Archive for the ‘Shedding’ Category

Pet grooming: it’s not just a vanity thing

Monday, October 17th, 2011
dog grooming dog bath

A "spa day" for your dog is good for his health and yours!

ANOTHER trip to the salon – and how much for that wash, blow-dry, and style?  Sometimes it can feel like your dog gets more “spa” days than you do! But before you start to think the trips to the groomers are a frivolous extra that your dog could go without, think again. Brushing and shampooing your dogs isn’t just to beautify them (though of course that’s a major benefit) and decrease the offense to our human noses that can come with just a little too much “doggy” smell around the house. Nope, if your dog is looking a bit rough around the edges, chances are he’s feeling bad too.

That messy coat could be disguising hidden tangles and mats underneath, which, as they worsen, actually pull on the skin, stretching it into the mat and sometimes even causing sores and infections. Long-haired and double-coated dogs are particularly at-risk for painful and health-hazardous mats, as burrs, thorns, sharp grasses and even twigs can become lodged in their fur and burrow their way down closer to the skin.

Linebrushing is the key to successfully grooming a long-haired or double-coated dog. First, your dog should be settled comfortably lying down on the floor or on his grooming table. He should be used to being groomed, because this will take a bit of time – and if not, start slowly, use treats, and get him accustomed to laying still for longer and longer periods of time until you are done. Divide your dog into large sections (e.g., head, neck and chest, shoulders, each side, his rear end, his underbelly, and legs), and completely brush out each section before moving on. Within each section, using your brush, part the coat either horizontally across the dog or vertically down his spine. Use this part as the base for your linebrushing. As you brush, make sure you brush all the way to the skin and brush the hair up and away from the part. As you go, you can mist the coat with water or a conditioning spritz as you to help detangle and condition the coat.

The biggest problem professional groomers see is when dogs are brought in because their undercoats are so terribly matted yet their owners will be confused because they say they brush them daily. The reason for all of the mats is because they only get brushed on the surface, and never penetrate to the skin. Linebrushing solves this problem.

Double-coated breeds typically blow their coat twice a year, and if you have one of these dogs with a thick undercoat, chances are you’re going through a heavy shed period right now. It’s even more important to facilitate the coat-blowing process by constant brushing and grooming. Shampooing will loosen all of the dead hair, and being vigilant about daily brushing will ensure that mats are minimized, which can also inhibit the coat-blowing process.  For more specifics on managing coat-blowing, check out our blog post on shedding.

If you’re looking to save money on groomers’ fees, it’s not that hard to bathe your dog at home by yourself, provided you have all of your materials prepped and ready to go. Make sure to read our easy-to-follow 4-step DIY guide to dog bathing for more!

Know that every time you spend time with your dog brushing, bathing, or drying him off with a big hug, you’re not just making him look pretty: you’re doing good things for his health too, not to mention bonding with him!

Happy grooming!

Summer Coat Care for Dog Paddlers!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Remember back when you used to go swimming every day during summer… until your hair turned green from all the chlorine? And then you learned – always to rinse after swimming (good), wash (better), or pre-condition your hair before taking a dip (best).

Just because your dog may not be mortified by suddenly morphing locks of green, this doesn’t mean you can (or should) ignore summer swim coat care for him, just as you wouldn’t ignore proper summer hair care protection for yourself!

If your dog loves jumping in the lake, cavorting on the beach, or even diving into the pool, that summer splash factor can wreak havoc on your dog’s shiny coat and itch-free skin unless you take some simple grooming precautions.

For Pool Pooches:

Chlorine is notoriously drying – and dogs aren’t immune to its parching effects either. Dogs who join you in your backyard pool are likely to be more prone to itchy, dry skin and a dull, dry coat because the pool chemicals strip the skin and coat of their naturally protective oils. Remember, too, that a dog’s skin is more sensitive than human skin, with a pH that is nearly neutral (like pure water) – human skin pH is much more acidic, so we can tolerate the harsher acidity of chemicals (like chlorine) much better than our dogs.

Chlorine could even change the color of your dog’s coat: it could affect dark coats by dulling and even bleaching them out, and even turn those platinum blondes (hey golden retrievers, yellow labs, and snow white malteses – we’re talking to you!) green!

How to avoid these pool pitfalls? Just follow these three simple things:

1) Spray down your dog with a coat conditioner like any of our earthbath spritzes before he hits the pool. This conditioning spray will help create a barrier of protection for both his skin and coat from the drying effects of the chlorine.

2) After every swim, rinse him down thoroughly with pure, cool water. Rinse well longer than you think is necessary just so you ensure all pool chemicals and chlorine is completely gone. Towel dry, and then, if you have time (for an even better protective effect), follow with another spritz of earthbath conditioning spritz in your favorite scent! Comb through to get out any mats before they worsen, and to distribute the conditioning spray evenly.

