Archive for the ‘Grooming’ Category

L’Eau de Carcass: Why your dog loves to roll in it

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011

Back in April of this year, after being utterly revolted by our previously pristine diva-of-a-puppy rolling ecstatically in god-knows-what-filth she found on the ground, we did some research into why (…oh WHY?!) dogs find the grossest, smelliest, gooiest things on the ground apparently irresistible. We didn’t get very far. Basically, the upshot was: no one knows, but there are some theories, the dominant one of which is that it’s a holdover instinct from their wolf ancestors, who would roll in carcasses for unknown reasons. (Note that this behavior isn’t unique to wolves and dogs either, evidenced by the photo above… yes, that’s a bear, rolling in bison urine.)  As to WHY animals roll in disgusting and dead things, most think it’s due to one or more of the following reasons:

1) To learn about the substance

2) To cover up their own scent (for purposes of predation)

3) To communicate to others what they’ve found (note that this negates theory #2)

and/or

4) To claim the carcass as their own – apparently – by wearing it.

None of these theories have been convincingly supported (though all of them sound fairly plausible, if you’re thinking like a wolf).

To date, there are still no known similar studies in domestic dogs, unfortunately. However, more research has unearthed (pun completely intended!) two fairly comprehensive, and complementary, studies conducted on “scent-rubbing” behavior in wolves and hyenas (two species that are closely related to domestic dogs). Note that “scent rubbing” is different from “scent-marking,” which transfers the animal’s individual scent to the environment, most effectively accomplished by  urinating and defecating, but also by rubbing up against things.  A study of wolves and another study in hyenas showed that scent-rubbing is an “unconditioned response”, which means that it’s an instinct, simple as that.  As to what their scent preferences are? They range from the moderately yucky (cigarette ashes) to increasingly unpalatable (rotten fruit) to downright nauseating (decomposing animals).

More interesting, and new to note from these studies, are the specific preferences the animals exhibited -  for type of odor, behavioral response to the odor, and also… lack of habituation to certain scents. This means that one theory can be discounted: scent-rubbing has likely NOT evolved to serve the purpose of obtaining specific information about the thing that’s being rubbed upon. If the purpose of scent rubbing was for the animal to learn about the stinky thing (theory #1 above), then repeated exposure to it would lead to a decrease in rubbing against it (because the information about it had already been learned). That didn’t happen.

Another theory: that dogs scent-rub to “camouflage” their own odors (theory #2 above), is also probably not the reason for rolling in yuck. This theory sounds good from an evolutionary principle: camouflaging themselves with the scent of a harmless animal would not raise suspicion in the prey animals that would otherwise run once they got whiff o’ wolf.

How did this theory get discounted? Well, the researchers carefully selected four different kinds of odoriferous substances that they “coated the ground” with. In four separate areas of a field, the researchers spread four different types of nastiness: 1) carnivore feces (black bear and cougar scat), 2) herbivore feces (sheep and horse feces), 3) smelly food (tuna oil and salt pork), and 4) ‘manufactured scents’ (motor oil and a cheap but very strong perfume). The wolves were let loose and their behavior around each of these substances was carefully observed and noted.

In contradiction to what the researchers originally thought would happen, the wolves showed a consistently strong preference for rubbing themselves into some substances and not to others, with manufactured odors (the perfume and the motor oil) eliciting the strongest “rolling” response. Interesting. Can’t say I saw that one coming from an evolutionary point of view, given that these substances aren’t even natural. However, this response might in fact help substantiate theory #1 – learning about a new or novel substance introduced to the environment. Given that such human-made substances wouldn’t naturally show up in the wild, it seems very plausible that an animal would want to gather as much information as it could about the stimulus. However, just to be contradictory, this thinking is just as easily dismissed, because the wolves didn’t show a decreased preference to rub against these substances even after they had done so previously (ostensibly after they had already gathered all of the information they could).

However, carnivore feces had them rolling in ecstasy too, but, oddly, not herbivore feces. And the wolves weren’t interested in rolling in the  food products either, although they were happy to lick at or even eat the tuna oil and salted pork (the study proves one thing: even wolves love bacon).

If the “camouflaging for purposes of predation” hypothesis were true, then wouldn’t it be much better for a wolf to disguise itself in sheep’s clothing (or poo) to sneak up on a sheep, rather, than, oh, a predator equal to or worse than itself: i.e., bear or cougar?! This would suggest that the wolf would prefer the herbivore feces to carnivore feces, but the opposite happened.

The scientists behind the hyena study, on the other hand, actually showed really good evidence of theory #3 – that rolling around in rotten things serves  an important social function: the information is contained in the odor would be conveyed from one hyena to another, when they greeted each other. Similar to dogs, hyenas greet each other by mutually sniffing and inspecting each other’s face, neck, mouth, and head region, as well as the all-important “flank and behind” area.

The researchers took this information and performed a simple experiment and observed the results. They took one group of hyenas and doused them down with “eau de carrion” and introduced them to another group of normal hyenas, and compared the results with introductions between hyenas who had no scents (or a neutral non-animal based scent) forced upon them. The hyenas perfumed with carcass-odor received significantly more attention than did the neutrally-scented or non-odor-donning hyenas. In fact, the hyenas “wearing” the eau-de-carcass received more positive social interactions and receptiveness from the other hyenas.

The researchers of the wolf study did not take their observations to this level, that is, to re-introduce the odor-wearing wolves back into their non-odor-wearing brethren and observe the results in comparison to non-odoriferous wolves, though it is likely that they would see similar reactions between the group, substantiating the behavioral outcome across at least two species.

All of these results suggest that rolling around in disgusting muck serves probably no other purpose than to convey interesting information back to the pack, and perhaps, elevate the carrion-bearer’s status a bit within the group at least for a time, since the wearer probably does, in fact, own it (the carcass, that is). For those of us human members of our dogs’ “pack,” we receive the information they return to us with great disgust, outrage, and aggravation, much to their (likely) confusion.

Regardless of the reasons, the outcome is clear: Into the bath we go — it’s time for another earthbath!

Sources:

Drea CM, Vignieri SN, Cunningham SB, Glickman SE. (2002) Responses to olfactory stimuli in spotted hyenas (Crocuta crocuta): I. Investigation of environmental odors and the function of rolling. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 116(4):331-41.

Ryon, J., Fentress, J.C., Harrington,  F. H., Bragdon, S. (1986). Scent rubbing in wolves (Canis lupus): the effect of novelty. Canadian Journal of Zoology, 64:(3) 573-577.

*Photo credit: The Wild Photographer: Larry Thorngren

Summer Coat Care for Dog Paddlers!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Remember back when you used to go swimming every day during summer… until your hair turned green from all the chlorine? And then you learned – always to rinse after swimming (good), wash (better), or pre-condition your hair before taking a dip (best).

Just because your dog may not be mortified by suddenly morphing locks of green, this doesn’t mean you can (or should) ignore summer swim coat care for him, just as you wouldn’t ignore proper summer hair care protection for yourself!

If your dog loves jumping in the lake, cavorting on the beach, or even diving into the pool, that summer splash factor can wreak havoc on your dog’s shiny coat and itch-free skin unless you take some simple grooming precautions.

For Pool Pooches:

Chlorine is notoriously drying – and dogs aren’t immune to its parching effects either. Dogs who join you in your backyard pool are likely to be more prone to itchy, dry skin and a dull, dry coat because the pool chemicals strip the skin and coat of their naturally protective oils. Remember, too, that a dog’s skin is more sensitive than human skin, with a pH that is nearly neutral (like pure water) – human skin pH is much more acidic, so we can tolerate the harsher acidity of chemicals (like chlorine) much better than our dogs.

Chlorine could even change the color of your dog’s coat: it could affect dark coats by dulling and even bleaching them out, and even turn those platinum blondes (hey golden retrievers, yellow labs, and snow white malteses – we’re talking to you!) green!

