Archive for the ‘earthbath’ Category

Stress-busters for dogs

Wednesday, February 15th, 2012
Destructive stress based behavior in dogs

We all take out stress one way or another... read on to prevent THIS from happening to you!

In a recent post, we wrote about the most commonly observed symptoms of stress in dogs, to which you might rightly be thinking: “Yeah… thanks for leaving me hanging. So now that I’ve identified that my dog is a bona fide stress-case, what do I do about it?!”

And right on cue, we’ve got a follow-up post to answer this very question, in order to address the more important issue here: how you can help soothe the anxiety in your little furry worrywart!

One thing that should help put your mind at ease when you consider your dog’s general mental state: Dogs are masters of living in the moment, so any scary or otherwise negative past experiences can be quickly forgotten, as long as you use consistent and calm training methods going forward.

Of course, if the stress is manifesting in fear-based aggression or other uncontrollable and scary behaviors, and/or there is a history of prior abuse or lack of socialization, it’s best to consult a veterinarian as well as a professional dog behaviorist to help with these more serious and deep rooted problems.

Problem: General, nonspecific anxiety and separation anxiety:
Solution: Ensuring that your dog gets regular exercise and mental stimulation can help with many different types of anxiety and fears. Try to stick to a consistent daily exercise routine, where your dog can expect one or two daily walks or runs at about the same time each day. Dogs are creatures of habit and also masters of time, so they’ll quickly come to anticipate their daily outing with you, which will help take their mind off of any separation anxiety or other concerns that may be on their mind.  A great time to go for a walk is before you leave for work, as the exercise will help tire out your dog, both mentally and physically, and settle her down for a nice nap in your absence. Similarly, rewarding your return home with a walk, run, or play time is also something the dog will learn to associate with your absence, rather than a general, nonspecific sadness, loneliness, and anxiety in being separated from you. We’ve also learned through neuroscience research that exercise is a natural mood-booster, through raising serotonin levels in the brain: thus, a 30-60 minute daily or twice-daily walk will help to relieve stress levels for both of you!

Environmental enrichment is also important to keeping your dogs calm and happy. You might think your dog is perfectly content to lay around all day on your couch, but the truth is that dogs weren’t meant to be couch potatoes, and this sloth-like activity will end up creating anxiety and boredom in your dog, manifesting in behaviors you’d probably rather not witness. Feeding your dog through puzzle toys will amuse him, challenge his mental skills, and will also help with weight control by slowing their rate of eating. Water fountains are entertaining for both cats and dogs, especially those that turn their nose up at “stale” water in bowls! Finally fresh air and sunshine are good for everyone’s mood, cats, dogs, and humans alike. Make sure your dog gets enough “outside time” each day, and can also look out the window so it can observe the world going by.

Problem: Loud noises
Solution: Desensitization
: Noise phobia can be traced to a specific initial bad experience of a startling noise or event, but more likely than not, the origination of the noise phobia is unknown. Where one dog cowers at every thunderclap, another dog might be able to sleep through an entire fireworks show. But gradual desensitization to the noise can help extinguish a stress response over time. For instance, dogs that get stressed by thunder storms can benefit from listening to recordings of thunder. In order to effectively desensitize the dog to the noise, first play the recording at a very low volume for brief periods while distracting the animal with a chew toy, puzzle game, or game of fetch while playing the recording. Watch for signs of stress and turn off the recording when you see any anxiety manifesting. Keep this up until the animal displays little to no response to the recording, and then gradually increase the volume, rewarding the dog with games and treats all while the recording is playing, until the dog no longer pays attention to the noise. With lots of practice, eventually the fear will disappear thanks to this well-documented behavior modification technique.

In addition, keep in mind that your own anxiety levels can influence your dog’s anxiety levels. If your dog senses that you’re upset by a novel noise or stimulus, he will think there is something to really be afraid of. Likewise, if he senses calm from you, he’ll be reassured that there’s nothing to fear.

Similarly, lots of owners try to comfort their fearful dogs by holding them, cooing to them and generally encouraging the behavior, even unwittingly. The dog interprets this kind of response as confirmation that there really is something to be afraid of, and also sees it as a positive reinforcement for their reaction.

