Archive for the ‘Grooming’ Category

Why is my dog itching? — Identifying and Preventing Pet Allergies

Monday, August 8th, 2011

Your dog is scratching constantly, rolling around in the dirt more than usual, licking its paws, and biting himself like he’s his own vicious enemy.

It’s clear he’s uncomfortable and itchy, but why? It’s probably dog allergies. But is it due to pollen, food, dust mites … or your other pets? There are nearly endless possibilities.

We help you narrow it down to the likeliest ones. Once you know what’s causing your dog to itch, you can take action to provide your dog with some much-needed relief.

First, does your dog itch all year-round, or just in certain seasons?

Seasonal dog allergies. Seasonal environmental triggers are the most common cause of dog itching and scratching. Allergies usually develop after a couple of years of exposure, if they’re going to develop at all. It’s still unknown as to why one individual will develop allergies, while the next one won’t.  Just like in humans, genetics are thought to play a part, since allergies often run in families. Repeated exposure is important, too.

If you’re desperate to pinpoint the specific cause of seasonal allergies in your dog, your vet can do a “scratch test” (again, similar to the kind of test you’d take yourself to find out what you’re allergic to). Extracts of different pollens and allergens are injected just under a shaved area of skin, and reactions are noted a few minutes later.

Treatments:

You should consult your vet to determine the exact reason your dog may be itching, and for specific prescribed treatment of any identified allergies or problems like hot spots. However, using earthbath wipes frequently: after every outside excursion, before you notice your dog starting to try to clean himself, and before bed each night, can really reduce the pollen that clings to your dog’s fur, reducing the likelihood that allergies will develop.

Frequent baths are important, especially in the summer, when everyone is outside playing more. If you’ve never bathed your dog yourself, check our DIY how-to guide in which we take you through it, step-by-step! Using earthbath shampoos with itch-soothing ingredients like Oatmeal and Aloe, Tea Tree and Aloe, or Eucalyptus and Peppermint (great for soothing bug bites and general dermatitis) can really help calm the itchies.

Chances are, the itchies will disappear as fast as the summer sun does, but if not, note that there are only a few causes of year-round canine allergies:

Food: This is the first thing many people think of as causing canine allergies, but it’s actually one of the least likely. True food allergies are uncommon in dogs, with only about 15% of allergic dogs being allergic to certain ingredients. That said, there are some ingredients that some dogs are more sensitive to than others: like humans who are sensitive or downright intolerant of wheat, many dogs are allergic to wheat gluten. Sensitivity to corn and soy can also crop up fairly frequently:  If you have an itchy dog, start eliminating foods containing soy, corn, and wheat.

Try switching to a food with a different protein source or with a different grain content. Test this food for 6 weeks and see if there’s any difference in your dog’s itchiness.

Also, to prevent food allergies, one of the best things you can do is give your dog some variety in his diet. The more exposure to an ingredient, the more likely an allergy will develop — so change it up — not only will his tastebuds thank you (wouldn’t you get bored of eating the same thing day after day? Thought so. So does your dog.), but so will his state of health.

Mold. If you live somewhere humid, or if your kitchen and bathroom are unventilated, mold spores may be causing dog allergies (if they aren’t already causing allergies in you!)  Mold grows wherever and whenever there is moisture. Depending on where you live and what your drainage conditions are like, this can be seasonal or year-round.

What to do? If you live in a humid environment, or if summers get rather damp around your neck of the woods, keep the humidity low in your house by using a dehumidifier and/or air conditioner. Fix leaks when you notice them Use the exhaust fan in the bathroom after showering, and, when cooking, use your stove air vent.

Other animals. You may not be the only one who’s allergic to your cat!  Dogs can become allergic to the potent and persistent allergen known as FelD1, found in cat saliva. When the cat licks himself, the saliva dries and flakes off, then floats away.  It’s no wonder there are so many people (and dogs) with allergies to cats: FelD1 is very lightweight and very sticky. It sticks to walls, furniture, carpet and drapes. It also can stay active in a home environment for at least 10 years (yikes!).

As with cats, even people, other dogs, birds, and any other furry critters (rabbits, hamsters, weasels, ferrets, etc.) are possible allergy-inducers. Again, keeping everybody clean makes a difference: no skimping on earthbaths! Also keep in mind that long-haired or fluffy dogs can easily track pollen in on their fur. Even short-haired dogs aren’t immune: pollen clings to their coat easily, even if it may not look like it.  One good shake and it spreads throughout the house.

