Archive for the ‘Fleas and Ticks’ Category

Keep clean! Answers to 5 common questions about pet skin and coat care

Friday, June 8th, 2012
dog bathing grooming

earthbath lives for cute and clean dogs, but these suds aren't good for your dog... read on to find out why!

It shouldn’t come as a surprise to hear that we’re frequently asked for tips on how to bathe our four-legged friends and which products are best for which ailments. Fortunately, we have a lot of answers!

Here are our answers to five questions we’re commonly asked about pet hygiene:

How often should I bathe my dog?
The ASPCA gives a blanket recommendation that dogs need a good bath at least once every three months. However, as with most things, one size does NOT fit all… we’re more inclined to say: “It depends!” As in, it depends on what breed of dog you have, if your dog has any specific skin sensitivities and allergies, your dog’s coat type, what season it is, your dog’s activity level (which may vary based on climate, season, breed, and your lifestyle…), how dirty your dog is (duh!) and of course, the kind of shampoo you use! You can be confident in bathing your dog much more frequently if you know the shampoo contains only the most gentle and pure ingredients, and has nothing in it that will irritate your dog’s skin… i.e. earthbath shampoos! For even more detail on this topic, see our blog post: “How often should I bathe my dog?”

Can’t I just use baby shampoo or some other kind of “gentle” human shampoo on my dog?
You could… but your dog won’t be happy about it, and you’ll end up regretting it! Here’s the thing: A dog’s skin has a pH that is almost as neutral as the pH of pure water. Human skin is much more acidic than a dog’s skin, so the kinds of “pH balanced” shampoos for human hair, while balanced for our more acidic skin, are very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin. In addition, the soap ingredients in human shampoos, responsible for those fluffy, bubbly suds, are also responsible for a triple skin whammy of drying, irritating, and stripping.  Over time, the soap and acidic pH of human shampoos will strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Bottom line is: Never use human shampoo on your dog. For more on what makes a quality dog shampoo, check out our article that addresses this issue in detail.

My dog has dry, flaky skin. What is the best remedy?
All natural oatmeal and aloe is recommended by veterinarians to effectively soothe skin irritation, promote healing, and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin. So earthbath came to the rescue by specially formulating our top selling Oatmeal & Aloe itch relief shampoo to address the needs of our four legged friends with dry, flaky skin. For even more itchiness, try our Tea Tree & Aloe shampoo: Tea Tree Oil has long been recognized as an effective and beneficial ointment for skin irritations, insect bites and itching and aloe vera is widely known as one of nature’s finest soothing emollients. Together, these pure, natural ingredients soothe and relieve hot spots and itchy, dried or chafed skin caused by flea bites, dandruff or other dermatitis.

How can I brighten my dog’s white coat?
A beautiful gleaming white dog is a stunning sight to behold – but unfortunately, these white coats can go from snowy white to “yellow snow” very quickly. To prevent this, or to bring back your dog’s snow-white coat, use earthbath’s Light Color Coat Brightener shampoo, containing a special selection of natural minerals (known as optical brighteners) blended with the essence of lavender to naturally brighten your dog’s white coat! In fact, this wonderfully aromatic and mild shampoo naturally brightens the coats of any dog or cat and will leave your best friend’s coat shiny, soft, plush, and smelling naturally fresh. You might be surprised to hear that some of our most devoted light coat shampoo fans are actually black dogs and multi-colored dogs! As with all of our shampoos, it’s soap-free, and won’t wash off topical flea applications.