3) Once a week, comb your dog out completely and bathe him thoroughly with any of earthbath’s gentle shampoos and follow with a conditioner. This will ensure any remaining chemical residue is completely washed out, and will also re-moisturize his coat.

Bow Wow, Beach Dog

Though saltwater and a day in the sun can create perfect “sun-kissed beach hair” for us girls, that same sun, salt, and sand can result in nothing but an itchy mess for your dog unless you prep with a few key items:

1) Prep with a moisturizing conditioner or conditioning spray to protect his skin and coat.

2) Before you leave your day at the beach, make sure to give your dog a thorough brushing to get all the sand and grit out of his coat. Brush against the direction of hair growth, and then with it. Then give him a thorough rinsing in those beach showers – rinse him down completely to get rid of any remaining sand and rinse all of the salt out.

3) If he’s still itching later, or perhaps feels a bit grimy or sticky… it’s time for an earthbath! earthbath oatmeal and aloe or tea tree and aloe shampoos are perfect for itchy dogs, as these natural healers will help to soothe itchy spots and areas of discomfort. Generally, if your dog is spending a lot of time with you outdoors and especially at the beach, lake, or pool, a bath once a week as a necessity to keep him clean and comfortable. Definitely make sure to condition, so you’re protecting his skin and coat every time you shampoo. A perfect spritz for hot, itchy dogs is SheaPet’s Herbal Hot Spot & Itch Relief Moisturizing Treatment with Shea Butter & Tea Tree Oil Spritz, a great leave-on herbal skin tonic and coat conditioner.

4) Keep in mind what hot sand does to tender paws! Apply a soothing shea butter balm like SheaPet Aloe and Treatment Balm which is great to heal cracked pads, sun-sore noses, and hot spots.

“Freshwater” Fidos

Unfortunately, freshwater streams, lakes, and rivers are not quite as pristine as you’d like to believe.  Which doesn’t matter to your dog – who (we know from experience) would relish any opportunity to roll in a mud puddle – or to you, if you’re one of the majority of us who live near a body of water that is not an ocean.  Lakes, rivers, and streams are a blast to play in, but many of them contain fairly high levels of algae, sludge, pollutants, bugs, and even leeches!

This means – any dip in the lake should be followed by a full-fledged earthbath afterwards. Take care to observe all of the usual steps you’d take prior to bathing your dog – comb him out thoroughly to remove any mats or tangles, wet him down thoroughly, and scrub him to the skin with a gentle but effective shampoo. Remoisturize with conditioner.

If you’re hitting the pool, lake, or ocean frequently, it’s more important than ever to be using products that won’t strip away the natural oils of the coat and skin – which could do even more damage than not bathing your dog at all. That’s why, if you’re armed with earthbath, you can bathe as often as you like, and never have to worry about irritations!  The only thing you have to concern yourself with, is which of our 11 delicious fragrance options to use… this time!

And with that, the sun’s shining so… we’re off to the beach!

 

Shiny coats = happy, healthy dogs

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

Hair matters. Remember that old shampoo commercial: “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful?” as the model swung her luscious, full, shiny mane of hair in slow motion towards the camera? It was pretty darn effective: sales of that brand of shampoo soared, and the tagline is still memorable today, at least 15 years later.

Even as styles and even ideal weights and body sizes have varied throughout cultures and different eras, shiny, full, bouncy hair has always been desirable, and a sign of youth, health, and attractiveness.

The dog with a pretty, shiny coat and the sparkly eyes will always be adopted first, over the dog with a scruffy, patchy coat with bald spots and dull eyes.

…Oh, did you think I was talking about women?

Well, maybe I was initially. But just as in humans, in dogs, how supple, smooth, and shiny the skin and hair (or fur) appears is an externally visible reflection of overall health.

If your dog has a dull, dry coat, this is an external indication of poor nutritional health. A good diet is essential to good coat health, but just as in humans, a good skin and haircare (or coat care) routine is necessary to supplement a good diet.

Key (food) ingredients to good hair and coat health (take notes, not just for your canine friend, but for yourself too!) are:

  • Linoleic acid: This is an Omega-6 fatty acid that supports the proper functioning of the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without the proper production of skin oils, over time, the coat will look dry and lusterless. In addition, linoleic acid helps to prevent water loss from the skin.
  • Omega-3 fatty acids (notably, EPA and DHA): These are considered to be the foundation of healthy skin, and are also recommended to support organ function such as heart and kidney function and joint health. EPA and DHA are the Omega-3 fatty acids that work at the cellular level to help the immune system react optimally when it faces challenges.
  • Vitamins A, C, and E; and Zinc: These vitamins and the mineral Zinc help to neutralize free radicals that can harm cells.
  • B vitamins (including biotin): B’s are critical to proper cellular functioning, including skin and hair health.
  • Choline and Inositol: These substances help to maintain the integrity of skin cells.

Of course, ideal hair/coat-care consists of a two-pronged strategy – from the inside-out (what you eat shows up in your glowing skin and shiny, lush hair/fur), and also, from the outside-in. Your hair (and coat-care) products really do matter. That’s why we’ve spent so much time crafting the best quality shampoo and conditioning products possible. Here are some key things to look for in your pet shampoo and coat care products:

Because dog’s skin and coat is so sensitive, it’s crucial that you never use harsh cleansers - soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue behind.

  • The cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, soap-free, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.
  • Use a pH-balanced cleanser. Dogs’ skin pH is almost neutral, meaning that the pH balanced shampoos for HUMANS will be much more acidic and as a result, highly irritating to their much more sensitive skin.
  • Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners are key to replacing the nourishing oils that can be washed away, and skin-soothing ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal promote healing of skin irritations and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin.

 

What makes a quality dog shampoo?

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011

We are passionate about animals: especially the dogs, cats, and horses who share our lives, our homes, and our beds (well, hopefully your horses aren’t sharing your bed!). Because our pets are family members too, we feel that they deserve nothing but the best. This is why we do what we do: simply, to create the best, most animal- and eco-friendly grooming formulas for our pets. (Not to mention, for you too: we won’t tell anyone if you steal your dog’s Mango Tango – and you probably will, once you get a whiff of the delicious fragrance!)

Over the years, we’ve gotten a lot of questions about what exactly makes earthbath a top-quality shampoo and what differentiates earthbath from the other brands on the market. When we started, we were asking these questions too, because we wanted to ensure we created the best product possible.

A high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner must always have a few vitally important components:

1) A pH value that is especially formulated for a dog’s delicate skin (between 6.5 to 7.5), since a dog’s skin pH is more neutral than a human’s. The pH of dog’s skin is about 7.5 where a human’s skin is about 5.5, on the standard pH scale from 0 to 14. The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. A pH of 7 is neutral (pure water has a pH of 7.0). A pH less than 7 is acidic, where each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, pH 4 is ten times more acidic than pH 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than pH 6. The same holds true for pH values above 7, each of which is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value.

A dog’s skin is very close to a neutral pH, and significantly more alkaline than human skin, so the kind of shampoo you use on your dog should be much more neutral in pH than the typical pH value of shampoo formulated for human hair (“pH balanced” shampoos for humans are around 4.5-5.5, making them much more acidic, and ultimately very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin). Over time, acidic shampoos also strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Never use human shampoo on your dog… even though it’s okay to use your dog’s shampoo (as long as it’s earthbath :-) ) on your hair – the alkalinic nature of earthbath shampoo will not hurt your hair, and in fact, is milder than the mildest baby shampoo! All of earthbath shampoos are formulated with a pH as close to 7.0 as possible.

2) Mild cleansing ingredients; ideally soap-free. Soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue. All earthbath products are soap-free; the cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.

3) Easy to rinse out so nothing is left behind on the fur or skin. earthbath worked with veterinarians & groomers to develop ultra-mild shampoos that wash out super easily, with ingredients that are 100% natural, non-toxic, paraben-free, phthalate-free, animal-byproduct-free, and phosphate-free. Even if a tiny bit is left behind, there is nothing harmful in earthbath products to irritate your dog’s skin or fur, and you don’t need to worry about upset tummies following any licking or grooming! Since there is nothing artificial or harmful (to either plants or animals) in our products you never have to worry about the effect giving your dog a bath has on the environment either!

4)  Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners to help the skin and coat maintain their healthy feel and shine. earthbath products contain all-natural ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal, both recommended by veterinarians to effectively combat skin irritation, promote healing, and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin. Almost all of our shampoos contain aloe vera for extra moisturizing, including our bestselling Clear Advantages, and our Hypo-Allergenic, just for those extra-sensitive or allergic dogs. Though all of earthbath shampoos are effective and mild, if you have a dog plagued by the itchies, you’ll definitely want to check out our Oatmeal and Aloe shampoo.

People-Tested & Pet Approved!

Really…

We aren’t kidding when we say “People-Tested!”  Our CEO Paul personally tests every product on himself, and many people write to tell us how their whole family uses earthbath Puppy (“we LOVE the cherry scent!”)/Mango Tango (“it smells better than any other shampoo I’ve ever bought!”)/Green Tea Leaf (“hands down, my favorite!”)/or one of our other twelve shampoos! Try one today and tell us which one you love most!

A DIY How-To Guide on Doggy Bathtime

Monday, March 28th, 2011

A dog groomer may just be your (and your clean bathroom’s) best friend, but if you’re more inclined to suds-up yourself, either to save money, to bond with your dog, or because entrusting your furbaby to a stranger simply seems to be more stress than you (or he) can bear, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible! Personally, we’ve never been to a professional groomer, and our two 50 pound dogs would be horrified at the very thought!  They have learned to deal with the at-home bathtub experience, low-tech as it may be!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!