Treatments:

Wipe-down:  Keep a box of earthbath wipes by the door and in the car and wipe your dogs down before they come inside. Since earthbath makes four different varieties (Green Tea, Mango Tango, Cherry (Puppy), and Hypo-Allergenic), you’ll be able to keep a different flavor at every entry point! Make sure you get between their pads as well as a quick rub down all over their coat. This will greatly reduce the amount of pollen that clings to their fur.

earthbaths!: Bathe your animals regularly, including your cats, and use wipes to rub them down frequently, especially after they clean themselves. For a great “how-to” guide on bathing your cat yourself, check out our blog post which has a lot of great tips on corralling your kitty in the bath! Good thing earthbath has a great cat shampoo (with a delectable cherry scent) and cat wipes (in both Green Tea and Hypo-Allergenic varieties)!

Clean your house: Obviously “fluffy” surfaces like carpets, drapes, pillows, bedding, and fabric couches trap dander much easier and in greater volumes than wipeable surfaces (like wood floors, tile, stone, blinds, leather, etc.) but in both cases, consistent and thorough cleaning can help keep dander at bay.

Purify the air: HEPA air filters are really effective in trapping large amounts of allergens, including pollen, cat allergens, and other air pollutants. Invest in a great quality air purifier, and ensure your vacuum has a HEPA filter as well.

Have you noticed an increase in allergies this summer? How do you deal with them? Share your tips with us! If you leave a comment below and post it to Facebook, you may receive a little earthbath surprise from us!

L’Eau de Carcass: Why your dog loves to roll in it

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011

Back in April of this year, after being utterly revolted by our previously pristine diva-of-a-puppy rolling ecstatically in god-knows-what-filth she found on the ground, we did some research into why (…oh WHY?!) dogs find the grossest, smelliest, gooiest things on the ground apparently irresistible. We didn’t get very far. Basically, the upshot was: no one knows, but there are some theories, the dominant one of which is that it’s a holdover instinct from their wolf ancestors, who would roll in carcasses for unknown reasons. (Note that this behavior isn’t unique to wolves and dogs either, evidenced by the photo above… yes, that’s a bear, rolling in bison urine.)  As to WHY animals roll in disgusting and dead things, most think it’s due to one or more of the following reasons:

1) To learn about the substance

2) To cover up their own scent (for purposes of predation)

3) To communicate to others what they’ve found (note that this negates theory #2)

and/or

4) To claim the carcass as their own – apparently – by wearing it.

None of these theories have been convincingly supported (though all of them sound fairly plausible, if you’re thinking like a wolf).

To date, there are still no known similar studies in domestic dogs, unfortunately. However, more research has unearthed (pun completely intended!) two fairly comprehensive, and complementary, studies conducted on “scent-rubbing” behavior in wolves and hyenas (two species that are closely related to domestic dogs). Note that “scent rubbing” is different from “scent-marking,” which transfers the animal’s individual scent to the environment, most effectively accomplished by  urinating and defecating, but also by rubbing up against things.  A study of wolves and another study in hyenas showed that scent-rubbing is an “unconditioned response”, which means that it’s an instinct, simple as that.  As to what their scent preferences are? They range from the moderately yucky (cigarette ashes) to increasingly unpalatable (rotten fruit) to downright nauseating (decomposing animals).

More interesting, and new to note from these studies, are the specific preferences the animals exhibited -  for type of odor, behavioral response to the odor, and also… lack of habituation to certain scents. This means that one theory can be discounted: scent-rubbing has likely NOT evolved to serve the purpose of obtaining specific information about the thing that’s being rubbed upon. If the purpose of scent rubbing was for the animal to learn about the stinky thing (theory #1 above), then repeated exposure to it would lead to a decrease in rubbing against it (because the information about it had already been learned). That didn’t happen.

Another theory: that dogs scent-rub to “camouflage” their own odors (theory #2 above), is also probably not the reason for rolling in yuck. This theory sounds good from an evolutionary principle: camouflaging themselves with the scent of a harmless animal would not raise suspicion in the prey animals that would otherwise run once they got whiff o’ wolf.

How did this theory get discounted? Well, the researchers carefully selected four different kinds of odoriferous substances that they “coated the ground” with. In four separate areas of a field, the researchers spread four different types of nastiness: 1) carnivore feces (black bear and cougar scat), 2) herbivore feces (sheep and horse feces), 3) smelly food (tuna oil and salt pork), and 4) ‘manufactured scents’ (motor oil and a cheap but very strong perfume). The wolves were let loose and their behavior around each of these substances was carefully observed and noted.