Non-prescription calming products including natural herbal formulas that contain valerian and chamomile (Ultra-Calm® Bites) and the homeopathic Bach’s Flowers Rescue Remedy also work very well in some dogs. A new product on the market, Pheromone Plug-Ins, claims to release “Dog Appeasing Pheromones” into the air that reduces and prevents stress-related behaviors such as barking, whining, chewing, and soiling through “mimicking a new mother’s natural pheromones.” We haven’t tested it out, so can’t claim its effectiveness, but it’s on the market in case you want to try it!

Problem: New people, visitors, and children terrify my dog.
Solution: Consistent socialization and “desensitization to children practice”. Most dogs view any new people in their territory as intruders: unwelcome and possibly threatening, until proven otherwise. By the very nature of being children, with a boundless store of energy, rapid, unpredictable movement, loud noises, and small dog-like stature, children are typically the most threatening “people” to many dogs. Dogs that aren’t used to children or visitors may either act shy, go into hiding, bark incessantly, or even growl and become aggressive. The best way to deal with this is to socialize your dog to children and strangers. But don’t expect an overnight miracle. This takes consistent and persistent effort over a period of several weeks or even months.

Consider trying the following:

First, have one person come over that your dog knows and likes. Have this person come to your door, ring the doorbell, and give your dog a treat and quietly pet the dog. Then have several people the dog knows all come over at once, so he’ll get used to a group. (Consider throwing a party for your dog; i.e. only invite people over that your dog knows and likes, but may not necessarily have greeted all at one time in your home). If this works well, next time you throw your “get to know my dog” party, add one person that your dog doesn’t know, all the while praising him and giving him treats when he shows good behavior with guests. A third time, add a child to the mix, and eventually: more children until the dog is familiar and calm around any group, whether they are made up of adults and/or children.

Always supervise children with dogs. They can be unpredictable, which can unleash unpredictable behavior in your otherwise predictable dog.

Problem: Separation anxiety
Solution: Unfortunately, the solution for separation anxiety varies depending on the severity of the anxiety. A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. Separation anxiety can manifest in behaviors that range from initial whining, pacing, salivation, barking, and howling, to the more destructive scratching, chewing, digging, or even urinating and defecating, to destroying personal items or household objects. For milder cases, try:

  • More exercise – Go for more walks and play fetch in the yard more often. Tired dogs are naturally less stressed out.
  • Leave and return calmly - This teaches your dogs that it’s no big deal that you’re leaving: you’ll return, and both are unexciting events.
  • Practice with short departures – This is teaching your dogs to become desensitized to your absence. Stage several short departures and arrivals throughout the day, gradually lengthening each absence as your dog adjusts.
  • Give them an activity – Many owners will leave their dogs with a Kong or similar “puzzle” type toy, filled with their kibble or peanut butter, or a favorite bone or chewie, so that the dog will be so preoccupied with their “task” – and getting rewarded the entire time – that they won’t have even noticed that you left. Chewing is also a stress-reliever for dogs.
  • Non-prescription stress reduction products – As discussed above, the herbal supplements and pheromone plug-ins can be used in your absence to help calm your dogs down generally and help them adapt to your absence with a minimum of anxiety.

Problem: Vet-related anxiety or travel
Solution: Treats, a vet your dog likes, and Bach Flowers. Unfortunately, since going to the vet is such a rare occurrence (hopefully), it doesn’t really make sense to employ desensitizing techniques for the vet’s office. The best you can do is to try to find a veterinary office that is calm, quick, and gets you and your dog in and out with a minimum of waiting, and a maximum of kindness, calmness, and love. Many people do administer homeopathic stress-reduction extracts to their dog’s water or a few drops just under their tongue prior to a visit to the vet or a long journey that could be stressful for the dog. For truly stressful experiences, like a plane ride, consult with your vet on the best type of calming supplements and potentially anxiety-reducing medications to use.

Do you really have to brush your dog’s teeth?

Wednesday, February 8th, 2012
dog dental health

Here's a happy dog that's proud to show off his bright pearly whites!

It’s that time of year again… February is here and that means it’s another month to talk about the importance of your pet’s dental health!