How can I help my dog ward off fleas, mosquitoes and ticks?
Great question, no matter where you live! As we head into the summer season, it’s smart to protect your pet from these pests. Bathing your dogs and cats regularly with a good, natural shampoo is your best first line of defense against fleas and ticks. earthbath’s Orange Peel Oil Shampoo is great for flea prevention due to its concentrated citrus oil, and it also calms & relieves the itching that comes from insect bites, including mosquito bites and flea bites. In addition to thoroughly cleaning your pet, the concentrated citrus oil in this shampoo will bring out the coat’s natural highlights and generate a brilliant sheen. Orange Peel Oil is the natural oil rendered from oranges, and is very effective at killing fleas. More questions? See these comprehensive blog posts on everything you want to know about fleas, ticks, and check out our guide to natural remedies for flea prevention and flea control!casino aussie

It’s Tick Season! Keep your dog tick-free with this complete tick Q&A

Wednesday, April 11th, 2012
dog in tall grass

This dog isn't the only thing hiding in this tall grass... Ticks, anyone?

We’ve sprung into spring, and that means it’s the start of flea and tick season all around the country, to the dread of many a dog owner. We’ve researched the most common questions and veterinarian-approved answers on ticks, to ensure you’re well prepared to prevent, spot, and remove any encounter of the icky-ticky kind!

What’s the most common way a dog can pick up a tick?

Dogs generally get ticks from walking through an environment with high grass, shrubs or woods, about 18-24 inches off the ground, where ticks basically just hang out, ready to jump onto the next warm body that brushes up against it. Ticks are patient survivalists: they can live well over a year without feeding, so they can lie and wait… and wait… until the next dog/coyote/raccoon/cat or human walks by after which they dislodge from the plant material they’re hanging out on, and climb onto us: their food source.

What do ticks look like?

Ticks are larger than fleas and can vary in color from an olive green to a dark brown or black. One relatively nice thing about ticks, in comparison to fleas, is that they don’t infest dogs and households the way fleas do, but individually attach and burrow into the skin. If you really want to see what a tick looks like, or need more convincing as to why you DON’T want your dog to have a tick infestation, simply google “images of ticks on dogs” and prepare yourself for a creepy-crawly ick fest.

What is the best way to check for ticks on my dog?

Check for ticks by running your hands carefully over your dog and keeping your eye out for anything that looks like a tick! Also make sure to note any strange bumps under the fur. Gently part the fur over the bump and look for the tick attached to the skin. Don’t forget to check between the toes, behind and in the ears, in the armpits and around the base of the tail. Depending on how “established” the tick is will determine whether or not you’ll attempt to remove it yourself or take the dog right to the vet.

What kinds of illnesses can a dog get from ticks?

Ticks carry a dozen to 15 or more tick-transmitted diseases, many of which can seriously harm or even kill pets. Two of the most commonly known diseases are Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, although there are many more. Because tick-transmitted diseases can be so dangerous, it’s critical to be aware of the area that you’re living in, what kinds of ticks live in your area, what the tick season is, and generally, to inspect your dog (and yourself!) thoroughly after every walk, romp, or hike outdoors, especially if it’s through tall grasses or the woods.

Where are ticks found? Are the tick infestations worse in some areas than others?

Yes, absolutely: certain areas of the United States have more tick problems than others, and it’s also seasonally dependent, based on how cold the previous winter was. The upper Midwest and the Northeast, from Pennsylvania north, have a very serious Lyme disease tick problem. And the south central part of the United States is also known for having a horrible tick problem. Unfortunately, there are very few places in North America that are entirely free of ticks, because there are so many different kinds of ticks. The good news about this is that if you are more cautious than cavalier, you can incorporate precautionary measures and post-walk checks into your daily habit.

Is summer the only season I need to worry about ticks?

Not really. The best thing to do, regardless of where you live, is consult your veterinarian about this question as well as others including what ticks are most common to your region, what kinds of diseases they carry, and what their vegetation habitat is in your area. Many of the diseases that ticks carry are local: what one vet will warn against in Connecticut has no relevance for someone living in Utah. In addition, with respect to the seasonality of ticks, there are so many different tick species and the months are staying warmer much longer in most of the country now. Only in the most northern states and Canada, where the winters are extremely long and extremely cold, can you be assured that ticks have a shorter, rather than longer season.

