love to be brushed, both of which significantly reduce allergy-causing dander. Best, though, if someone with lesser or no allergies does the brushing.

4) Clean your house! Perhaps this one is a bit obvious, but dander, dust, and dust mites that are allowed to gather on furniture, in cracks and crevices, around the knick knacks and books are all going to contribute to the generally poor and allergy-producing condition of your interior environment. And no matter how much you vacuum, carpets are the worst at trapping large amounts of allergens, so to the degree you can replace the majority of your floor surfaces with mop-able hardwood floors, tiles, or even linoleum, the better off you’ll be. Other cleaning tips include

  • Vacuum carpets and furniture on a daily basis.
  • Vacuum curtains on a regular basis.
  • Dust with a microfiber cloth that picks up the dust and doesn’t just move it around.
  • Wipe down all surfaces on a weekly basis.

Long ago, my doctor actually told me to vacuum daily and mop as often as I could (daily if possible), and to be sure to mop the walls. Vacuum and mop DAILY? Mop the WALLS?! My solution: I hired a cleaning person. Works for me, and my four animals!  No more allergies and a side benefit – my house is spotless!

New Year’s Resolutions: Doggy- and Kitty-Style!

Tuesday, January 4th, 2011

Whether or not you’re the type to make New Year’s resolutions, you probably have a few that you’d like your furry family member(s) to make (and keep)! Here are some (humorous) ideas to get you started! Let’s add to the list – Share yours with us!

A Dog’s New Year’s Resolutions (2011):

I will not roll in dead bird, chipmunk, squirrel carcasses.

Though oddly irresistible, I will not eat other dogs’ poop.

Though it’s a perfect example of “waste not, want not,” I will not eat my own vomit.

I will not bark each time I hear a doorbell on TV.

I will not bark for no apparent reason (to my humans) between the hours of 4:30 a.m. and 7:30 a.m.

I will not run headlong into the yard after a bath and roll in the mud to wash away the Mango Tango scent my mom loves to bathe me in.

I will shake the rain out of my fur BEFORE entering the house.

The cat is not my playtoy to chase.

A Cat’s New Year’s Resolutions:

I will not chew on my human’s toothbrush and not tell them.

I will not help myself to Q-tips, and I must not leave them under bath mats for the guests to find.

I will stop vomiting on my humans’ brand new leather couch, designer shag area rug, or cashmere pillows instead of the concrete or wood floors, washable cat beds or blankets, or any number of old towels laying around.

I will not drop dead mice on my human’s pillow as a present anymore.

I will not sit on my human’s chest in the middle of the night and stare creepily into her eyes until she wakes up.

I will not stalk and pounce (claws-out) on my humans’ toes under the blankets while they’re trying to sleep.

I will stop doing my best Pet Sematary cat impression by chasing the new puppies across the house, hissing and growling like a feral wildcat, clawing wildly at their eyes.

I will not “play dead” on the stairs while people are trying to bring up groceries or laundry, or else one of these days, it will actually come true.

When my human is working on her laptop, her forearms are *not* a personal cat-hammock.

Winter weather pet prep!

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

Winter’s here and that means taking extra precautions to keep yourself safe, dry, and warm – inside and out, driving and at home. Along with ensuring your tires are all-weather, your stock of batteries and candles is flush, and your furnace has been serviced, your pets also need some extra-special attention to ensure they are comfortable and safe throughout the harsh winter ahead, no matter where you may be living (Florida and Southern Cali residents aside…)!

Check out our quick-and-dirty winter weather pet preparation tips below!