…I can hear the groans from here. And believe me, I get it. I think just about every dog owner would be lying if they said they were truly diligent about brushing and flossing their own teeth regularly, let alone brushing their dog’s teeth. As if there wasn’t already enough to do in the day, right?!

But there are some pretty important reasons why you shouldn’t ignore that “doggy” breath. It doesn’t have to be the norm that dogs have terrible breath; in fact, bad breath is usually a sign of a more serious health problem, ranging from rotting teeth and periodontal disease, to potentially life-threatening diseases in the heart, lungs, liver, and kidneys.

How can a lack of pearly whites cause heart disease, you ask? It’s a valid question: the two don’t seem like they’d be at all related. But over time, the plaque and bacteria build-up on the teeth can enter the bloodstream and travel to the most critical organs in the body and lodge there, creating disease.

Most people don’t know that the most common health problem in dogs is actually gum disease. In fact, over 75% of all dogs show symptoms of this oral disease by the time they are three years old! And unfortunately, once periodontal disease sets in, there is no way to completely reverse it. The upside to this somewhat alarming statistic and statement is that oral disease is both a preventable health problem, and one that can be slowed or stopped with vigilant care once you notice it sets in. And as always, with problems like these, the sooner, the better.

If you’ve actually started a dental hygiene program for your puppy, our hats go off to you. You’re more vigilant about your dog’s dental health than 98% of the population, including veterinarians (we checked: out of all of the vets we asked, not a one replied that they brushed their dogs’ teeth daily… though all admitted sheepishly that they know they “should” and they still recommend the practice to their patients)!

If you’re unsure how periodontal disease manifests, we’ve listed the symptoms below, from least to most severe indicating the increasing progression of the disease. Since this month is all about pet dental health awareness, take some time this month to check your dog for:

  • Bad breath
  • Discolored and yellow teeth
  • Swollen gums
  • Drooling
  • Blood in the saliva
  • Broken or missing teeth
  • Nasal and eye discharge

Changes in behavior including:

  • Difficulty in chewing (including reluctance to chew/disinterest in toys and treats)
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weight loss

EASY things you can do to ensure your lovable canines have nothing but healthy and strong canines and molars include:

Feeding a good quality, excellent dry dog food, without the wheat and corn that can act like decay-causing sugar to the teeth. Dry dog food also acts like mini scrubbies that brush away plaque and tartar, whereas wet dog food creates sticky tartar formation. If you feed wet food to your dog, make sure that the majority of his diet is made up of dry food.

Giving your dog dental chew toys and bones like knobby toys, rope toys and flossy toys – all of which help to scrape plaque and tartar off of the teeth. Pork skin is also a great choice as it is more digestible and nutritional than rawhide but still scrapes off tartar very effectively.

Making a yearly dental exam appointment (for the two of you, while you’re at it!). Most vets actually honor Pet Dental Health month and offer specials on teeth checkups and cleanings during February! Ask your vet’s office about this today!

And, ideally, of course… you’ll be:

Brushing your dog’s teeth at least once a week. Once you get into this habit, and incorporate it into his weekly brushing/grooming routine, it won’t take much time at all.

  • Use a special toothbrush made especially for dogs, a soft child’s toothbrush, a finger toothbrush, a gauze pad around a finger, or even a cotton swab.
  • Use special dog-specific toothpaste specially formulated for dogs, as this toothpaste is flavored to taste appealing to dogs, and, much like human toothpaste, also contains ingredients that continue to fight plaque formation and tooth decay long after brushing.
  • Focus on the back molars as they tend to develop plaque more quickly than frontal teeth.
  • DO NOT USE human toothpaste because human toothpaste contains foaming ingredients that can be toxic to dogs. In addition, the taste of human toothpaste, baking soda, or salt are all unpalatable to dogs and could upset their tummies or create an allergic reaction.

Keep smiling!

Do you know the most common symptoms of stress in dogs? Read our list, and relax!

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012
stress anxiety in dogs

This little Frenchie looks totally anxiety-stricken about... something (can't get up on the table?)!

