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What does the USDA Organic Seal mean on grooming products? You’ll be surprised!

Wednesday, March 28th, 2012

The Organic Seal on grooming products means.... SOAP!

Recently we were asked: “earthbath is all-natural, so why doesn’t earthbath have the USDA Organic Seal?” It’s a question that occasionally comes across our desk, and it’s a great one that we’re only too happy to answer!

Even though we love to buy and eat organic produce, and we use the most natural ingredients we can find in our products, we don’t want the USDA Organic Seal (as it stands now) for our grooming products and neither should you. Huh? How can this be, you ask? Well, it’s a bit counter-intuitive but to the best of our knowledge, in order for a grooming product to have the USDA Organic Seal, the grooming solution must contain 100% organic SOAP.

And we give you our unconditional promise that we’ll never put soap into any earthbath product. Soap dries out animals’ skin and coats, leaves residue in the fur that can cause irritation and allergies, and it will wash off topical flea applications. The cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are gentle, hypo-allergenic, renewable coconut-based non-soap cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.

In addition, a dog’s skin is very close to a neutral pH, and significantly more alkaline than human skin, so the kind of shampoo you use on your dog should be much more neutral in pH than the typical pH value of shampoo formulated for human hair (“pH balanced” shampoos for humans are around 4.5-5.5, making them much more acidic, and ultimately very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin). Over time, acidic shampoos also strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Never use human shampoo on your dog… even though it’s okay to use your dog’s shampoo (as long as it’s earthbath :-) ) on your hair – the alkalinic nature of earthbath shampoo will not hurt your hair, and in fact, is milder than the mildest baby shampoo! All of earthbath shampoos are formulated with a pH as close to 7.0 as possible.

Did you know that no government agency regulates use of the term “organic” when it comes to skin care products? Although the USDA enforces a strict standard when it comes to food labeled as organic, the same isn’t true for grooming products, which are notoriously poorly regulated. So what does this mean for you? Well, mostly that if you pick up a product that says it’s organic, that label means absolutely nothing. There’s no regulatory process, so bald-faced lies from manufacturers are all over the place. The item could have no organic, or even “natural,” ingredients in it. Just something to consider when you’re purchasing hair and skin care products for yourself, as well as for your pets! We are hoping the legislation will change to meet the stringent requirements that governs food! But in the meantime, earthbath products do meet the USDA “made with organic ingredients” requirements and we are well down the path to achieving a coveted organic certification used in the environmentally innovative European Union!

See our FAQ for even more details on these topics and more.

Thanks for asking and encouraging us to do all we can to ensure we are on the cutting edge of the most natural, organic products and certifications available. Stay tuned for updates!casino aussie

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Posted in Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Living Green, Natural Remedies | No Comments »

5 Eco-Friendly Ways to “Green” Up Your Pets

Tuesday, September 13th, 2011
green and eco-friendly pets

Living Green!

For a while now, “green” has been the new “black” for style and environmentally-conscious people. We have gone from fast food convenience to embracing a slow-food, locavore lifestyle, buying organic bath and home products, and even ensuring our clothes and home building materials come from renewable resources.

And cats and dogs aren’t being left out in the environmental cold either. It’s now as easy as popping into your local pet supply store to find a range of organic foods, locally baked treats, biodegradable poop bags, organic cotton toys, and eco-friendly grooming supplies (among whom earthbath was one of the first: we’ve been going strong for 15 years and counting, after all!).

If you want to ensure that your pets are living an environmentally-friendly life, (we’re all responsible, earth-loving pet parents, right?), here are five easy ways to ensure your dogs are leaving a minimal carbon paw-print (plus one can’t-miss tip for the cats)!

1. Choose eco-friendly dog accessories.
There are tons of green dog supplies to choose from that are just as cute, comfy, and functional as the “non-green” versions. Some of our favorites include dog beds made from recycled plastic bottles, leashes made from repurposed climbing ropes, and organic cotton toys. And when your pet is tired of his toys, swap with your pet-parent friends rather than throwing them out. (Or if they are just too ratty to give to a friend, try donating your old dog toys, beds, blankets, towels, and accessories to your local animal shelter).