In contradiction to what the researchers originally thought would happen, the wolves showed a consistently strong preference for rubbing themselves into some substances and not to others, with manufactured odors (the perfume and the motor oil) eliciting the strongest “rolling” response. Interesting. Can’t say I saw that one coming from an evolutionary point of view, given that these substances aren’t even natural. However, this response might in fact help substantiate theory #1 – learning about a new or novel substance introduced to the environment. Given that such human-made substances wouldn’t naturally show up in the wild, it seems very plausible that an animal would want to gather as much information as it could about the stimulus. However, just to be contradictory, this thinking is just as easily dismissed, because the wolves didn’t show a decreased preference to rub against these substances even after they had done so previously (ostensibly after they had already gathered all of the information they could).

However, carnivore feces had them rolling in ecstasy too, but, oddly, not herbivore feces. And the wolves weren’t interested in rolling in the  food products either, although they were happy to lick at or even eat the tuna oil and salted pork (the study proves one thing: even wolves love bacon).

If the “camouflaging for purposes of predation” hypothesis were true, then wouldn’t it be much better for a wolf to disguise itself in sheep’s clothing (or poo) to sneak up on a sheep, rather, than, oh, a predator equal to or worse than itself: i.e., bear or cougar?! This would suggest that the wolf would prefer the herbivore feces to carnivore feces, but the opposite happened.

The scientists behind the hyena study, on the other hand, actually showed really good evidence of theory #3 – that rolling around in rotten things serves  an important social function: the information is contained in the odor would be conveyed from one hyena to another, when they greeted each other. Similar to dogs, hyenas greet each other by mutually sniffing and inspecting each other’s face, neck, mouth, and head region, as well as the all-important “flank and behind” area.

The researchers took this information and performed a simple experiment and observed the results. They took one group of hyenas and doused them down with “eau de carrion” and introduced them to another group of normal hyenas, and compared the results with introductions between hyenas who had no scents (or a neutral non-animal based scent) forced upon them. The hyenas perfumed with carcass-odor received significantly more attention than did the neutrally-scented or non-odor-donning hyenas. In fact, the hyenas “wearing” the eau-de-carcass received more positive social interactions and receptiveness from the other hyenas.

The researchers of the wolf study did not take their observations to this level, that is, to re-introduce the odor-wearing wolves back into their non-odor-wearing brethren and observe the results in comparison to non-odoriferous wolves, though it is likely that they would see similar reactions between the group, substantiating the behavioral outcome across at least two species.

All of these results suggest that rolling around in disgusting muck serves probably no other purpose than to convey interesting information back to the pack, and perhaps, elevate the carrion-bearer’s status a bit within the group at least for a time, since the wearer probably does, in fact, own it (the carcass, that is). For those of us human members of our dogs’ “pack,” we receive the information they return to us with great disgust, outrage, and aggravation, much to their (likely) confusion.

Regardless of the reasons, the outcome is clear: Into the bath we go — it’s time for another earthbath!

Sources:

Drea CM, Vignieri SN, Cunningham SB, Glickman SE. (2002) Responses to olfactory stimuli in spotted hyenas (Crocuta crocuta): I. Investigation of environmental odors and the function of rolling. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 116(4):331-41.

Ryon, J., Fentress, J.C., Harrington,  F. H., Bragdon, S. (1986). Scent rubbing in wolves (Canis lupus): the effect of novelty. Canadian Journal of Zoology, 64:(3) 573-577.

*Photo credit: The Wild Photographer: Larry Thorngren

Summer Coat Care for Dog Paddlers!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Remember back when you used to go swimming every day during summer… until your hair turned green from all the chlorine? And then you learned – always to rinse after swimming (good), wash (better), or pre-condition your hair before taking a dip (best).

Just because your dog may not be mortified by suddenly morphing locks of green, this doesn’t mean you can (or should) ignore summer swim coat care for him, just as you wouldn’t ignore proper summer hair care protection for yourself!

If your dog loves jumping in the lake, cavorting on the beach, or even diving into the pool, that summer splash factor can wreak havoc on your dog’s shiny coat and itch-free skin unless you take some simple grooming precautions.