If your dogs are stressed out, at best, you’ll notice some behavioral clues that they’re feeling anxious and/or fearful, ranging from panting and excessive yawning, to its worst, acute diarrhea, vomiting, or even aggressive acts like lunging at other dogs or people.  Because every dog is different, and every dog reacts differently to different kinds of stressors, it’s important to know your dog and what his “trigger-stressors” are, in order to help minimize or even prevent the stress from occurring. But the initial stress signals dogs give off are actually difficult for most people to recognize as indicators of anxiety.

Unfortunately, pet stressors lurk around every corner and what totally freaks out one dog doesn’t even cause another to raise an eyebrow. Pets can get stressed by things as small as unfamiliar noises and weather changes to larger stressors like absences, a disruption in routine, or a stranger in the home.  Typically, though, these stresses can be soothed by a calm manner from you, a regular routine, and the assurance that all is well (or will be soon). But if not calmed, and if the stressor remains, or gets worse, the dog just gets more and more anxious, which can result in illness, sensitization to the stressor (meaning that the next time it’s encountered, it will take less of it or a lower threshold of it to cause upset), or fear-based aggression.

The following behaviors – exhibited through almost every visible body part, are obvious signs that your dog is feeling anxious. The more signals you observe occurring together, the more stressed your dog is. In addition, there is an escalating scale of behaviors that correspond to escalating anxiety/fear. We’ve grouped the most common stress responses by body part, and in escalating order of severity.

Eyes:

Blinking and squinting: Unlike cats, for whom deliberate eye blinking is a way of communicating their extreme pleasure with you, to you, dogs who deliberately blink and/or squint are signaling that they’re mildly stressed.

Turning away and avoiding eye contact: The dog is communicating: “I’m stressed out by this person/this dog/this environment and I would like to remove myself from the situation.” I see this in my dog whenever there’s a stranger in the house: he alternates between barking at the person, then immediately turning away, whenever the person tries to come closer or extend a hand in peaceful friendship. My dog wants none of it!

Staring: The universal sign of aggression in the animal kingdom, the pointed, unblinking stare is an invitation to fight, or for the other animal to back down and flee. If you observe two dogs staring each other down, an aggressive encounter is likely to occur.

Ears:

Low ear carriage: Most people don’t really pay attention to their dogs’ ears. But, with the exception of floppy-eared dogs, which are always carried low, if your dogs are carrying their ears at a lower level than normal, they are feeling some mild stress from something in their environment. You can have fun testing this one out the next time you notice your dogs’ ears lowering: scan the environment and remove the perceived stressor, or remove the dog from the environment and take note of the response: if you see ears raise, then you’ve protected your dog from stress and this will increase the trust and bond with your dog.

Mouth/Tongue:

Yawning: Yawning doesn’t often mean boredom or sleepiness, but is really the first level response to a mild stressor. The act of yawning itself is stress relieving and helps a dog release some of the anxiety that’s building up internally. When comparing different kinds of yawns, a yawn in an inappropriate environment or context (in public, at the vet’s office, around people, etc.) is likely due to stress as opposed to a relaxed and languorous yawn after just waking up. Stress-yawns also come with facial muscle tension, and also look exaggerated.

Lip-licking and Panting: If you see your dog’s tongue darting in and out of his mouth quickly (like a little lizard), and/or panting, this is a sign that your dog is experiencing stronger stress.

Drooling: Newfoundlands, Basset Hounds, and Saint Bernards aside, drooling can be an extreme sign of stress, for dogs that don’t typically drool. One of my dogs has ropes of drool streaming out behind him any time we take him to a new dog park. It’s clear that he’s conflicted: he is stressed out with the unfamiliar environment, but at the same time loves the opportunity to run off leash and potentially make new friends.

Breath and Vocalizing:

Coughing and/or Sneezing: Like yawning, blinking, and panting, coughing and sneezing are the body’s way of releasing pent-up stress or confusion in an unfamiliar situation.

Huffing and Puffing: Huffing, puffing, or (in our house) “chuffing” is when the dog rapidly exhales a small amount of air, that sounds like a cross between an exhale and a bark. It’s a form of stress relief, and can also be a precursor to escalating aggressive behaviors.

Holding Breath: It can be hard to notice if a dog is holding his or her breath, but when a dog does, it’s typically a warning sign to beware potential aggression. The dog is gearing up for a fight.