How to avoid these pool pitfalls? Just follow these three simple things:

1) Spray down your dog with a coat conditioner like any of our earthbath spritzes before he hits the pool. This conditioning spray will help create a barrier of protection for both his skin and coat from the drying effects of the chlorine.

2) After every swim, rinse him down thoroughly with pure, cool water. Rinse well longer than you think is necessary just so you ensure all pool chemicals and chlorine is completely gone. Towel dry, and then, if you have time (for an even better protective effect), follow with another spritz of earthbath conditioning spritz in your favorite scent! Comb through to get out any mats before they worsen, and to distribute the conditioning spray evenly.

3) Once a week, comb your dog out completely and bathe him thoroughly with any of earthbath’s gentle shampoos and follow with a conditioner. This will ensure any remaining chemical residue is completely washed out, and will also re-moisturize his coat.

Bow Wow, Beach Dog

Though saltwater and a day in the sun can create perfect “sun-kissed beach hair” for us girls, that same sun, salt, and sand can result in nothing but an itchy mess for your dog unless you prep with a few key items:

1) Prep with a moisturizing conditioner or conditioning spray to protect his skin and coat.

2) Before you leave your day at the beach, make sure to give your dog a thorough brushing to get all the sand and grit out of his coat. Brush against the direction of hair growth, and then with it. Then give him a thorough rinsing in those beach showers – rinse him down completely to get rid of any remaining sand and rinse all of the salt out.

3) If he’s still itching later, or perhaps feels a bit grimy or sticky… it’s time for an earthbath! earthbath oatmeal and aloe or tea tree and aloe shampoos are perfect for itchy dogs, as these natural healers will help to soothe itchy spots and areas of discomfort. Generally, if your dog is spending a lot of time with you outdoors and especially at the beach, lake, or pool, a bath once a week as a necessity to keep him clean and comfortable. Definitely make sure to condition, so you’re protecting his skin and coat every time you shampoo. A perfect spritz for hot, itchy dogs is SheaPet’s Herbal Hot Spot & Itch Relief Moisturizing Treatment with Shea Butter & Tea Tree Oil Spritz, a great leave-on herbal skin tonic and coat conditioner.

4) Keep in mind what hot sand does to tender paws! Apply a soothing shea butter balm like SheaPet Aloe and Treatment Balm which is great to heal cracked pads, sun-sore noses, and hot spots.

“Freshwater” Fidos

Unfortunately, freshwater streams, lakes, and rivers are not quite as pristine as you’d like to believe.  Which doesn’t matter to your dog – who (we know from experience) would relish any opportunity to roll in a mud puddle – or to you, if you’re one of the majority of us who live near a body of water that is not an ocean.  Lakes, rivers, and streams are a blast to play in, but many of them contain fairly high levels of algae, sludge, pollutants, bugs, and even leeches!

This means – any dip in the lake should be followed by a full-fledged earthbath afterwards. Take care to observe all of the usual steps you’d take prior to bathing your dog – comb him out thoroughly to remove any mats or tangles, wet him down thoroughly, and scrub him to the skin with a gentle but effective shampoo. Remoisturize with conditioner.

If you’re hitting the pool, lake, or ocean frequently, it’s more important than ever to be using products that won’t strip away the natural oils of the coat and skin – which could do even more damage than not bathing your dog at all. That’s why, if you’re armed with earthbath, you can bathe as often as you like, and never have to worry about irritations!  The only thing you have to concern yourself with, is which of our 11 delicious fragrance options to use… this time!

And with that, the sun’s shining so… we’re off to the beach!

 

Preventing Doggy Swimmer’s Ear!

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

Summertime brings with it longer days, sun-drenched vacations, and necessary escapes to the nearest body of water to cool down. For dogs who like to hit the lake, beach, or pool with you, this increased time in the water also increases the risk of painful ear infections.

When water enters the ear canal, the perfect environment – dark and wet – is created for bacterial and yeast to grow in. Dogs swim “doggy paddle” style, with their head above water, but that doesn’t mean that water won’t splash up into their ears, and sometimes, dogs submerge themselves to fetch a stick or water toy.

