Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Summer Coat Care for Dog Paddlers!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Remember back when you used to go swimming every day during summer… until your hair turned green from all the chlorine? And then you learned – always to rinse after swimming (good), wash (better), or pre-condition your hair before taking a dip (best).

Just because your dog may not be mortified by suddenly morphing locks of green, this doesn’t mean you can (or should) ignore summer swim coat care for him, just as you wouldn’t ignore proper summer hair care protection for yourself!

If your dog loves jumping in the lake, cavorting on the beach, or even diving into the pool, that summer splash factor can wreak havoc on your dog’s shiny coat and itch-free skin unless you take some simple grooming precautions.

For Pool Pooches:

Chlorine is notoriously drying – and dogs aren’t immune to its parching effects either. Dogs who join you in your backyard pool are likely to be more prone to itchy, dry skin and a dull, dry coat because the pool chemicals strip the skin and coat of their naturally protective oils. Remember, too, that a dog’s skin is more sensitive than human skin, with a pH that is nearly neutral (like pure water) – human skin pH is much more acidic, so we can tolerate the harsher acidity of chemicals (like chlorine) much better than our dogs.

Chlorine could even change the color of your dog’s coat: it could affect dark coats by dulling and even bleaching them out, and even turn those platinum blondes (hey golden retrievers, yellow labs, and snow white malteses – we’re talking to you!) green!

How to avoid these pool pitfalls? Just follow these three simple things:

1) Spray down your dog with a coat conditioner like any of our earthbath spritzes before he hits the pool. This conditioning spray will help create a barrier of protection for both his skin and coat from the drying effects of the chlorine.

2) After every swim, rinse him down thoroughly with pure, cool water. Rinse well longer than you think is necessary just so you ensure all pool chemicals and chlorine is completely gone. Towel dry, and then, if you have time (for an even better protective effect), follow with another spritz of earthbath conditioning spritz in your favorite scent! Comb through to get out any mats before they worsen, and to distribute the conditioning spray evenly.

3) Once a week, comb your dog out completely and bathe him thoroughly with any of earthbath’s gentle shampoos and follow with a conditioner. This will ensure any remaining chemical residue is completely washed out, and will also re-moisturize his coat.

Bow Wow, Beach Dog

Though saltwater and a day in the sun can create perfect “sun-kissed beach hair” for us girls, that same sun, salt, and sand can result in nothing but an itchy mess for your dog unless you prep with a few key items:

1) Prep with a moisturizing conditioner or conditioning spray to protect his skin and coat.

2) Before you leave your day at the beach, make sure to give your dog a thorough brushing to get all the sand and grit out of his coat. Brush against the direction of hair growth, and then with it. Then give him a thorough rinsing in those beach showers – rinse him down completely to get rid of any remaining sand and rinse all of the salt out.

3) If he’s still itching later, or perhaps feels a bit grimy or sticky… it’s time for an earthbath! earthbath oatmeal and aloe or tea tree and aloe shampoos are perfect for itchy dogs, as these natural healers will help to soothe itchy spots and areas of discomfort. Generally, if your dog is spending a lot of time with you outdoors and especially at the beach, lake, or pool, a bath once a week as a necessity to keep him clean and comfortable. Definitely make sure to condition, so you’re protecting his skin and coat every time you shampoo. A perfect spritz for hot, itchy dogs is SheaPet’s Herbal Hot Spot & Itch Relief Moisturizing Treatment with Shea Butter & Tea Tree Oil Spritz, a great leave-on herbal skin tonic and coat conditioner.

4) Keep in mind what hot sand does to tender paws! Apply a soothing shea butter balm like SheaPet Aloe and Treatment Balm which is great to heal cracked pads, sun-sore noses, and hot spots.

“Freshwater” Fidos

Unfortunately, freshwater streams, lakes, and rivers are not quite as pristine as you’d like to believe.  Which doesn’t matter to your dog – who (we know from experience) would relish any opportunity to roll in a mud puddle – or to you, if you’re one of the majority of us who live near a body of water that is not an ocean.  Lakes, rivers, and streams are a blast to play in, but many of them contain fairly high levels of algae, sludge, pollutants, bugs, and even leeches!

This means – any dip in the lake should be followed by a full-fledged earthbath afterwards. Take care to observe all of the usual steps you’d take prior to bathing your dog – comb him out thoroughly to remove any mats or tangles, wet him down thoroughly, and scrub him to the skin with a gentle but effective shampoo. Remoisturize with conditioner.

If you’re hitting the pool, lake, or ocean frequently, it’s more important than ever to be using products that won’t strip away the natural oils of the coat and skin – which could do even more damage than not bathing your dog at all. That’s why, if you’re armed with earthbath, you can bathe as often as you like, and never have to worry about irritations!  The only thing you have to concern yourself with, is which of our 11 delicious fragrance options to use… this time!

And with that, the sun’s shining so… we’re off to the beach!

 

Pet Travel Essentials

Wednesday, July 6th, 2011

If you’re going to be road-tripping (or even heading out for a fun day in the sun) with your pet this summer, don’t forget your dog-specific travel supplies! We’ve compiled a list of the 8 most important items to ensure you both make the most of your day(s) off without any hassles or health trip-ups!

Make sure you bring along:

  • Travel dog bowls and clean water:  Don’t let your dog drink out of city puddles, or mountain-fresh streams and rivers. The same Giardia parasite you’re avoiding by not drinking out of streams and rivers could also infect your dog, along with a whole other host of worms and parasitic nastiness that you really don’t want to get involved with! Leptospirosis is a deadly disease that is easily picked up by dogs when they sniff or drink out of puddles or still water that has been contaminated by leptospirosis-infected urine (often carried by rodents, raccoons, skunks, etc). Vets see a lot of cases of leptospirosis in late summer and fall, particularly in places where it rains heavily. Scarily, not all dogs infected with this bacteria show any symptoms, yet if left untreated, it can eventually cause kidney failure and death. Prevent water-borne diseases and parasites in your pets by carrying your own water, so they won’t be tempted to drink out of mud puddles! Collapsible/foldable dog bowls or refillable doggy water bottles are easy to find, and quick and simple to pack along on any trip, from your daily neighborhood walk (critical in the summer heat) to car rides to longer hikes and travels.
  • Food: Depending on how long you’ll be gone, your dog will need to replenish his energy stores, just as you do! And if you’re packing a picnic or BBQ supplies at the beach, don’t leave Fido hanging out hungry. Ensuring you’ve got food along just for him will stave off the temptation to let him share your feast (which could lead to tummy troubles later)!
  • Travel Wipes: For muddy trails, river crossings, and whatever other kinds of  “gunk” your dog gets into, it will make the car ride home a much more pleasant experience if you clean off your dog’s muddy paws with earthbath travel wipes, made just for situations like these!
  • Dog Cooling Bandannas or Wraps: If it’s very hot, or if you plan to walk or hike several miles, make sure your dog doesn’t get overheated. If you’re hiking, you can all go for a swim in the lake or streams (but watch that he doesn’t ingest the water!), or else, for a safer and more reliable approach, you can use one of the specially made wraps or bandannas that you soak in cool water, or even place in the fridge or cooler for an intensified chiller-effect, that expand, allowing the water-filled material to evaporate through the layers as airflow moves over it.
  • Flea, tick and mosquito protection: Summer is insect season, and if you’re heading out into the great outdoors, you’ll want to be sure and protect your pet from fleas, ticks, mosquitos, flies, and other biting insects. Check with your vet for the best product(s) for your pet’s special needs.
  • Sunscreen: A lot of people don’t think about it, but if your dog is short-haired, light-colored, or shaved, he is just as susceptible to painful sunburn and skin cancer as you are. That means as you slather yourself up with sunscreen, so should you slather your dog. In addition, even if your pet isn’t white or particularly short-haired, the tip of the nose, especially if it’s pale or white, is prone to sun-induced tumors, as are the tips of the ears (or any area which is sparsely covered in hair and the skin is thin). There are specific sunscreens designed for pets, but sensitive skin or baby sunscreens can be used as well. However, be careful with the sunscreen you use on your dog, because some ingredients can be toxic if they are licked off. Zinc oxide should never be used because dogs can become dangerously anemic if it is ingested.

  • Dog Pack or Saddle Bag: If your dog is going to be hiking along with you, depending on how far you’re going, he might as well carry his own weight! A travel bag specially made to be worn comfortably by your dog makes hiking and especially, backpacking, much easier on you, if he can carry his own food, water, treats, medications, dog bowls, wipes, and anything else he (or you) might need.
  • Watch for signs of overheating and heat exhaustion: Though not a material “item,” the best thing to bring along on any summertime adventure with your pet is constant vigilant awareness to your pet’s comfort level and state of energy. Remember, dogs only have their tongues to cool off, and an inexhaustible desire to “keep up” with you and please you. This means, unfortunately, that your dog will likely drive itself to complete exhaustion rather than prevent you from continuing your run/hike/walk/etc. So, it’s up to you to stop your dog before he gets to that unfortunate point.

    If panting isn’t enough to reduce their rising body temperature, the dog is in danger of developing heat stroke. Early signs of heat exhaustion include rapid breathing, heavy panting, and thick, ropy salivation. Other signs are fatigue, muscle tremors, and staggering/confusion. If you think your dog may be suffering from heat exhaustion, take him to a cool, shady place, and apply wet towels or cloths to help cool the dog’s body down. Don’t let the dog rapidly gulp water, as this can create shock in its body and make it even sicker. Give the dog small amounts of water, and immediately call a vet.

  • Finally, if it’s too hot for you, it’s WAY too hot for your dog. Wait until it cools off before you do anything active.

Pet Tips for the Fourth of July

Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

The Fourth of July is one of the most dreaded holidays, striking fear and terror into little hearts everywhere… and sometimes sending the bravest of them all scurrying to hide under the bed or into a closet. We are, of course, talking about how this holiday affects your pets. Though you (and especially your kids) love the festivity of fireworks, their deafening noises can scare the daylights out of your dog or cat.

In addition, amidst all of the holiday hubbub, it can be very easy to lose track of your pet and before you even realize it, your (frantic or terrified) dog or cat may have gone missing. In fact, the Humane Society of the United States reports that animal shelters across the country are used to receiving “July 4th Dogs:” dogs who run off during fireworks celebrations and are rescued by animal control officers or helpful citizens who take them to the safety of a local shelter.

We’ve compiled this list of precautions to protect your pet this holiday weekend, so everyone in your family can enjoy a fun and safe Fourth of July!

  • Don’t take your pet along with you to watch your city’s fireworks display. If you’re considering this idea, consider that to your pet, it will seem like they are being tortured, for no understandable reason. Pets LOVE routine, and in addition to routine, a nice CALM routine. To take them so far out of their comfort zone as to a city fireworks celebration will  be nothing but pure terrifying torture to your pet.  In some municipalities, pets aren’t even allowed. Remember how sensitive an animal’s hearing is, as compared to a human’s and be considerate of your pet’s comfort.
  • Keep your pets indoors at home in a sheltered, quiet area while you party. Even neighborhood firecrackers, loud music, and block party celebrations can scare pets. In this case, it’s best to keep your pet confined to a quiet room in the house that he feels comfortable in, with his bed, a lot of chew toys, and some comforting white noise left on, like the TV or music, to mask foreign noises, and to keep him company while you’re out. Remember too that some animals can become destructive when frightened, involuntarily eliminating or defecating in fear, or displacing their anxiety by chewing, scratching, digging, and so on, so be sure that you’ve removed any items in the room you leave your pet in that your pet could destroy or that would be harmful to your pet if he chewed it.
  • If your pet behaves nervously by pacing, whining or crying, distract her by playing with her or doing something she enjoys. Don’t pay extra-special attention to her by petting, holding, cooing at or otherwise babying her. This may actually reinforce her nervousness or fright.
  • Ensure your pet is safely confined in a spot they will feel comfortable in. Some pets can become so upset or frantic by loud noises that they simply want to bolt. Dogs can be very ingenious, and can find very clever ways to get out of rooms, houses, or fenced yards, only to become lost or worse. One such tragic story reported by the Humane Society recounted what happened when a 2 year old dog, left at home alone while her family was out for only four hours to celebrate the Fourth of July, escaped from the house and fenced backyard. The family returned home to feces on the living room floor, an open sliding glass door, and a hole under their fence. Only days later did they find their dog, dead, on the side of a road where she was often walked. “From what we can tell, when she heard the fireworks she freaked out and pooped on the floor inside—for the first time ever—then she opened the sliding glass door with her paw, and dug a hole outside our fence…. She went searching for us.”
  • If you know that your pet is seriously distressed by loud noises like thunder, and there is no safe/quiet haven in your house, consult with your veterinarian before July 4th for alternative ways to help alleviate the fear and anxiety he or she will experience during fireworks displays.
  • Never leave your pets outside unattended, even in a fenced yard. In their fear by the unusual loud noises and lights of fireworks, pets who normally wouldn’t leave the yard may escape and become lost. See the tragic story recounted above.
  • Don’t let your pet help you with the Bar-B-Q! This is a no-brainer, but keep your pet away from grills, charcoal and lighter fluid. Sunscreen, insect repellent and citronella candles can also hurt your pet.
  • Even though you’re indulging, resist the urge to indulge your pet! Your pet will most likely happily eat up anything you give him, but remember that onions, salt, avocados and chocolate can all be fatally toxic to dogs and cats. In all of the festivities and crazy activity, it can be hard to keep track of what your pet has eaten, or what guests have “spoiled” him with, and too much “people food” can make your pet very sick.
  • If you suspect that your pet has ingested a toxic substance, or is displaying signs of overindulgence: Contact your vet or the 24-hour Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435.
  • Make sure your pets are wearing identification tags so that if they do become lost, they can be returned promptly. Animals found running loose without any identification should be taken to the local animal shelter, where they will have the best chance of being reunited with their owners.

Six Steps to Prep a “Pet Emergency” Kit Today, for Peace of Mind Tomorrow!

Friday, October 22nd, 2010

We’ve all heard the sad stories of pets left behind in the wake of natural disasters, and the thought of being separated from our pets strikes fear into the heart of any loving pet parent. Emergencies come when you least expect them, and they may require anything from a brief absence from your home to a longer term absence or even permanent evacuation. The likelihood that you and your animals will survive an emergency such as a fire, earthquake, flood, tornado, or terrorist attack depends largely on the emergency planning you do today. The best thing you can do for yourself and your pets in the unlikely event of an emergency is to be prepared, so if and when that time ever comes, you don’t have to think, you can simply act on the plans you prepared long beforehand. We include six easy steps to follow today, so that if and when an emergency ever happens, you (and your pets) will be prepared!

Step 1   Get a Free Rescue Alert Sticker from the ASPCA
The ASPCA provides a free Rescue Alert Sticker that you can place on your door or window, externally visible, to let police, rescue workers and other people know that pets are inside your home. The information you should include is the type(s) and number(s) of pets in your home, and the name and phone number of your vet. If you must evacuate with your pets, and if time allows, write “EVACUATED” across the sticker. Click here to get a free emergency pet alert sticker.

Step 2   Make sure your pet has proper, updated identification at all times.
Microchipping your pet is an extra level of protection, above the ID tags he should be wearing at all times, to permanently identify your pet in the event you become separated, or if he becomes lost. A microchip is implanted in the animal’s shoulder area, and most veterinary clinics and animal shelters have scanners to check for microchips (and do so immediately), facilitating an easy and quick reunion with you. However, don’t rely on a microchip alone to protect your pet. Identification tags still remain the most immediate and easiest way to get your pet home. ID tags offer contact info immediately (to whomever may find your pet, that someone most likely won’t have a microchip reader), so they are often a better and quicker measure than microchipping. Using both is best! Your pet’s identification tags should contain the following information:

1) your pet’s name

2) your phone number and your name

3) any important medical needs

4) recent rabies vaccination/registration

In addition, be sure to write your pet’s name, your name and contact information on his carrier or crate.

Step 3   Plan ahead for an alternative “Safe Haven” for your pets and designate a temporary caregiver
In the event of evacuation, you should have a game plan for your pets, if it is impossible to take them with you. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND. Remember, if the situation isn’t safe for you, it isn’t safe for your pets. Not all Red Cross disaster shelters accept pets, so it is important that you don’t assume they will be able to go where you go.

  • Contact your veterinarian for a list of preferred pet sitters, or boarding facilities.
  • Ask your local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets.
  • Make a list of hotels or motels outside of your immediate area that accept pets (and plan to go there with them). Use a website such as Petswelcome.com, Dogfriendly, or one of the many searchable pet-friendly hotel sites available to find a nearby pet-friendly lodging.
  • Ask friends and relatives outside your immediate area if they would be willing to take in your pet.

Step 4  Put together a Pet Emergency Supply Kit
Keep an Emergency Travel Kit handy for your pets (and make one for you too, while you’re at it). Everyone in your house should know where the “emergency to-go bag” is, and it should be easily accessible and stored in a cool, dry place (i.e., don’t keep your emergency travel kit hidden away in the attic or beneath all of the Christmas decorations in the storage closet).  Since you’ll want to have your pet crates or carriers with you, it is ideal to keep the emergency travel kit with or near them.