Is there any medication or topical application that is effective against ticks?

Yes, there are many preventative applications on the market including flea and tick collars, topical applications and even medications that can be taken internally. The best thing to do is to consult your veterinarian for the most optimum choice for your dog.

How else can I prevent my dog from getting a tick?

  • There are many ways to prevent your dog from getting fleas and ticks, from all-natural remedies (detailed in our blog post on this topic) including certain essential oils and nutritional additives to topically-applied solutions, and even prescription pills that prevent and also kill any parasitic activity. Check with your veterinarian for the preventative that makes the most sense for your pet.
  • But the best way to prevent fleas and ticks is to keep your pet healthy! Fleas and ticks are far more likely to attach to animals with poorly maintained coats and dirty, matted fur and also animals with weak immune systems.
  • Bathing your dog and cat regularly with a good, natural shampoo is also a first line of defense against fleas and ticks. earthbath’s Orange Peel Oil Shampoo is great for parasite prevention due to its concentrated citrus oil. Orange Peel Oil is the natural oil rendered from oranges, and is also called d-Limonene. d-Limonene is registered with the Federal Environmental Protection Agency as an insecticide and is a natural but very effective method to preventing and killing fleas.
  • Also: clean up your yard! Keep the long grass, weeds, and brush in your yard to a minimum. Cut the tall grass, trim back the bushes and shrubs, then rake up all the leaf litter under the bushes. Consider that fleas and ticks are sensitive to sunlight and humidity. They both thrive in shady, cool, protected habitats under shrubs, under bushes, and under porches.
  • When out for walks, don’t go “off trail” and when you let your dog off-leash, make sure that it’s in a clear area free of tall brushes and grasses.

What’s the best way to remove a tick from my dog?

In all honesty, it’s best to go right to your vet to remove ticks unless you have a lot of experience removing ticks and feel confident in disposing of them safely.

But if getting to a veterinarian quickly isn’t a reasonable option, to remove an attached tick from your pet, start with a pair of fine-tipped tweezers.

  1. Grab the tick by the head or mouth parts right where they enter the skin. Do not grasp the tick by the body. Make sure you don’t crush the tick, which can force harmful bacteria to leave the tick and enter your pet’s bloodstream.
  2. Without jerking, pull firmly and steadily directly outward. Do not twist the tick as you are pulling.
  3. Using methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match, or alcohol will NOT cause the tick to ‘back out.’ In fact, these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound.
  4. After removing the tick, place it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks are NOT killed by flushing them down the toilet.
  5. Clean the bite wound with a disinfectant. If you want to, apply a small amount of a triple antibiotic ointment.
  6. Wash your hands thoroughly.

Under no circumstances should you use your fingers to remove or dispose of the tick. Definitely DO NOT squash the tick with your fingers: This is a sure way to transmit the disease you were trying to prevent by removing the tick!

If you have any doubts about removing the tick yourself, or are concerned about any possible aftereffects, see your veterinarian first.

When should I NOT attempt to remove a tick?

If you’ve caught the tick before it has had a chance to attach, it’s simply a matter of easily removing it and dumping it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. If it’s just started to attach itself, you can typically remove it quite easily with a pair of tweezers and a firm hand using the method described above. But if a tick has burrowed into the skin, it will create a bump: if it’s well-established, this bump can grow to the size of a grape (!), in which case a veterinarian’s expertise is needed, without a doubt.

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Spring Shedding = ‘Tis Grooming Season!

Monday, March 5th, 2012
grooming shedding blowing coat

The end result of blowing out that winter coat!

Are you noticing a lot more pet hair clinging to your clothes or tufting around the corners of your rooms? Don’t worry: you’re not alone! This just means spring is here!  And hand in hand with the rising temperatures comes the shedding of those winter coats.

