Archive for the ‘Pet News’ Category

Winter Paw Care: How To Protect Your Dog’s Feet

Monday, January 16th, 2012
Dog Paws Winter Care

"Give me five!" Make sure to keep those paws happy and healthy!

Results from a recently released study conducted by Japanese scientists at Tokyo’s Yamazaki Gakuen University suggest that dogs have special blood vessels in their feet that actually help protect them from the effects of snow and ice. The researchers propose a mechanism that they’ve termed a “counter-current heat exchange:” when a paw is cooled by contact with frozen ground, warmth from the arteries in the paw is transferred to the vessels in the paws which helps to keep the paw at a tolerable temperature. Of course, pads contain a lot of fatty tissue, which doesn’t freeze as easily as other kinds of tissue. In addition, the special blood vessels in the pads warm the blood before it flows back to the body – thus helping keep the dog’s body temperature from falling uncomfortably low.

Even though systems like this are seen in other animals, including penguins and foxes, many earthbath fans vehemently disagree with the thought that all dogs are cold-weather proof:

“Apparently, my pugs are lacking these vessels- one sniff of the cold air and they about face into the house. Then once outside they continually pick up alternate feet to avoid the frozen feet feeling.”

“Many short-haired dogs will not last more than 10 minutes in -35C before they start crying in pain and hopping about from foot to foot or leaving bits of skin frozen to the sidewalk.”

…and we too, have seen many dogs unhappily affected by the cold. Which brings us to our main point: take care of those little puppy paws in the winter months! We’ve got some easy tips for you to ensure that everyone is comfortable, even when the snow is blowing and the wind chill is dropping.

  • Trim the hair between the pads and around the feet to minimize the clinging of ice balls, salt crystals and de-icing chemicals that can dry on the skin.  Find a video on how to trim your dog’s paw hair at the bottom of this post.
  • After walks, use a basin of warm water and earthbath wipes to clean off stinging, irritated paws. After each walk, ensuring that your pet’s feet are washed and dried to remove ice, salt and chemicals will help make sure they stay comfortable and dry.
  • Check for cracks in paw pads or redness between the toes, and if you see signs of irritation or dryness, massage in a little SheaPet Aloe and Shea Butter Treatment Balm to soothe those toes. Just as with human skin, moisturizing after a walk through the ice and snow will always help prevent chapped paws. Best not to use petroleum jelly or other potentially toxic-when-ingested lubricating agents, as dogs like to lick their paws!
  • Booties help minimize contact with painful salt crystals, poisonous anti-freeze and chemical ice-melting agents. They can also help prevent sand and salt from getting lodged in between bare toes and pads, causing irritation.
  • Make sure to use pet-friendly ice melts whenever possible, even though you can’t control what your neighbors or your city uses on sidewalks and streets.
  • And remember, if the weather’s too cold for you, it’s probably too cold for your dog. Animal companions should remain indoors as much as possible during the winter months.

Natural Remedies: Acupuncture For Your Pet?

Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011

Pain, arthritis, digestive problems, kidney failure, allergies, anxiety: these are just some of the ailments and illnesses that acupuncture can effectively treat.

…in animals.

Did you think I was talking about acupuncture for human maladies? You wouldn’t be wrong if so: just as in humans, acupuncture can effectively heal and even reverse many of the similar diseases and symptoms that afflict pets.  Even though acupuncture has been used on people for thousands of years in China, it wasn’t so long ago that the Western world only thought of acupuncture as that weird looking, slightly skin-crawling concept of sticking needles all over one’s body, and… eeek… leaving them there. But the results were solid, people started feeling better, yoga devotees, health fanatics and soccer moms alike started swearing by the treatment, acupuncturists proliferated, and techniques in alternative medicine became commonplace. And as holistic therapies become more and more common for people in the West, so too are they becoming accepted forms of treatment for pets here too (though according to the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society, acupuncture has been used on animals for at least 3000 years!).

How does acupuncture work?

The principle of acupuncture is based on the belief that a being’s overall physical, mental, and emotional health depends on the state of its Qi or chi, thought of as an indeterminate and immeasurable life force of vital energy that flows throughout the body. If anything blocks the flow of chi, such as bacteria, virus, inflammation, etc., pain and illness can manifest in a number of ways.