Barking/Growling: The most recognizable form of stress: though there are a wide variety of barks, each with its own specific message to communicate, they all indicate the need to relieve stress. You will probably recognize your dog’s individual barks and growls, each of which is associated with some “stressor” or another:

  • “I’m lonely! Come play with me”
  •  “There’s an intruder approaching! Warning! Warning!”
  • “Don’t come closer… or else!”
  • “I’m bored.”
  • “Don’t leave me!”
  • “Stay away! I’m one bark away from snapping at you!”

Learn more about the meaning of dog barks and test your ability to “speak dog” here!

Tail:

Slow tail wag: Contrary to the windshield-wiper like fast wagging tail of a happy dog, a slow tail wag is an indicator of lack of confidence and wariness.

Tail tucked between legs: This is a classic fear-signal, and in a dog, feeling fearful is an extreme form of stress that can lead to potentially dangerous situations like fear-biting.

Digestion/Elimination:

Urination/Marking: Just because a dog is male doesn’t mean he necessarily has to mark everything in sight. Typically, excessive marking is a way that male dogs alleviate their stress (even if the stress is as simple as: “There’s been another dog here! I want to let other dogs know I was the last one here! I own this fire hydrant!”).

Not eating/not taking treats. If your dog is typically food-motivated (and what dog isn’t?), not taking a treat, even if it’s their favorite kind, is a sign that something else in the environment is too distracting and worrisome for them. Think about the fight/flight response: if an animal is concerned about needing to either flee from a predator or defend their territory, eating is the LAST thing on its mind. Eating only happens when an animal is truly relaxed and comfortable in the environment.

Diarrhea: It’s very common for dogs and cats to have acute diarrhea when they are stressed out, typically due to an upset in their routine. Just about every time we go away and have to leave the dogs, they respond by having diarrhea, to the understandable chagrin of our pet-sitter.

Whole-Body:

Shaking Off (like the dog is shaking off water): Similar to yawning, panting, and drooling, shaking off is a dog’s body’s way of physically releasing any tension that’s building up inside. “Shake it off” is completely literal in this case!

Pacing: Do you have a Woody Allen-like dog? If so, he probably paces when he gets worried or anxious. A lot of dogs pace when they are anticipating their owners’ return after a long day home alone.

Shedding: Dogs and cats involuntarily shed much more when they are stressed out: it’s part of the body’s natural defense mechanism. This is why you typically return home from the vet entirely covered in fur!

Trembling: If your dog isn’t cold, trembling is a sign of extreme stress or fear. One of my dog trembles like a leaf if she’s been in the car more than about 30 minutes. I suspect she gets carsick. As soon as we stop the car and let her out for a bit, the trembling stops.

Spacing out or falling asleep: Again, similar to humans, if the anxiety is simply unbearable, some dogs will simply shut down, zone out, and fall asleep to avoid the stress. These dogs are much more comfortable in “flight” mode than “fight” mode. And sleep is typically a great cure for stress! It’s why my other dog goes right to sleep in the car after 30 minutes… I suspect it upsets him too, but he deals with it by zoning out and shutting down!

Not playing. Like eating, playing only happens when the animal feels totally comfortable, happy, and relaxed. The first time I ever took my dogs to a dog park, they acted completely different from the way they act now when they just hear the words “Dog Park!” The first time they were exposed to that new environment, populated with more dogs than they’d ever seen before, they ran in, tucked their tails any time another dog tried to sniff them, ran away from other dogs, panted and drooled profusely, and yawned a lot. All major signs of stress, which were alleviated when we moved into the shy/small dog area as a slow introduction to the bigger dog park world. For more on introducing your dogs to a dog park, see our related post on dog park etiquette!

Stiffness and Raised Hair/Hackles: Typically exhibited as a warning sign to “back off!,” a dog that’s standing stock still and also staring intently, with its hair bristling is a sure sign that the dog is not happy with its situation and wants the offending dog/animal/person to back away and leave him alone!

Lunging: The last “warning sign” that the dog is feeling threatened and stressed out, before true damage is done through an all-out attack or bite. Hopefully, you’ll have identified, and removed, the stressor to your dog long before he gets to this level of upset.