First, what kind of pet do you have? If you’ve got a Siberian Husky, your winter weather considerations are going to be very different than if you’ve got a greyhound. If you have a large, double-coated dog that has been “bred” for the harsh northen climates like the Alaskan Malamute, Husky, Keeshond, Samoyed, Chow-Chow, or one of these other cold-climate-loving dogs, you may swear you’ve never seen your dog happier as when he’s bounding through the raging winter blizzard, the wind whipping his fur from his face. However, many people mistakenly believe that dogs are “fine” if left outside, and do so, to the great discomfort and displeasure of their dogs. We’re here to tell you: leaving your dogs outside all day and/or night is not good for them, and certainly not in the winter. All pets need shelter from the elements and insulation against cold weather.  No animal should be left outside for long periods in freezing or inclement weather – just like humans, they can suffer from hypothermia and frostbite. Puppies and senior pets are particularly at risk for health problems.  Even though certain breeds, like those mentioned above, are well suited to very cold temperatures and snow conditions, the majority of dogs aren’t, and rely upon your help, as their caregiver, to keep them warm and protected.  If you can’t keep your dog inside the house for some reason, then ensure your dog has its own shelter in an area protected from wind, rain, and snow with plenty of insulating materials like blankets, towels, and straw to help them maintain body heat.

Fresh water is a must at all times, even in snowy or rainy conditions! Pets are not able to get enough water from licking ice or eating snow, and it’s always best for your pets to drink clean, fresh (not puddle) water. Keep in mind that pets kept predominantly outside require additional food for energy and maintaining body heat during the winter, in harsh climates.

Don’t use a heat lamp, space heater, or other device not approved for use with animals. These are both a fire hazard as well as a burn hazard for your pets.  Pet supply vendors sell heated mats for pets to sleep on or to be placed under a dog house, but read and follow directions carefully before using.

Protect those paws! You wouldn’t want to walk miles through ice and snow without boots… and even though your dog’s paws are a bit tougher than the soles of your feet, dogs can get large ice balls between their pads, causing pain and limping. Make sure you examine their paws and remove ice from the fur between their pads. It can be hard to remove these ice balls, so for dogs that have a lot of hair that grows between the pads, keeping it clipped shorter will help curb the formation of ice balls.  Also, salt and chemical de-icers on sidewalks are hugely irritating to paws. They can cause dry, chapped, and  painful feet, not to mention stomach upset when your pet tries to lick the irritant off.  Keep this in mind when you walk your dog on sidewalks that have been salted or de-iced and make sure to clean his paws with a warm washcloth – or, even better - earthbath wipes - when you come inside. If your dog will tolerate foot gear, dog boots are the best foot protection (as well as a floor-saver) in cold or rainy weather.

Protect those joints and ligaments! Just like their human companions, pets too can slip and fall on icy sidewalks and streets. Even if they don’t fall, dogs are prone to injuries such as sprains or tears in the cruciate ligament, behind the knee, if they “skate” and do the icy slip-and-slide!

Keep your dog on a short leash in the winter! Rather, ensure you keep a close eye on your pup if you let her off leash to frolic in the snow, or else never let her off leash if you can help it, unless she’s in the safety of your fenced-in yard. Dogs lose their sense of smell  in extremely cold weather and can become lost. Unfortunately, winter is the season for most lost dogs!

Antifreeze is fatally toxic to dogs - and apparently, delicious. Lock up any antifreeze containers and clean up spills immediately. Don’t let your dogs anywhere near antifreeze – in your house or parking lots. Be especially cautious when walking your dogs if they stop to lick anything on the street or in any driveways: just a few licks of antifreeze can be fatal.

Provide some extra TLC to older and arthritic animals: Just as in humans, arthritis and joint pain gets worse during cold and damp weather. Handle your pet gently, try to prevent your senior cat from jumping up to and down from high places, provide soft (and possibly heated) bedding, and consult your veterinarian if your pet seems like he is in pain or is moving with less agility.

Cats love warm car engines… which could spell disaster if you start your car without ensuring there isn’t a slumbering cat under your hood. If you suspect that your car is a favored sleeping spot for your or any other neighborhood cat, knock on the hood or honk the horn before starting your engine to scare away any cats.

What are your favorite winter-weather pet tips? We’d love to hear from you!