It may surprise you to learn that short-haired dogs like labradors and pugs actually shed the most often and most continuously! And dogs with double coats, like a Siberian husky or Alaskan malamute usually shed once a year in the springtime (and sometimes also in the autumn) by “blowing” their coat with nature’s anticipation of the changing temperatures, which means that their fur will come out in huge chunks.

We’ve combed through (pun intended!) our library of grooming tips to help you get a handle on the flying fur this season. Read on to find out how:

1) Regular grooming: Our first tip is really a tip for the whole year: If you brush your dog regularly (which can mean anything from twice a week to every day, depending on the kind of coat your dog has and how much s/he sheds) you’ll notice much less shedding, and will also see the added benefit of a shinier coat and less matting. Brushing spreads the natural oils throughout the coat, removes dead hair that can cause mats, and makes the coat silky.

There is a huge variety of brush types available, each with special characteristics and attributes that may be more appropriate for one breed and coat-type over another. It’s up to you and perhaps some trial-and-error or the advice of your groomer or vet to find the best brush for your dog’s coat, but finding one (or a few) that you love will definitely making the grooming process more fun.

2) Bathe your dog with earthbath! You can really get a lot of dead hair out of the coat with a bath, but if you’re using harsh shampoos that contain soap, sulfates and petroleum-based parabens, you’ll run the risk of drying the coat and skin. That NEVER happens with earthbath! And the reason is that all of earthbath products contain renewable gentle coconut-based cleansers, and never contain parabens, stripping phosphates, harsh pthalates, DEA, or the synthetic dyes or perfumes that can cause irritation. Our shine-enhancing crème rinse and conditioner contains colloidal oatmeal which helps to remoisturize and soothe skin, while bringing out the coat’s natural luster and brilliance. This also won’t wash away topical flea control applications. Shampooing approximately every 6-8 weeks is a good schedule for most dogs. In addition, conditioning is critical in order to detangle and moisturize.

To ensure that your pup isn’t getting too many water-based baths, earthbath also offers waterless grooming foams that ensure easy and irritation-free grooming. Gentle sucrose-based cleansers whisk away dander, dirt, dead hair, and residual saliva, helping control shedding between baths.

3) Consider a trip to a professional groomers. Even if you typically groom your dogs yourselves, if your dog is blowing coat, or for once or twice a year “touch-ups”, a trip to the groomers could be just what you need! The professional bathing which also includes a shampoo massage and conditioning followed by drying equipment loosens a lot of hair, which then gets left behind – on the grooming table – not on your furniture (or in your bathtub)!

4) Now is the time to start a prevention program to protect your pet against fleas and ticks! Consult with your vet on finding the best product for your pet.

All of us pet owners are familiar with the sacrifices that come with the privilege of allowing a dog or cat (or a few) to share our lives. And I think we’d all agree: liberal use of the lint roller and vacuum are a small price to pay for the unconditional love and daily rewards our animal companions offer us.casino aussie

Fleas: Does your best friend have hangers-on?

Monday, September 5th, 2011
Flea Prevention, Flea and tick treatment, fleas

Don't let fleas take over your dog!

It’s among the worst fear of every pet owner: a flea infestation. You know they cause major itchies and irritation, but there are other dangers that can cross the canine-human barrier.  Fleas can trigger problems like skin irritation, allergic reactions and anemia, and are just downright disgusting, since they can also infest your house and bite the human inhabitants living there!

This is all a prelude to say: you should know the signs of fleas and ticks so you can get any infestation under control before it gets, well, out of control.

 

          Flea facts:

  • Fleas are REALLY small: about the size of a pin head.
  • They are generally dark brown or black, and they move quickly and even jump.
  • If you notice your pet is scratching excessively, especially after time outdoors or with other animals, it’s time to search for fleas.
  • Check the head, neck, groin, back legs and base of the tail first, as fleas like to hang out in these areas best.
  • Fleas do not attach to the skin (like ticks), which means they can be transferred from your dog to anywhere in the house, and spread from there. (ick!!)