2. Use organic grooming and cleaning products.
Use safe and natural cleaning products that are biodegradable for the planet and safe for your children, your pets, and you. Of course, earthbath pet products use all-natural plant-based cleansers and never contain parabens, harsh soaps, phosphates, artificial dyes/fragrances, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment. For environmentally-friendly ways to clean your house, use natural disinfectants, antibacterials, and cleansing abrasives like baking soda, vinegar, and lemons or brands.

3. Be a biodegradable, green pooper-scooper.
It’s a simple idea that most people never think of: use only flushable and biodegradable poop bags and after your dog has done his business, bag and carry it back to your place for flushing. Instead of carrying it to the nearest trash can, just carry it a little further to a toilet. Why? Because though you might think of pet waste as inherently biodegradable, it is actually one of the leading sources of ground water contamination, and also becomes a huge pollutant sitting inside non-biodegradable plastic bags in the landfills.

If you’re a hardcore environmentalist, you could try composting dog poop (as long as you don’t use it on your vegetable garden). Here is one place we’ve found step-by-step instructions.

Whatever you do, always clean up after your dog. Letting your dog poo in the street and assuming it will get washed away in the next rainstorm is also a bad idea. Fecal matter in waterways, after it gets washed down storm drains, is a surefire guarantee for illness in both people and animals.

4. Use natural flea-repellants.
There are many options for fighting fleas naturally including a number of essential oils that repel fleas and other pests naturally. There are also ways to deter fleas from your yard and home through use of cedar chips and diatomaceous earth. If you have winters where the temperatures fall below freezing, talk to your vet about using the treatments only during the warmer flea season.

5. Buy locally-made, natural and organic pet food (or cook for your pets).
Most commercial dog foods are the reason behind skin problems like hot spots, allergies, itchy areas, and poor coat health among other growing health problems in pets like diabetes, thyroid disease, and obesity.  Just as important as the health of the human members of your family is the health of your animal family members. As much as possible, feed organic veggies and antibiotic- and hormone-free meats that are free of corn, wheat, and grains. There are many natural, organic and holistic pet foods that use proteins that are raised in sustainable, humane ways, use natural vitamins, and do not contain hormones. Try also to buy locally made pet foods. By cutting out the long-distance transportation and packaging of commercial food, you’re cutting out the additional carbon emissions waste necessary to process and transport the food.

Plus:

Make sure your kitty is “green” too.
Most commercial “clumping” cat litter is made of clay and you might be surprised to learn that it’s obtained via extremely environmentally-damaging methods much like coal mining (strip mining), and then piles up in landfills without breaking down. However, there are many eco- (and cat-) friendly litters available made from wheat, corn, and recycled newspaper that are just as good at combating odor, are flushable, and some even clump (naturally). It’s also not a good idea to let cats do their business outside, especially if there is a danger they could go in your or your neighbor’s vegetable patch: their waste can pollute the water and soil with toxoplasma gondii, a parasite that can make pregnant women and the immunocompromised sick.

Simply taking small but measurable steps to greening up your and your pets’ lives will benefit your health, your dog’s and cat’s health and, ultimately the planet’s!casino aussie

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Posted in Cats, Dogs, earthbath, Living Green, Pet Owners | No Comments »

A 4-step guide to DIY dog grooming

Wednesday, June 8th, 2011

Dogs will be dogs, and it’s all part and parcel of why we love them (and sometimes, are infuriated with them, say, after one of your dogs decides to crash through the forest only to follow with a roll in the mud right before running into your newly cleaned house…). But because you chose to share your life with a living dog, as opposed to, oh, a stuffed animal, you’ll have to face the task of cleaning them up after any romp through the yuck, as well as just for normal “maintenance.”

You can always pay a professional groomer to do the “dirty work” but if you’re keen on saving some dollars and also spending some more quality time with your dog, you can take on the task yourself. Here is our four-step guide to DIY dog grooming, to help you (and your dog) get in and out of the shower as easily as possible, and back onto the couch for some squeaky-clean snuggle time!