Pet-related Items to keep in your supply kit (which should be a large weather- and water-proof bag) include:

  • Extra Food and Water: Several days to a week’s worth of canned (pop-top) and/or dry food (canned food keeps longer than dry: keep your dry food supply pretty fresh, replacing every 2 months), keep at least a week’s worth of bottled water for every person and each pet on hand, also replacing every two months. Don’t forget the travel bowls!
  • Cleanup Supplies: Disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect), Paper towels or litter, Poop Bags/disposable garbage bags, Liquid dish soap and disinfectant, cleanup/grooming wipes (earthbath wipes are perfect!).
  • Towels and Blankets: In a pinch, spare towels can make an impromptu bed and hopefully retain some of the scents of home and comfort a pet.
  • Treats and Toys: Keep some treats,  chewies, an old favorite toy, and some new special toys to occupy and soothe a stressed pet.
  • Extra harness, leash, and muzzle: This is a perfect place to store an older but still functioning style when you upgrade to a new, stylish model. Also, it doesn’t hurt to have a muzzle on hand, even if you don’t normally use it. Injured or stressed pups can be more prone to bite or bark, and, if emergency means you are stuck somewhere pets aren’t normally allowed, having a muzzle provides added protection for everyone around.
  • Medical Records and Medicines: Photocopies of medical records including vaccination records health needs, and vet contact info (and don’t forget to update with a new copy after each checkup)! Also include a sheet with the names and contact information for at least three emergency contacts (including one outside of the area).
    • A waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)
    • Pet First Aid book and first aid kit including essentials such as alcohol and iodine prep solutions, ointments, gauze, bandages, gloves, scissors, and tweezers
  • Crate or sturdy carrier for each pet
  • Flashlight
  • Recent photos of your pets including their names, any distinguishing traits/identifying features (including behavior information), along with your contact information including email and cell phone.
  • Especially for cats: Pillowcases, toys, catnip, scoopable litter
  • Especially for dogs: Long leash and yard stake, toys and chew toys, a week’s worth of cage liner.

Step 5  Evacuation Preparation
If you must evacuate your home in a crisis, plan for the worst-case scenario.  It’s often the case that people minimize the extent of the emergency they may be caught in at first and think they may be gone for only a day, but are caught unawares and are not allowed to return for several weeks.  Avoid this situation and prepare for the worst. Plan your evacuation route ahead of time, make sure you have your “to-go” bag ready, call your pet-friendly hotel, temporary caregiver or safe haven immediately to make arrangements for boarding, and follow the evacuation instructions of local and state officials, taking your pet with you.

Step 6 Plan for your specific geographic area and your climate

Do you live in an area that is prone to certain natural catastrophes, such as tornadoes, earthquakes or floods? If so, you should plan accordingly.

  • Determine well in advance which rooms in your house offer safe havens. These rooms should be interior rooms and clear of hazards such as windows, multiple breakable objects, flying debris, etc.
  • Choose easy-to-clean areas such as utility rooms, bathrooms, and basements as safe zones.
  • Access to a supply of fresh water is important. In areas that may lose electricity, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure that you have access to water during a power outage or other crises.
  • In the event of flooding, go to the highest location in your home, or a room that has access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter.

For more information, including specific emergency-prep needs for other animals such as birds, reptiles, rodents, and horses see the ASPCA’s Disaster Preparedness site, and the Ready.gov site. The READY Campaign, sponsored by FEMA, the American Red Cross, and the Humane Society, among other organizations, has a number of links and tools for Pet Preparedness in the event of an emergency, including resources on how to stay current on your local pet disaster plan, policies and procedures; examples of how to promote preparedness in your communities and engage other organizations in your efforts; as well as resources to educate the community about how to assemble a pet emergency supply kit and make a family emergency plan.

Congrats to earthbath Jetaway Sweepstakes winners!!

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

CONGRATULATIONS to our San Francisco JETAWAY sweepstakes winners: Sheila, Glenn, and Toby, who have won a trip to San Francisco, along with a professional photo shoot with San Francisco pet photographer Ann Hamilton, a year’s supply of earthbath, and MORE!!! Don’t forget to check out our tips on traveling with your dog before you Jetaway, and we’ll see you soon! :-)

They have won:

Sheila says: “We are so excited about the trip and the great products! We have never visited San Francisco and can’t wait!”

We are sure you’ll love San Francisco and we are looking forward to meeting you and your little sweetie, Toby! Can’t wait to see how the professional pictures turn out! He’s a photogenic little one, to be sure!