    Finding and Getting Rid of Fleas:

  • On short haired dogs, run your hand against the direction of fur growth and look for tiny fast-moving specks against the skin.
  • Use a flea comb (with very fine-toothed metal tines) to search for fleas in cats and short-haired dogs:  Run the comb against the direction of growth through the fur, slowly and in sections. Rubbing petroleum jelly on the comb will make any fleas you do find stick to the comb.
  • If you’ve actually found fleas on your fur-baby, sorry, you’ve got an infestation. Now is the time to also check for fleas on your dog’s bed, rugs, or on any  soft places that he spends a lot of time.
  • Bathe your dog: to ensure you’re fully rinsing out the fleas, place a white towel beneath your dog, since fleas often fall off during the rinsing process. You can use any of earthbath’s shampoos, or else your vet may prescribe a special “flea dip” treatment to kill the infestation. Eucalyptus and Peppermint earthbath shampoo is a favorite to soothe skin irritation from flea bites.
  • To get rid of fleas in your house, thoroughly clean and vacuum any area with which your pet has had extended contact (and empty the vacuum receptacle immediately).

    Flea dirt:

  • If you’ve found black/brown dust on your dog or cat’s fur or bedding, there is a good chance this is “flea dirt,” which is the excretions fleas leave behind after they’ve had a meal of blood (hope you’re not eating while reading this!)
  • To confirm it’s flea dirt and not just dirt, wet a white paper towel, press it to the dust and if it turns reddish brown then voila, it’s flea dirt for sure. The reason it turns reddish is because it’s basically digested blood.

    Preventing Fleas:

  • There are many ways to prevent your dog from getting fleas, from all-natural remedies (detailed in our blog post on this topic) including certain essential oils and nutritional additives to topically-applied solutions, and even prescription pills that prevent and also kill any parasitic activity. Check with your veterinarian for the preventative that makes the most sense for your pet.
  • But the best way to prevent fleas is to keep your pet healthy! Fleas and ticks are far more likely to attach to animals with poorly maintained coats and dirty, matted fur and also animals with weak immune systems.
  • Bathing your dog and cat regularly with a good, natural shampoo is also a first line of defense against fleas and ticks. earthbath’s Orange Peel Oil Shampoo is great for flea prevention due to its concentrated citrus oil. Orange Peel Oil is the natural oil rendered from oranges, and is also called d-Limonene. d-Limonene is registered with the Federal Environmental Protection Agency as an insecticide and is very effective at killing fleas
  • Ultimately: prevention is ideal, but if you notice an infestation, don’t worry: treating a problem (any problem) as soon as you notice it will help both you and your pet feel better quickly. If your pet is scratching more than usual, take note. Do an examination and if you still can’t detect anything, it’s time for a trip to the vet. As long as you follow proper prevention techniques, you can ensure there won’t be a relapse.

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Pet Travel Essentials

Wednesday, July 6th, 2011

If you’re going to be road-tripping (or even heading out for a fun day in the sun) with your pet this summer, don’t forget your dog-specific travel supplies! We’ve compiled a list of the 8 most important items to ensure you both make the most of your day(s) off without any hassles or health trip-ups!

Make sure you bring along:

  • Travel dog bowls and clean water:  Don’t let your dog drink out of city puddles, or mountain-fresh streams and rivers. The same Giardia parasite you’re avoiding by not drinking out of streams and rivers could also infect your dog, along with a whole other host of worms and parasitic nastiness that you really don’t want to get involved with! Leptospirosis is a deadly disease that is easily picked up by dogs when they sniff or drink out of puddles or still water that has been contaminated by leptospirosis-infected urine (often carried by rodents, raccoons, skunks, etc). Vets see a lot of cases of leptospirosis in late summer and fall, particularly in places where it rains heavily. Scarily, not all dogs infected with this bacteria show any symptoms, yet if left untreated, it can eventually cause kidney failure and death. Prevent water-borne diseases and parasites in your pets by carrying your own water, so they won’t be tempted to drink out of mud puddles! Collapsible/foldable dog bowls or refillable doggy water bottles are easy to find, and quick and simple to pack along on any trip, from your daily neighborhood walk (critical in the summer heat) to car rides to longer hikes and travels.
  • Food: Depending on how long you’ll be gone, your dog will need to replenish his energy stores, just as you do! And if you’re packing a picnic or BBQ supplies at the beach, don’t leave Fido hanging out hungry. Ensuring you’ve got food along just for him will stave off the temptation to let him share your feast (which could lead to tummy troubles later)!
  • Travel Wipes: For muddy trails, river crossings, and whatever other kinds of  “gunk” your dog gets into, it will make the car ride home a much more pleasant experience if you clean off your dog’s muddy paws with earthbath travel wipes, made just for situations like these!
  • Dog Cooling Bandannas or Wraps: If it’s very hot, or if you plan to walk or hike several miles, make sure your dog doesn’t get overheated. If you’re hiking, you can all go for a swim in the lake or streams (but watch that he doesn’t ingest the water!), or else, for a safer and more reliable approach, you can use one of the specially made wraps or bandannas that you soak in cool water, or even place in the fridge or cooler for an intensified chiller-effect, that expand, allowing the water-filled material to evaporate through the layers as airflow moves over it.
  • Flea, tick and mosquito protection: Summer is insect season, and if you’re heading out into the great outdoors, you’ll want to be sure and protect your pet from fleas, ticks, mosquitos, flies, and other biting insects. Check with your vet for the best product(s) for your pet’s special needs.
  • Sunscreen: A lot of people don’t think about it, but if your dog is short-haired, light-colored, or shaved, he is just as susceptible to painful sunburn and skin cancer as you are. That means as you slather yourself up with sunscreen, so should you slather your dog. In addition, even if your pet isn’t white or particularly short-haired, the tip of the nose, especially if it’s pale or white, is prone to sun-induced tumors, as are the tips of the ears (or any area which is sparsely covered in hair and the skin is thin). There are specific sunscreens designed for pets, but sensitive skin or baby sunscreens can be used as well. However, be careful with the sunscreen you use on your dog, because some ingredients can be toxic if they are licked off. Zinc oxide should never be used because dogs can become dangerously anemic if it is ingested.

  • Dog Pack or Saddle Bag: If your dog is going to be hiking along with you, depending on how far you’re going, he might as well carry his own weight! A travel bag specially made to be worn comfortably by your dog makes hiking and especially, backpacking, much easier on you, if he can carry his own food, water, treats, medications, dog bowls, wipes, and anything else he (or you) might need.
  • Watch for signs of overheating and heat exhaustion: Though not a material “item,” the best thing to bring along on any summertime adventure with your pet is constant vigilant awareness to your pet’s comfort level and state of energy. Remember, dogs only have their tongues to cool off, and an inexhaustible desire to “keep up” with you and please you. This means, unfortunately, that your dog will likely drive itself to complete exhaustion rather than prevent you from continuing your run/hike/walk/etc. So, it’s up to you to stop your dog before he gets to that unfortunate point.

    If panting isn’t enough to reduce their rising body temperature, the dog is in danger of developing heat stroke. Early signs of heat exhaustion include rapid breathing, heavy panting, and thick, ropy salivation. Other signs are fatigue, muscle tremors, and staggering/confusion. If you think your dog may be suffering from heat exhaustion, take him to a cool, shady place, and apply wet towels or cloths to help cool the dog’s body down. Don’t let the dog rapidly gulp water, as this can create shock in its body and make it even sicker. Give the dog small amounts of water, and immediately call a vet.

  • Finally, if it’s too hot for you, it’s WAY too hot for your dog. Wait until it cools off before you do anything active.

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