First, gather your tools – you may need to buy a few “professional-quality” tools, which may be somewhat costly at the outset, but will save you money over the long haul. You’ll need:

  • Stainless steel comb – great for tangles; you can get different widths based on the length and density of the coat you’re working on
  • Brush(es) – depending on the kind of dog you have, you may be able to get away with one all-purpose pin brush or slicker brush, or you may need up to 3 or 4 different kinds (those with double-coated breeds or high-maintenance long-haired coats, I’m looking at you), including an undercoat rake, slicker brush, pin brush (or two), mat breaker, and/or a Furminator.
  • Nail Clippers and styptic powder (or quik-stop)
  • Professional Clippers – if you want to take on the fur trimming that almost all dogs benefit from (especially in the hot summer months)
  • Grooming scissors – to trim around the pads of the feet, to keep the anal area nice and tidy, and any other stray hairs
  • Lots of towels – you can use old towels or spend some cash for one or more “shammy” cloth-type towels that soak up multiple-times their weight of water
  • Cotton balls (for ears) and ear and eye cleaning solutions

Dog Marley-Dreads?

If you’re not into reggae (at least on your dog), the first step, before doing anything else – especially turning on the water – is to thoroughly brush him out. Brushing before bathing will get rid of loose hair and any little mats or clumps of dirt or detritus that are stuck in his coat. If you do find any knots or mats, these must be carefully combed or cut out, or they’ll be almost impossible to get out after they get wet.

This is where your mat breaker and/or detangler comes in handy – a mat breaker is essentially a version of thinning shears – it looks kind of like a comb but the “tines” are actually blades that rake out/cut through mats as the fur passes through the blades. Using thinning shears or a mat breaker is preferable to cutting out the mat because you won’t be left with a bald spot. The FUR-minator tool is also a popular undercoat remover in that it has a specially-designed edge that penetrates to the loose undercoat and removes it while leaving the topcoat intact. Many people swear by this handy tool during “blowing coat” season as it really does seem to help make the dog more comfortable, and also significantly reduces shedding and matting.

Our earthbath spritzes are perfect to use as detanglers, in addition to being heavenly scented. You can spritz as you brush out your dog, spraying as you go, to condition the coat and help detangle as you brush.

If you have a short-haired dog, feel free to scroll down and skip this part. But if you do have a longer-haired breed, take a second and read over our description of linebrushing. This technique is the main key to successfully grooming a long-haired or double-coated dog. First, your dog should be settled comfortably lying down on the floor or on his grooming table. He should be used to being groomed, because this will take a bit of time – and if not, start slowly, use treats, and get him accustomed to laying still for longer and longer periods of time until you are done. Divide the dog into large sections (e.g., head, neck and chest, shoulders, each side, his rear end, his underbelly, and legs), and completely brush out each section before moving on. Within each section, using your brush, part the coat either horizontally across the dog or vertically down his spine. Use this part as the base for your linebrushing. As you brush, make sure you brush all the way to the skin and brush the hair up and away from the part. As you go, you can mist the coat with water or a conditioning spritz as you to help detangle and condition the coat.

Linebrushing is, in a sense, the difference between amateur and professional grooming. The biggest problem professional groomers see is when dogs are brought in because their undercoats are so terribly matted yet their owners will be confused because they say they brush them daily. The reason for all of the mats is because they only get brushed on the surface, and never penetrate to the skin.  One good comb-out to the skin will be worth several surface brushing sessions and ultimately, will cut your grooming time down.

Wash and Wear

Your choice of shampoo is very important. Choosing a sub-par product that doesn’t suit your dog’s coat can leave your dog itchy and scratching. All of earthbath’s shampoos and conditioners are specially formulated to be extra gentle to a dog’s skin and coat, while thoroughly cleaning him, leaving him shiny, soft, fluffy, and fragrant. Our creme rinse and conditioner delivers conditioning vitamins right down to the hair roots to make his coat even stronger, softer and shinier.

Let’s face it – when you give your dog a bath, the odds are that you’re probably getting one too! So, make it more comfortable for both of you, and use lukewarm water, and a non-slip surface for you both to stand on.