Nerve endings in the body contain trigger points or “acupoints” which are stimulated by specifically-placed acupuncture needles to help release endorphins, reduce swelling, relieves spasms, and ultimately, restores the flow of energy, or chi, through the body to provide relief from pain.

Veterinary acupuncture sessions can last from 10 to 60 minutes, depending on the animal’s condition and sensitivity. Veterinarians assess the dog’s condition and ailments, and place the needles accordingly. For example, when searching for the underlying cause of disease, Chinese medicine practitioners will often start with inserting acupuncture needles at the “liver points.” Because the liver filters over a liter of blood every minute, it is responsible for detoxifying, nourishing, replenishing, and storing blood. So it’s not a stretch to believe that the health of one’s liver is a reflection of one’s overall health and well-being. According to the philosophy of Chinese medicine, the liver is responsible for the smooth flow of energy throughout the body, so stimulating these points will help release general blockages and stimulate free flow of chi, which will help heal other ailments throughout the body.

What does acupuncture treat (in humans and animals!)?

  • Musculoskeletal problems: Acupuncture is probably best known for treating these kinds of problems, including pain, stiffness, spinal disc problems, soreness, back and neck pain, degenerative joint disease (like hip and elbow dysplasia), osteoarthritis, and sports injuries.
  • Neurological disorders: Seizures, some paralysis
  • Digestive Problems: Gastric ulcers, vomiting, constipation (the ultimate blockage!), diarrhea, etc.
  • Chronic Conditions: Behavioral and emotional problems like aggressiveness, anxiety, irritation; asthma, allergies, hypo and hyperthyroidism, and skin problems.

How to find a qualified veterinary acupuncturist?

Only licensed veterinarians can practice acupuncture on pets in most states in the U.S., and in those that don’t require a veterinarian acupuncturist also have a veterinary license, it is HIGHLY advisable to seek one out with a license regardless! To find a vet who performs acupuncture and has successfully completed an approved veterinary acupuncture course, contact the American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture or the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society.

Have you ever used acupuncture on your pet? What did you use it to treat? Please share your story with us in the comments below!

Why is my dog itching? — Identifying and Preventing Pet Allergies

Monday, August 8th, 2011

Your dog is scratching constantly, rolling around in the dirt more than usual, licking its paws, and biting himself like he’s his own vicious enemy.

It’s clear he’s uncomfortable and itchy, but why? It’s probably dog allergies. But is it due to pollen, food, dust mites … or your other pets? There are nearly endless possibilities.

We help you narrow it down to the likeliest ones. Once you know what’s causing your dog to itch, you can take action to provide your dog with some much-needed relief.

First, does your dog itch all year-round, or just in certain seasons?

Seasonal dog allergies. Seasonal environmental triggers are the most common cause of dog itching and scratching. Allergies usually develop after a couple of years of exposure, if they’re going to develop at all. It’s still unknown as to why one individual will develop allergies, while the next one won’t.  Just like in humans, genetics are thought to play a part, since allergies often run in families. Repeated exposure is important, too.

If you’re desperate to pinpoint the specific cause of seasonal allergies in your dog, your vet can do a “scratch test” (again, similar to the kind of test you’d take yourself to find out what you’re allergic to). Extracts of different pollens and allergens are injected just under a shaved area of skin, and reactions are noted a few minutes later.

Treatments:

You should consult your vet to determine the exact reason your dog may be itching, and for specific prescribed treatment of any identified allergies or problems like hot spots. However, using earthbath wipes frequently: after every outside excursion, before you notice your dog starting to try to clean himself, and before bed each night, can really reduce the pollen that clings to your dog’s fur, reducing the likelihood that allergies will develop.

Frequent baths are important, especially in the summer, when everyone is outside playing more. If you’ve never bathed your dog yourself, check our DIY how-to guide in which we take you through it, step-by-step! Using earthbath shampoos with itch-soothing ingredients like Oatmeal and Aloe, Tea Tree and Aloe, or Eucalyptus and Peppermint (great for soothing bug bites and general dermatitis) can really help calm the itchies.

Chances are, the itchies will disappear as fast as the summer sun does, but if not, note that there are only a few causes of year-round canine allergies:

Food: This is the first thing many people think of as causing canine allergies, but it’s actually one of the least likely. True food allergies are uncommon in dogs, with only about 15% of allergic dogs being allergic to certain ingredients. That said, there are some ingredients that some dogs are more sensitive to than others: like humans who are sensitive or downright intolerant of wheat, many dogs are allergic to wheat gluten. Sensitivity to corn and soy can also crop up fairly frequently:  If you have an itchy dog, start eliminating foods containing soy, corn, and wheat.

Try switching to a food with a different protein source or with a different grain content. Test this food for 6 weeks and see if there’s any difference in your dog’s itchiness.

Also, to prevent food allergies, one of the best things you can do is give your dog some variety in his diet. The more exposure to an ingredient, the more likely an allergy will develop — so change it up — not only will his tastebuds thank you (wouldn’t you get bored of eating the same thing day after day? Thought so. So does your dog.), but so will his state of health.

Mold. If you live somewhere humid, or if your kitchen and bathroom are unventilated, mold spores may be causing dog allergies (if they aren’t already causing allergies in you!)  Mold grows wherever and whenever there is moisture. Depending on where you live and what your drainage conditions are like, this can be seasonal or year-round.

What to do? If you live in a humid environment, or if summers get rather damp around your neck of the woods, keep the humidity low in your house by using a dehumidifier and/or air conditioner. Fix leaks when you notice them Use the exhaust fan in the bathroom after showering, and, when cooking, use your stove air vent.

Other animals. You may not be the only one who’s allergic to your cat!  Dogs can become allergic to the potent and persistent allergen known as FelD1, found in cat saliva. When the cat licks himself, the saliva dries and flakes off, then floats away.  It’s no wonder there are so many people (and dogs) with allergies to cats: FelD1 is very lightweight and very sticky. It sticks to walls, furniture, carpet and drapes. It also can stay active in a home environment for at least 10 years (yikes!).

As with cats, even people, other dogs, birds, and any other furry critters (rabbits, hamsters, weasels, ferrets, etc.) are possible allergy-inducers. Again, keeping everybody clean makes a difference: no skimping on earthbaths! Also keep in mind that long-haired or fluffy dogs can easily track pollen in on their fur. Even short-haired dogs aren’t immune: pollen clings to their coat easily, even if it may not look like it.  One good shake and it spreads throughout the house.

Treatments:

Wipe-down:  Keep a box of earthbath wipes by the door and in the car and wipe your dogs down before they come inside. Since earthbath makes four different varieties (Green Tea, Mango Tango, Cherry (Puppy), and Hypo-Allergenic), you’ll be able to keep a different flavor at every entry point! Make sure you get between their pads as well as a quick rub down all over their coat. This will greatly reduce the amount of pollen that clings to their fur.

earthbaths!: Bathe your animals regularly, including your cats, and use wipes to rub them down frequently, especially after they clean themselves. For a great “how-to” guide on bathing your cat yourself, check out our blog post which has a lot of great tips on corralling your kitty in the bath! Good thing earthbath has a great cat shampoo (with a delectable cherry scent) and cat wipes (in both Green Tea and Hypo-Allergenic varieties)!

Clean your house: Obviously “fluffy” surfaces like carpets, drapes, pillows, bedding, and fabric couches trap dander much easier and in greater volumes than wipeable surfaces (like wood floors, tile, stone, blinds, leather, etc.) but in both cases, consistent and thorough cleaning can help keep dander at bay.

Purify the air: HEPA air filters are really effective in trapping large amounts of allergens, including pollen, cat allergens, and other air pollutants. Invest in a great quality air purifier, and ensure your vacuum has a HEPA filter as well.

Have you noticed an increase in allergies this summer? How do you deal with them? Share your tips with us! If you leave a comment below and post it to Facebook, you may receive a little earthbath surprise from us!

L’Eau de Carcass: Why your dog loves to roll in it

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011

Back in April of this year, after being utterly revolted by our previously pristine diva-of-a-puppy rolling ecstatically in god-knows-what-filth she found on the ground, we did some research into why (…oh WHY?!) dogs find the grossest, smelliest, gooiest things on the ground apparently irresistible. We didn’t get very far. Basically, the upshot was: no one knows, but there are some theories, the dominant one of which is that it’s a holdover instinct from their wolf ancestors, who would roll in carcasses for unknown reasons. (Note that this behavior isn’t unique to wolves and dogs either, evidenced by the photo above… yes, that’s a bear, rolling in bison urine.)  As to WHY animals roll in disgusting and dead things, most think it’s due to one or more of the following reasons:

1) To learn about the substance

2) To cover up their own scent (for purposes of predation)

3) To communicate to others what they’ve found (note that this negates theory #2)

and/or

4) To claim the carcass as their own – apparently – by wearing it.

None of these theories have been convincingly supported (though all of them sound fairly plausible, if you’re thinking like a wolf).

To date, there are still no known similar studies in domestic dogs, unfortunately. However, more research has unearthed (pun completely intended!) two fairly comprehensive, and complementary, studies conducted on “scent-rubbing” behavior in wolves and hyenas (two species that are closely related to domestic dogs). Note that “scent rubbing” is different from “scent-marking,” which transfers the animal’s individual scent to the environment, most effectively accomplished by  urinating and defecating, but also by rubbing up against things.  A study of wolves and another study in hyenas showed that scent-rubbing is an “unconditioned response”, which means that it’s an instinct, simple as that.  As to what their scent preferences are? They range from the moderately yucky (cigarette ashes) to increasingly unpalatable (rotten fruit) to downright nauseating (decomposing animals).

More interesting, and new to note from these studies, are the specific preferences the animals exhibited -  for type of odor, behavioral response to the odor, and also… lack of habituation to certain scents. This means that one theory can be discounted: scent-rubbing has likely NOT evolved to serve the purpose of obtaining specific information about the thing that’s being rubbed upon. If the purpose of scent rubbing was for the animal to learn about the stinky thing (theory #1 above), then repeated exposure to it would lead to a decrease in rubbing against it (because the information about it had already been learned). That didn’t happen.

Another theory: that dogs scent-rub to “camouflage” their own odors (theory #2 above), is also probably not the reason for rolling in yuck. This theory sounds good from an evolutionary principle: camouflaging themselves with the scent of a harmless animal would not raise suspicion in the prey animals that would otherwise run once they got whiff o’ wolf.

How did this theory get discounted? Well, the researchers carefully selected four different kinds of odoriferous substances that they “coated the ground” with. In four separate areas of a field, the researchers spread four different types of nastiness: 1) carnivore feces (black bear and cougar scat), 2) herbivore feces (sheep and horse feces), 3) smelly food (tuna oil and salt pork), and 4) ‘manufactured scents’ (motor oil and a cheap but very strong perfume). The wolves were let loose and their behavior around each of these substances was carefully observed and noted.

In contradiction to what the researchers originally thought would happen, the wolves showed a consistently strong preference for rubbing themselves into some substances and not to others, with manufactured odors (the perfume and the motor oil) eliciting the strongest “rolling” response. Interesting. Can’t say I saw that one coming from an evolutionary point of view, given that these substances aren’t even natural. However, this response might in fact help substantiate theory #1 – learning about a new or novel substance introduced to the environment. Given that such human-made substances wouldn’t naturally show up in the wild, it seems very plausible that an animal would want to gather as much information as it could about the stimulus. However, just to be contradictory, this thinking is just as easily dismissed, because the wolves didn’t show a decreased preference to rub against these substances even after they had done so previously (ostensibly after they had already gathered all of the information they could).

However, carnivore feces had them rolling in ecstasy too, but, oddly, not herbivore feces. And the wolves weren’t interested in rolling in the  food products either, although they were happy to lick at or even eat the tuna oil and salted pork (the study proves one thing: even wolves love bacon).

If the “camouflaging for purposes of predation” hypothesis were true, then wouldn’t it be much better for a wolf to disguise itself in sheep’s clothing (or poo) to sneak up on a sheep, rather, than, oh, a predator equal to or worse than itself: i.e., bear or cougar?! This would suggest that the wolf would prefer the herbivore feces to carnivore feces, but the opposite happened.

The scientists behind the hyena study, on the other hand, actually showed really good evidence of theory #3 – that rolling around in rotten things serves  an important social function: the information is contained in the odor would be conveyed from one hyena to another, when they greeted each other. Similar to dogs, hyenas greet each other by mutually sniffing and inspecting each other’s face, neck, mouth, and head region, as well as the all-important “flank and behind” area.

The researchers took this information and performed a simple experiment and observed the results. They took one group of hyenas and doused them down with “eau de carrion” and introduced them to another group of normal hyenas, and compared the results with introductions between hyenas who had no scents (or a neutral non-animal based scent) forced upon them. The hyenas perfumed with carcass-odor received significantly more attention than did the neutrally-scented or non-odor-donning hyenas. In fact, the hyenas “wearing” the eau-de-carcass received more positive social interactions and receptiveness from the other hyenas.

The researchers of the wolf study did not take their observations to this level, that is, to re-introduce the odor-wearing wolves back into their non-odor-wearing brethren and observe the results in comparison to non-odoriferous wolves, though it is likely that they would see similar reactions between the group, substantiating the behavioral outcome across at least two species.

All of these results suggest that rolling around in disgusting muck serves probably no other purpose than to convey interesting information back to the pack, and perhaps, elevate the carrion-bearer’s status a bit within the group at least for a time, since the wearer probably does, in fact, own it (the carcass, that is). For those of us human members of our dogs’ “pack,” we receive the information they return to us with great disgust, outrage, and aggravation, much to their (likely) confusion.

Regardless of the reasons, the outcome is clear: Into the bath we go — it’s time for another earthbath!

Sources:

Drea CM, Vignieri SN, Cunningham SB, Glickman SE. (2002) Responses to olfactory stimuli in spotted hyenas (Crocuta crocuta): I. Investigation of environmental odors and the function of rolling. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 116(4):331-41.

Ryon, J., Fentress, J.C., Harrington,  F. H., Bragdon, S. (1986). Scent rubbing in wolves (Canis lupus): the effect of novelty. Canadian Journal of Zoology, 64:(3) 573-577.

*Photo credit: The Wild Photographer: Larry Thorngren

Preventing Doggy Swimmer’s Ear!

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

Summertime brings with it longer days, sun-drenched vacations, and necessary escapes to the nearest body of water to cool down. For dogs who like to hit the lake, beach, or pool with you, this increased time in the water also increases the risk of painful ear infections.

When water enters the ear canal, the perfect environment – dark and wet – is created for bacterial and yeast to grow in. Dogs swim “doggy paddle” style, with their head above water, but that doesn’t mean that water won’t splash up into their ears, and sometimes, dogs submerge themselves to fetch a stick or water toy.

To prevent ear infections in your dog, you can always proactively place cotton balls in their ears (pre-swim and definitely pre-bath), but after a swim or bath, make sure to dry out the insides of your dog’s ears as thoroughly as you can with a towel or more cotton balls. Never use q-tips because it’s just too easy to puncture their delicate ear drum.

Floppy-eared dogs are most at risk for ear infections, because those lovable floppy ear flaps can prevent your dog’s ears from air-drying after a swim, so if your dog has two of these (floppy ears, that is), take extra-special care to ensure they are dried out as much as possible!

Your veterinarian can even prescribe a special ear wash that you can apply weekly or even monthly to help keep ears clean and free of waxy buildup and bacterial and yeast growth – so if you think your dog would be a good candidate for something like this, ask your vet!

Head-Scratching Symptoms?

If your dog starts shaking his head repeatedly or without any discernible cause (or effect), starts scratching at his ears, or if you see any redness inside his ears, it’s definitely time to call the vet. It’s easy enough to treat an ear infection in dogs (just as it is in humans), but if they are left untreated, they can spread deeply inside the ear canal and become extremely painful. It’s up to you to notice any changes in your dog’s behavior and appearance, to ensure he’s his most comfortable and happy, since your dog isn’t going to start speaking English anytime soon (though you may be fluent in “dog”).