Winter Paw Care: How To Protect Your Dog’s Feet

Monday, January 16th, 2012
Dog Paws Winter Care

"Give me five!" Make sure to keep those paws happy and healthy!

Results from a recently released study conducted by Japanese scientists at Tokyo’s Yamazaki Gakuen University suggest that dogs have special blood vessels in their feet that actually help protect them from the effects of snow and ice. The researchers propose a mechanism that they’ve termed a “counter-current heat exchange:” when a paw is cooled by contact with frozen ground, warmth from the arteries in the paw is transferred to the vessels in the paws which helps to keep the paw at a tolerable temperature. Of course, pads contain a lot of fatty tissue, which doesn’t freeze as easily as other kinds of tissue. In addition, the special blood vessels in the pads warm the blood before it flows back to the body – thus helping keep the dog’s body temperature from falling uncomfortably low.

Even though systems like this are seen in other animals, including penguins and foxes, many earthbath fans vehemently disagree with the thought that all dogs are cold-weather proof:

“Apparently, my pugs are lacking these vessels- one sniff of the cold air and they about face into the house. Then once outside they continually pick up alternate feet to avoid the frozen feet feeling.”

“Many short-haired dogs will not last more than 10 minutes in -35C before they start crying in pain and hopping about from foot to foot or leaving bits of skin frozen to the sidewalk.”

…and we too, have seen many dogs unhappily affected by the cold. Which brings us to our main point: take care of those little puppy paws in the winter months! We’ve got some easy tips for you to ensure that everyone is comfortable, even when the snow is blowing and the wind chill is dropping.

  • Trim the hair between the pads and around the feet to minimize the clinging of ice balls, salt crystals and de-icing chemicals that can dry on the skin.  Find a video on how to trim your dog’s paw hair at the bottom of this post.
  • After walks, use a basin of warm water and earthbath wipes to clean off stinging, irritated paws. After each walk, ensuring that your pet’s feet are washed and dried to remove ice, salt and chemicals will help make sure they stay comfortable and dry.
  • Check for cracks in paw pads or redness between the toes, and if you see signs of irritation or dryness, massage in a little SheaPet Aloe and Shea Butter Treatment Balm to soothe those toes. Just as with human skin, moisturizing after a walk through the ice and snow will always help prevent chapped paws. Best not to use petroleum jelly or other potentially toxic-when-ingested lubricating agents, as dogs like to lick their paws!
  • Booties help minimize contact with painful salt crystals, poisonous anti-freeze and chemical ice-melting agents. They can also help prevent sand and salt from getting lodged in between bare toes and pads, causing irritation.
  • Make sure to use pet-friendly ice melts whenever possible, even though you can’t control what your neighbors or your city uses on sidewalks and streets.
  • And remember, if the weather’s too cold for you, it’s probably too cold for your dog. Animal companions should remain indoors as much as possible during the winter months.

The importance of winter grooming: follow our four tips!

Friday, January 6th, 2012
a happy winter dog is a healthy groomed winter dog

Raindrops on roses and snowflakes on noses... keep your dog happily groomed this winter!

There’s a common misconception that dogs don’t need to be groomed, or only groomed minimally, over the winter months. The (erroneous) belief is that a dog’s winter coat comes in and should be allowed to grow long to protect and warm the dog. In addition, because dogs, like humans, often follow a more sedentary and inside routine in the winter, many people feel that their dogs aren’t getting dirty enough to warrant bathing. But this is simply not true. In fact, in many ways, grooming over the winter months becomes even more important to the health of your dog than at any other time of the year. Long, wet, matted hair easily makes a cold, wet, and infection-susceptible dog.

While it’s true that double-coated breeds and others with thick, long fur are more winter-ready than short-haired dogs, the “blessing” of these thick coats in winter can turn quickly into a curse if the fur isn’t maintained in a healthy condition. Fur that’s matted doesn’t insulate or provide warmth; instead, it provides discomfort, pain, and hot spots. Matting can even lead to infections below the skin, so when considering the effects of letting the grooming go, consider how your dog’s health may in fact suffer as a result. Grooming isn’t just for a beautiful dog (though this is obviously one noticeable effect), it’s also crucial for your dog’s good health.