When you are shampooing your dog, make sure you place cotton balls inside your dogs ears to prevent any shampoo or water from getting inside. Just a little bit could be enough to cause an infection. Wet your dog all over, apply the shampoo evenly over his body, and lather thoroughly. Another method is to dilute the shampoo in a bucket of warm water and gently pour this solution over him, massaging as you go. (This works particularly well for densely-coated breeds). Make sure you rinse him well (when you feel you’ve rinsed him completely, rinse him again) to remove all of the shampoo from his coat. Even though he will try to “help” the drying process by shaking when you least expect it, you can prevent this by simply encircling his snout gently with your hand. A dog starts his shake from his nose, so this little trick will ensure that he literally cannot start the shake until you’ve cleared the area!

If your dog has a long or dense coat which tends to get tangled, it’s a great idea to massage a creme rinse conditioner into his coat after shampooing, and rinse out. You can also finish off with your favorite flavor of spritz. He’ll be super soft and silky when you brush him next time!

Mani-Pedi (and Ear Cleaning) Time

After you’re done shampooing, take a look inside your dog’s ears. Make sure to keep his ear canals free of hair, to allow air to circulate and prevent them from staying moist. You can do this by gently clipping out the hair or plucking the hair with tweezers. Make sure you only grab a few hairs at a time, or it will hurt. If he has particularly dirty or waxy ears, clean them with an ear cleaning solution. Squeeze some solution into his ear, massage the ear base to move it around, then gently wipe it out with cotton balls. Never use Q-Tips in a dog’s ear – if he moves his head, you could injure his eardrum.

Even though you may fear the thought of clipping your dog’s toenails, with a little bit of patience (and practice), you’ll be able to give your dog a nice pedicure, no problem. Go slowly: many dogs hate having their toenails cut, and as a result, twist or pull their feet away, which could wind up in injury.

Use good quality clippers and make sure they’re sharp. Cheaper clippers often crush the nail before they cut, and this hurts.

If you’re new to cutting your dog’s nail, go slowly and conservatively – most people fear cutting into the quick, which grows WITH the nail – which means, staying on top of nail trims becomes important for keeping nails short. If you let the nails grow long, don’t expect to be able to cut them short right away. You can only cut to where the quick ends. Clipping your dog’s nails is relatively easy if your dog has white toenails – you can see the pink blood vessel and avoid cutting into it. Black toenails are harder. It’s better to err on the side of caution, and nibble away at the nail, a little at a time.

If you do happen to cut the quick, you’ll know about it right away – your dog will probably yelp as it does sting, and it seems to bleed a lot! It’s handy to have some styptic powder in your grooming kit for just such occasions. Sprinkle a little on the bleeding nail and it will stop very quickly.

Long haired dogs also look tidier if you trim the hair around and between the toes with scissors.

And if your dog’s paws are feeling rough and ragged, be sure to heal and protect them. Try SheaPet Shea Butter and Aloe Treatment Balm which is a quick relief soothing treatment for dry, cracked noses and paws. casino aussie

Posted in Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Living Green, Pet Owners, Skin Care | No Comments »

What makes a quality dog shampoo?

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011

We are passionate about animals: especially the dogs, cats, and horses who share our lives, our homes, and our beds (well, hopefully your horses aren’t sharing your bed!). Because our pets are family members too, we feel that they deserve nothing but the best. This is why we do what we do: simply, to create the best, most animal- and eco-friendly grooming formulas for our pets. (Not to mention, for you too: we won’t tell anyone if you steal your dog’s Mango Tango – and you probably will, once you get a whiff of the delicious fragrance!)

Over the years, we’ve gotten a lot of questions about what exactly makes earthbath a top-quality shampoo and what differentiates earthbath from the other brands on the market. When we started, we were asking these questions too, because we wanted to ensure we created the best product possible.

A high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner must always have a few vitally important components:

1) A pH value that is especially formulated for a dog’s delicate skin (between 6.5 to 7.5), since a dog’s skin pH is more neutral than a human’s. The pH of dog’s skin is about 7.5 where a human’s skin is about 5.5, on the standard pH scale from 0 to 14. The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. A pH of 7 is neutral (pure water has a pH of 7.0). A pH less than 7 is acidic, where each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, pH 4 is ten times more acidic than pH 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than pH 6. The same holds true for pH values above 7, each of which is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value.