To prevent ear infections in your dog, you can always proactively place cotton balls in their ears (pre-swim and definitely pre-bath), but after a swim or bath, make sure to dry out the insides of your dog’s ears as thoroughly as you can with a towel or more cotton balls. Never use q-tips because it’s just too easy to puncture their delicate ear drum.

Floppy-eared dogs are most at risk for ear infections, because those lovable floppy ear flaps can prevent your dog’s ears from air-drying after a swim, so if your dog has two of these (floppy ears, that is), take extra-special care to ensure they are dried out as much as possible!

Your veterinarian can even prescribe a special ear wash that you can apply weekly or even monthly to help keep ears clean and free of waxy buildup and bacterial and yeast growth – so if you think your dog would be a good candidate for something like this, ask your vet!

Head-Scratching Symptoms?

If your dog starts shaking his head repeatedly or without any discernible cause (or effect), starts scratching at his ears, or if you see any redness inside his ears, it’s definitely time to call the vet. It’s easy enough to treat an ear infection in dogs (just as it is in humans), but if they are left untreated, they can spread deeply inside the ear canal and become extremely painful. It’s up to you to notice any changes in your dog’s behavior and appearance, to ensure he’s his most comfortable and happy, since your dog isn’t going to start speaking English anytime soon (though you may be fluent in “dog”).

 

Shiny coats = happy, healthy dogs

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

Hair matters. Remember that old shampoo commercial: “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful?” as the model swung her luscious, full, shiny mane of hair in slow motion towards the camera? It was pretty darn effective: sales of that brand of shampoo soared, and the tagline is still memorable today, at least 15 years later.

Even as styles and even ideal weights and body sizes have varied throughout cultures and different eras, shiny, full, bouncy hair has always been desirable, and a sign of youth, health, and attractiveness.

The dog with a pretty, shiny coat and the sparkly eyes will always be adopted first, over the dog with a scruffy, patchy coat with bald spots and dull eyes.

…Oh, did you think I was talking about women?

Well, maybe I was initially. But just as in humans, in dogs, how supple, smooth, and shiny the skin and hair (or fur) appears is an externally visible reflection of overall health.

If your dog has a dull, dry coat, this is an external indication of poor nutritional health. A good diet is essential to good coat health, but just as in humans, a good skin and haircare (or coat care) routine is necessary to supplement a good diet.

Key (food) ingredients to good hair and coat health (take notes, not just for your canine friend, but for yourself too!) are:

  • Linoleic acid: This is an Omega-6 fatty acid that supports the proper functioning of the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without the proper production of skin oils, over time, the coat will look dry and lusterless. In addition, linoleic acid helps to prevent water loss from the skin.
  • Omega-3 fatty acids (notably, EPA and DHA): These are considered to be the foundation of healthy skin, and are also recommended to support organ function such as heart and kidney function and joint health. EPA and DHA are the Omega-3 fatty acids that work at the cellular level to help the immune system react optimally when it faces challenges.
  • Vitamins A, C, and E; and Zinc: These vitamins and the mineral Zinc help to neutralize free radicals that can harm cells.
  • B vitamins (including biotin): B’s are critical to proper cellular functioning, including skin and hair health.
  • Choline and Inositol: These substances help to maintain the integrity of skin cells.

Of course, ideal hair/coat-care consists of a two-pronged strategy – from the inside-out (what you eat shows up in your glowing skin and shiny, lush hair/fur), and also, from the outside-in. Your hair (and coat-care) products really do matter. That’s why we’ve spent so much time crafting the best quality shampoo and conditioning products possible. Here are some key things to look for in your pet shampoo and coat care products:

Because dog’s skin and coat is so sensitive, it’s crucial that you never use harsh cleansers - soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue behind.

  • The cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, soap-free, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.
  • Use a pH-balanced cleanser. Dogs’ skin pH is almost neutral, meaning that the pH balanced shampoos for HUMANS will be much more acidic and as a result, highly irritating to their much more sensitive skin.
  • Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners are key to replacing the nourishing oils that can be washed away, and skin-soothing ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal promote healing of skin irritations and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin.