Winter pitfalls to your dog’s coat and skin include:

  • Dry forced-air heat
  • Bitter, cold temperatures
  • Wind
  • Snow and ice
  • Dampness
  • Salt and sand used on streets and sidewalks

Simply follow these four grooming rituals through the winter to combat these winter blahs, and ensure that your dog stays comfortable, dry, and healthy!

  • Regular rub-downs: Any time your dog is wet, whether it’s from playing in the snow, running in the rain, or just following a bath, make sure to dry him thoroughly. In the winter this becomes especially important because your dog is just as susceptible to chills as you are. Think about being outside in freezing temperatures with a head full of wet hair: then consider that your dog doesn’t have the benefit of indoor plumbing and don’t subject him to this discomfort! In addition, your dog’s skin can become very dry and itchy when its fur isn’t dried fully combined with the excessively dry air created from indoor electric heaters.
  • Getting 100 strokes in: The most important grooming procedure at any time of year is to brush your dog’s coat regularly. Brushing helps to keep away mats and tangles, which only get worse the longer they’re allowed to stick around.  Mats and tangles prevent the distribution of the oils that naturally occur in the skin that help to condition and stimulate the skin and coat. This means an increase in dry skin, dull coat, and worse: infected hot spots. During the winter months, mats are the worst enemy to a properly maintained coat’s natural insulating qualities. A beautiful, mat-free coat helps to insulate body heat and radiates this heat back into the body, keeping a protective barrier between the dog and external cold air. Mats have a tendency to hold moisture against the skin, attracting more snow and debris, creating a perfect breeding ground for bacterial growth and infection.  As you can imagine, with the increase in damp, wet conditions in winter, it becomes even more important to police mats and eradicate them at the first opportunity. Brushing your dogs daily, even for just a few minutes, is critical in the winter.  If mats get out of control, it becomes too painful for the dog and too time-consuming for you to attempt to brush them all out, in which case, the easiest thing is to cut the entire coat short before skin and health problems develop.
  • Pooch pedicures:   Keeping your dogs’ feet in tip-top shape is very important in the winter. Throughout the year your dog’s nails naturally wear down from regular walks outside on concrete and asphalt, but in winter, most humans and dogs reduce their outdoor activities. And even if you’re still diligent about taking your dog for walks in the winter, they are probably shorter in duration, and over more snow- and ice-covered areas, so the nails will not wear down as much as they normally would. It’s very important to keep the nails trim, because if the nails grow long such that you hear “click click click” on the floor when they walk across it, this makes it difficult for them to keep their balance on ice and snow. Dogs can fall on the ice too, and we wouldn’t want that!
    It’s also important to trim your dog’s fur around their paw-pads as excess fur attracts snow and iceballs to form, creating severe discomfort and pain to your dog. Hair that accumulates in the pads can become matted, and hold moisture from rain and snow, and even pick up rock salt and ice. Which is sort of like waking around with rocks in wet shoes? Sounds awful, doesn’t it? If your dog tolerates it, dog-sized boots are a great option to keep out the snow, ice, salt, and sand: all harsh enemies of little puppy paws. But if your dog refuses to wear booties, the next best thing is to keep a bowl of warm water by the door and give each paw a little soak and dry after returning from any outdoor activities: the warm water easily melts away the ice and snow and any loose dirt and debris is shaken loose before it can burrow deeper.
  • Moisturizing earthbaths!: Bathing your dog regularly is one of the most important things you can do for your dog in the winter, as a clean dog is a happy, healthy dog. During the cold winter months, many of us suffer with dry, chafed, and scaly skin due to the combination of cold air, wind, and interior dry air from our forced-air heaters. Even though they’re covered with a layer of fur, our dogs also feel the drying effects of winter, so it’s even more important to use a non-drying, highly moisturizing, gentle shampoo and conditioner. The dry heat found in many homes throughout the winter season can be tough on our skin and hair, so we apply lotions and conditioners to ease the scratchiness and irritation. Your dog doesn’t need lotion, but if his little pads and nose seem irritated or cracked, SheaPet Shea Butter and Aloe Treatment Balm stops itching and soothes dry, irritated skin fast.