For Pool Pooches:

Chlorine is notoriously drying – and dogs aren’t immune to its parching effects either. Dogs who join you in your backyard pool are likely to be more prone to itchy, dry skin and a dull, dry coat because the pool chemicals strip the skin and coat of their naturally protective oils. Remember, too, that a dog’s skin is more sensitive than human skin, with a pH that is nearly neutral (like pure water) – human skin pH is much more acidic, so we can tolerate the harsher acidity of chemicals (like chlorine) much better than our dogs.

Chlorine could even change the color of your dog’s coat: it could affect dark coats by dulling and even bleaching them out, and even turn those platinum blondes (hey golden retrievers, yellow labs, and snow white malteses – we’re talking to you!) green!

How to avoid these pool pitfalls? Just follow these three simple things:

1) Spray down your dog with a coat conditioner like any of our earthbath spritzes before he hits the pool. This conditioning spray will help create a barrier of protection for both his skin and coat from the drying effects of the chlorine.

2) After every swim, rinse him down thoroughly with pure, cool water. Rinse well longer than you think is necessary just so you ensure all pool chemicals and chlorine is completely gone. Towel dry, and then, if you have time (for an even better protective effect), follow with another spritz of earthbath conditioning spritz in your favorite scent! Comb through to get out any mats before they worsen, and to distribute the conditioning spray evenly.

3) Once a week, comb your dog out completely and bathe him thoroughly with any of earthbath’s gentle shampoos and follow with a conditioner. This will ensure any remaining chemical residue is completely washed out, and will also re-moisturize his coat.

Bow Wow, Beach Dog

Though saltwater and a day in the sun can create perfect “sun-kissed beach hair” for us girls, that same sun, salt, and sand can result in nothing but an itchy mess for your dog unless you prep with a few key items:

1) Prep with a moisturizing conditioner or conditioning spray to protect his skin and coat.

2) Before you leave your day at the beach, make sure to give your dog a thorough brushing to get all the sand and grit out of his coat. Brush against the direction of hair growth, and then with it. Then give him a thorough rinsing in those beach showers – rinse him down completely to get rid of any remaining sand and rinse all of the salt out.

3) If he’s still itching later, or perhaps feels a bit grimy or sticky… it’s time for an earthbath! earthbath oatmeal and aloe or tea tree and aloe shampoos are perfect for itchy dogs, as these natural healers will help to soothe itchy spots and areas of discomfort. Generally, if your dog is spending a lot of time with you outdoors and especially at the beach, lake, or pool, a bath once a week as a necessity to keep him clean and comfortable. Definitely make sure to condition, so you’re protecting his skin and coat every time you shampoo. A perfect spritz for hot, itchy dogs is SheaPet’s Herbal Hot Spot & Itch Relief Moisturizing Treatment with Shea Butter & Tea Tree Oil Spritz, a great leave-on herbal skin tonic and coat conditioner.

4) Keep in mind what hot sand does to tender paws! Apply a soothing shea butter balm like SheaPet Aloe and Treatment Balm which is great to heal cracked pads, sun-sore noses, and hot spots.

“Freshwater” Fidos

Unfortunately, freshwater streams, lakes, and rivers are not quite as pristine as you’d like to believe.  Which doesn’t matter to your dog – who (we know from experience) would relish any opportunity to roll in a mud puddle – or to you, if you’re one of the majority of us who live near a body of water that is not an ocean.  Lakes, rivers, and streams are a blast to play in, but many of them contain fairly high levels of algae, sludge, pollutants, bugs, and even leeches!

This means – any dip in the lake should be followed by a full-fledged earthbath afterwards. Take care to observe all of the usual steps you’d take prior to bathing your dog – comb him out thoroughly to remove any mats or tangles, wet him down thoroughly, and scrub him to the skin with a gentle but effective shampoo. Remoisturize with conditioner.

If you’re hitting the pool, lake, or ocean frequently, it’s more important than ever to be using products that won’t strip away the natural oils of the coat and skin – which could do even more damage than not bathing your dog at all. That’s why, if you’re armed with earthbath, you can bathe as often as you like, and never have to worry about irritations!  The only thing you have to concern yourself with, is which of our 11 delicious fragrance options to use… this time!

And with that, the sun’s shining so… we’re off to the beach!

 

Preventing Doggy Swimmer’s Ear!

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

Summertime brings with it longer days, sun-drenched vacations, and necessary escapes to the nearest body of water to cool down. For dogs who like to hit the lake, beach, or pool with you, this increased time in the water also increases the risk of painful ear infections.