 

A 4-step guide to DIY dog grooming

Wednesday, June 8th, 2011

Dogs will be dogs, and it’s all part and parcel of why we love them (and sometimes, are infuriated with them, say, after one of your dogs decides to crash through the forest only to follow with a roll in the mud right before running into your newly cleaned house…). But because you chose to share your life with a living dog, as opposed to, oh, a stuffed animal, you’ll have to face the task of cleaning them up after any romp through the yuck, as well as just for normal “maintenance.”

You can always pay a professional groomer to do the “dirty work” but if you’re keen on saving some dollars and also spending some more quality time with your dog, you can take on the task yourself. Here is our four-step guide to DIY dog grooming, to help you (and your dog) get in and out of the shower as easily as possible, and back onto the couch for some squeaky-clean snuggle time!

First, gather your tools – you may need to buy a few “professional-quality” tools, which may be somewhat costly at the outset, but will save you money over the long haul. You’ll need:

  • Stainless steel comb – great for tangles; you can get different widths based on the length and density of the coat you’re working on
  • Brush(es) – depending on the kind of dog you have, you may be able to get away with one all-purpose pin brush or slicker brush, or you may need up to 3 or 4 different kinds (those with double-coated breeds or high-maintenance long-haired coats, I’m looking at you), including an undercoat rake, slicker brush, pin brush (or two), mat breaker, and/or a Furminator.
  • Nail Clippers and styptic powder (or quik-stop)
  • Professional Clippers – if you want to take on the fur trimming that almost all dogs benefit from (especially in the hot summer months)
  • Grooming scissors – to trim around the pads of the feet, to keep the anal area nice and tidy, and any other stray hairs
  • Lots of towels – you can use old towels or spend some cash for one or more “shammy” cloth-type towels that soak up multiple-times their weight of water
  • Cotton balls (for ears) and ear and eye cleaning solutions

Dog Marley-Dreads?

If you’re not into reggae (at least on your dog), the first step, before doing anything else – especially turning on the water – is to thoroughly brush him out. Brushing before bathing will get rid of loose hair and any little mats or clumps of dirt or detritus that are stuck in his coat. If you do find any knots or mats, these must be carefully combed or cut out, or they’ll be almost impossible to get out after they get wet.

This is where your mat breaker and/or detangler comes in handy – a mat breaker is essentially a version of thinning shears – it looks kind of like a comb but the “tines” are actually blades that rake out/cut through mats as the fur passes through the blades. Using thinning shears or a mat breaker is preferable to cutting out the mat because you won’t be left with a bald spot. The FUR-minator tool is also a popular undercoat remover in that it has a specially-designed edge that penetrates to the loose undercoat and removes it while leaving the topcoat intact. Many people swear by this handy tool during “blowing coat” season as it really does seem to help make the dog more comfortable, and also significantly reduces shedding and matting.

Our earthbath spritzes are perfect to use as detanglers, in addition to being heavenly scented. You can spritz as you brush out your dog, spraying as you go, to condition the coat and help detangle as you brush.

If you have a short-haired dog, feel free to scroll down and skip this part. But if you do have a longer-haired breed, take a second and read over our description of linebrushing. This technique is the main key to successfully grooming a long-haired or double-coated dog. First, your dog should be settled comfortably lying down on the floor or on his grooming table. He should be used to being groomed, because this will take a bit of time – and if not, start slowly, use treats, and get him accustomed to laying still for longer and longer periods of time until you are done. Divide the dog into large sections (e.g., head, neck and chest, shoulders, each side, his rear end, his underbelly, and legs), and completely brush out each section before moving on. Within each section, using your brush, part the coat either horizontally across the dog or vertically down his spine. Use this part as the base for your linebrushing. As you brush, make sure you brush all the way to the skin and brush the hair up and away from the part. As you go, you can mist the coat with water or a conditioning spritz as you to help detangle and condition the coat.

Linebrushing is, in a sense, the difference between amateur and professional grooming. The biggest problem professional groomers see is when dogs are brought in because their undercoats are so terribly matted yet their owners will be confused because they say they brush them daily. The reason for all of the mats is because they only get brushed on the surface, and never penetrate to the skin.  One good comb-out to the skin will be worth several surface brushing sessions and ultimately, will cut your grooming time down.

Wash and Wear

Your choice of shampoo is very important. Choosing a sub-par product that doesn’t suit your dog’s coat can leave your dog itchy and scratching. All of earthbath’s shampoos and conditioners are specially formulated to be extra gentle to a dog’s skin and coat, while thoroughly cleaning him, leaving him shiny, soft, fluffy, and fragrant. Our creme rinse and conditioner delivers conditioning vitamins right down to the hair roots to make his coat even stronger, softer and shinier.

Let’s face it – when you give your dog a bath, the odds are that you’re probably getting one too! So, make it more comfortable for both of you, and use lukewarm water, and a non-slip surface for you both to stand on.

When you are shampooing your dog, make sure you place cotton balls inside your dogs ears to prevent any shampoo or water from getting inside. Just a little bit could be enough to cause an infection. Wet your dog all over, apply the shampoo evenly over his body, and lather thoroughly. Another method is to dilute the shampoo in a bucket of warm water and gently pour this solution over him, massaging as you go. (This works particularly well for densely-coated breeds). Make sure you rinse him well (when you feel you’ve rinsed him completely, rinse him again) to remove all of the shampoo from his coat. Even though he will try to “help” the drying process by shaking when you least expect it, you can prevent this by simply encircling his snout gently with your hand. A dog starts his shake from his nose, so this little trick will ensure that he literally cannot start the shake until you’ve cleared the area!

If your dog has a long or dense coat which tends to get tangled, it’s a great idea to massage a creme rinse conditioner into his coat after shampooing, and rinse out. You can also finish off with your favorite flavor of spritz. He’ll be super soft and silky when you brush him next time!

Mani-Pedi (and Ear Cleaning) Time

After you’re done shampooing, take a look inside your dog’s ears. Make sure to keep his ear canals free of hair, to allow air to circulate and prevent them from staying moist. You can do this by gently clipping out the hair or plucking the hair with tweezers. Make sure you only grab a few hairs at a time, or it will hurt. If he has particularly dirty or waxy ears, clean them with an ear cleaning solution. Squeeze some solution into his ear, massage the ear base to move it around, then gently wipe it out with cotton balls. Never use Q-Tips in a dog’s ear – if he moves his head, you could injure his eardrum.

Even though you may fear the thought of clipping your dog’s toenails, with a little bit of patience (and practice), you’ll be able to give your dog a nice pedicure, no problem. Go slowly: many dogs hate having their toenails cut, and as a result, twist or pull their feet away, which could wind up in injury.

Use good quality clippers and make sure they’re sharp. Cheaper clippers often crush the nail before they cut, and this hurts.

If you’re new to cutting your dog’s nail, go slowly and conservatively – most people fear cutting into the quick, which grows WITH the nail – which means, staying on top of nail trims becomes important for keeping nails short. If you let the nails grow long, don’t expect to be able to cut them short right away. You can only cut to where the quick ends. Clipping your dog’s nails is relatively easy if your dog has white toenails – you can see the pink blood vessel and avoid cutting into it. Black toenails are harder. It’s better to err on the side of caution, and nibble away at the nail, a little at a time.

If you do happen to cut the quick, you’ll know about it right away – your dog will probably yelp as it does sting, and it seems to bleed a lot! It’s handy to have some styptic powder in your grooming kit for just such occasions. Sprinkle a little on the bleeding nail and it will stop very quickly.

Long haired dogs also look tidier if you trim the hair around and between the toes with scissors.

And if your dog’s paws are feeling rough and ragged, be sure to heal and protect them. Try SheaPet Shea Butter and Aloe Treatment Balm which is a quick relief soothing treatment for dry, cracked noses and paws.