A dog’s skin is very close to a neutral pH, and significantly more alkaline than human skin, so the kind of shampoo you use on your dog should be much more neutral in pH than the typical pH value of shampoo formulated for human hair (“pH balanced” shampoos for humans are around 4.5-5.5, making them much more acidic, and ultimately very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin). Over time, acidic shampoos also strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Never use human shampoo on your dog… even though it’s okay to use your dog’s shampoo (as long as it’s earthbath :-) ) on your hair – the alkalinic nature of earthbath shampoo will not hurt your hair, and in fact, is milder than the mildest baby shampoo! All of earthbath shampoos are formulated with a pH as close to 7.0 as possible.

2) Mild cleansing ingredients; ideally soap-free. Soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue. All earthbath products are soap-free; the cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.

3) Easy to rinse out so nothing is left behind on the fur or skin. earthbath worked with veterinarians & groomers to develop ultra-mild shampoos that wash out super easily, with ingredients that are 100% natural, non-toxic, paraben-free, phthalate-free, animal-byproduct-free, and phosphate-free. Even if a tiny bit is left behind, there is nothing harmful in earthbath products to irritate your dog’s skin or fur, and you don’t need to worry about upset tummies following any licking or grooming! Since there is nothing artificial or harmful (to either plants or animals) in our products you never have to worry about the effect giving your dog a bath has on the environment either!

4)  Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners to help the skin and coat maintain their healthy feel and shine. earthbath products contain all-natural ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal, both recommended by veterinarians to effectively combat skin irritation, promote healing, and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin. Almost all of our shampoos contain aloe vera for extra moisturizing, including our bestselling Clear Advantages, and our Hypo-Allergenic, just for those extra-sensitive or allergic dogs. Though all of earthbath shampoos are effective and mild, if you have a dog plagued by the itchies, you’ll definitely want to check out our Oatmeal and Aloe shampoo.

People-Tested & Pet Approved!™

Really…

We aren’t kidding when we say “People-Tested!”  Our CEO Paul personally tests every product on himself, and many people write to tell us how their whole family uses earthbath Puppy (“we LOVE the cherry scent!”)/Mango Tango (“it smells better than any other shampoo I’ve ever bought!”)/Green Tea Leaf (“hands down, my favorite!”)/or one of our other twelve shampoos! Try one today and tell us which one you love most!casino aussie

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Posted in Canine Health, Cats, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Living Green, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

Love your pet but sick of sneezing? Shed those allergies!

Tuesday, February 1st, 2011

If you have pets but are also plowing through a jumbo multi-pack of Kleenex on a daily basis, you’re not alone. Over ten million Americans (many of whom are also pet owners) suffer from pet allergies. This means that there are a lot of people out there sneezing, itching, breaking out in hives,  and coughing every time they go near a dog or cat.  Though many conventional doctors will say: if you know you are allergic to _x_ (whether it be cats, dogs, peanuts, pollen, or feathers), then avoid __x__! For many allergic animal lovers, this form of “treatment” is out of the question. As one of these people myself, who has been horribly allergic to cats my whole life, but then adopted one lovable furball, and then another (for good measure), I paid as much attention to my doctor’s suggestion to “get rid of the allergen-producing stimulus [AKA: my cats]” as I would have if she would have said to give up my own children.

So, what did I do? Research. And then I took action. And I’m happy to say that I’ve lived over 10 years, nearly allergy-free, with my two cats, and have subsequently acquired two very furry, fluffy, dander-producing dogs within the last year.

I’m happy to share the fruits of my research labors and the steps I took to help my allergies with you, in the hopes that I may help prevent an unnecessary pet surrender to an animal shelter following the discovery that someone in the family is “allergic” to him.

The first thing to arm yourself with is knowledge. Most people think that pet allergies are caused by animal hair, thinking that the shorter haired dogs or cats may be better choices for those prone to allergies, but this is not actually the case (and the cause of many animal surrenders, following an ill- or non-informed adoption).  Pet allergies are actually the result of an inappropriate immune response to molecules that are secreted by oil glands, found in the saliva, and shed with dander (dead skin cells). Cat allergies are particularly intense because cats have a certain protein (known as Fel-D-1) in their saliva, which is the substance that most people who are allergic to pets react to.  The cat hair is a carrier for the dander and saliva (since cats clean themselves frequently by licking) because this particular allergen in cat saliva dries on the fur and then becomes airborne, ready to irritate nasal passages and your eyes!

Now what to do about preventing those allergens from getting to you…

1) HEPA Filters! Though somewhat pricey at first, these HEPA filter products in air purifiers and vacuums absolutely work. Vacuums with HEPA filters trap up to 99.9% of allergy-causing dander and dust mites. But remember to clean the filters and replace regularly! Other kinds of vacuums simply suck up the debris, and then spew it all out the back, in finer particles. Take a look at what happens the next time you vacuum with a non-HEPA vacuum, seriously. It’s gross.

2) Keep your bedroom pet-free. Ok, this one is hard, and I admit to ruling with this “no cats in the bed” iron fist for the first year I had my first cat, but then succumbed. When the second one came along, there was nowhere else to put her in my two-room apartment during the sensitive and slow “introduction period” between the two cats: They both needed their own space, after all! Once our second cat was “raised” from kittenhood in the bedroom, she never left. And of course, the other cat couldn’t then be excluded… how fair would that be?!

So if you can’t (or don’t want to) totally ban your pets from your bed, at least see #1 and buy an air purifier for your bedroom, and change the filter regularly. You can also encase your mattress and pillows in protective covers designed to prevent dust mites, dander, and other allergens from penetrating these porous materials. Ensure you wash your bedding at least once a week in hot water (or your washer’s “sanitize” setting, if you have a fancy new washing machine) to kill dust mites and eliminate allergens. Even if you don’t think that you have a dust mite allergy, they, or more specifically, their waste droppings (I know, TMI, but some necessary “I”!) are the cause of many problems including sinus infections, watery eyes and noses, rashes, eczema, and other respiratory ailments. Dust mites live off of dead skin cells (i.e. dander) shed from humans and pets, and they make their homes in mattresses, couches, and other cushy, warm places like pillows and carpets.  Because a typical used mattress may have up to ten million dust mites living in it, and a pillow that is only two years old can be composed of up to ten percent dust mite feces and carcasses (ewwwww!!), it’s also a good idea to get new bedding and pillows frequently.

3) Bathe your pets regularly and use wipes daily between baths! Grooming your dog or cat frequently, including brushing, using waterless grooming foams, and earthbath wipes washes off the dander on its fur. Bathing your pet also has another benefit: the primary reason for vet visits is due to skin problems from environmental allergies, which can be helped and even prevented by frequent baths with a mild, non-soap based cleanser, like the formulations found in the entire line of earthbath’s shampoos! We know that cats, in particular, don’t love bathtime, so here is where our wipes especially come in handy! They usually don’t mind a wipe-down, and generally, love to be brushed, both of which significantly reduce allergy-causing dander. Best, though, if someone with lesser or no allergies does the brushing.

4) Clean your house! Perhaps this one is a bit obvious, but dander, dust, and dust mites that are allowed to gather on furniture, in cracks and crevices, around the knick knacks and books are all going to contribute to the generally poor and allergy-producing condition of your interior environment. And no matter how much you vacuum, carpets are the worst at trapping large amounts of allergens, so to the degree you can replace the majority of your floor surfaces with mop-able hardwood floors, tiles, or even linoleum, the better off you’ll be. Other cleaning tips include

  • Vacuum carpets and furniture on a daily basis.
  • Vacuum curtains on a regular basis.
  • Dust with a microfiber cloth that picks up the dust and doesn’t just move it around.
  • Wipe down all surfaces on a weekly basis.

Long ago, my doctor actually told me to vacuum daily and mop as often as I could (daily if possible), and to be sure to mop the walls. Vacuum and mop DAILY? Mop the WALLS?! My solution: I hired a cleaning person. Works for me, and my four animals!  No more allergies and a side benefit – my house is spotless!casino aussie

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Posted in Canine Health, Cats, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Living Green, Natural Remedies, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

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