When water enters the ear canal, the perfect environment – dark and wet – is created for bacterial and yeast to grow in. Dogs swim “doggy paddle” style, with their head above water, but that doesn’t mean that water won’t splash up into their ears, and sometimes, dogs submerge themselves to fetch a stick or water toy.

To prevent ear infections in your dog, you can always proactively place cotton balls in their ears (pre-swim and definitely pre-bath), but after a swim or bath, make sure to dry out the insides of your dog’s ears as thoroughly as you can with a towel or more cotton balls. Never use q-tips because it’s just too easy to puncture their delicate ear drum.

Floppy-eared dogs are most at risk for ear infections, because those lovable floppy ear flaps can prevent your dog’s ears from air-drying after a swim, so if your dog has two of these (floppy ears, that is), take extra-special care to ensure they are dried out as much as possible!

Your veterinarian can even prescribe a special ear wash that you can apply weekly or even monthly to help keep ears clean and free of waxy buildup and bacterial and yeast growth – so if you think your dog would be a good candidate for something like this, ask your vet!

Head-Scratching Symptoms?

If your dog starts shaking his head repeatedly or without any discernible cause (or effect), starts scratching at his ears, or if you see any redness inside his ears, it’s definitely time to call the vet. It’s easy enough to treat an ear infection in dogs (just as it is in humans), but if they are left untreated, they can spread deeply inside the ear canal and become extremely painful. It’s up to you to notice any changes in your dog’s behavior and appearance, to ensure he’s his most comfortable and happy, since your dog isn’t going to start speaking English anytime soon (though you may be fluent in “dog”).

 

Shiny coats = happy, healthy dogs

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

Hair matters. Remember that old shampoo commercial: “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful?” as the model swung her luscious, full, shiny mane of hair in slow motion towards the camera? It was pretty darn effective: sales of that brand of shampoo soared, and the tagline is still memorable today, at least 15 years later.

Even as styles and even ideal weights and body sizes have varied throughout cultures and different eras, shiny, full, bouncy hair has always been desirable, and a sign of youth, health, and attractiveness.

The dog with a pretty, shiny coat and the sparkly eyes will always be adopted first, over the dog with a scruffy, patchy coat with bald spots and dull eyes.

…Oh, did you think I was talking about women?

Well, maybe I was initially. But just as in humans, in dogs, how supple, smooth, and shiny the skin and hair (or fur) appears is an externally visible reflection of overall health.

If your dog has a dull, dry coat, this is an external indication of poor nutritional health. A good diet is essential to good coat health, but just as in humans, a good skin and haircare (or coat care) routine is necessary to supplement a good diet.

Key (food) ingredients to good hair and coat health (take notes, not just for your canine friend, but for yourself too!) are:

  • Linoleic acid: This is an Omega-6 fatty acid that supports the proper functioning of the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without the proper production of skin oils, over time, the coat will look dry and lusterless. In addition, linoleic acid helps to prevent water loss from the skin.
  • Omega-3 fatty acids (notably, EPA and DHA): These are considered to be the foundation of healthy skin, and are also recommended to support organ function such as heart and kidney function and joint health. EPA and DHA are the Omega-3 fatty acids that work at the cellular level to help the immune system react optimally when it faces challenges.
  • Vitamins A, C, and E; and Zinc: These vitamins and the mineral Zinc help to neutralize free radicals that can harm cells.
  • B vitamins (including biotin): B’s are critical to proper cellular functioning, including skin and hair health.
  • Choline and Inositol: These substances help to maintain the integrity of skin cells.

Of course, ideal hair/coat-care consists of a two-pronged strategy – from the inside-out (what you eat shows up in your glowing skin and shiny, lush hair/fur), and also, from the outside-in. Your hair (and coat-care) products really do matter. That’s why we’ve spent so much time crafting the best quality shampoo and conditioning products possible. Here are some key things to look for in your pet shampoo and coat care products:

Because dog’s skin and coat is so sensitive, it’s crucial that you never use harsh cleansers - soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue behind.

  • The cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, soap-free, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.
  • Use a pH-balanced cleanser. Dogs’ skin pH is almost neutral, meaning that the pH balanced shampoos for HUMANS will be much more acidic and as a result, highly irritating to their much more sensitive skin.
  • Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners are key to replacing the nourishing oils that can be washed away, and skin-soothing ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal promote healing of skin irritations and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin.