Archive for the ‘Shedding’ Category

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A DIY How-To Guide on Doggy Bathtime

Monday, March 28th, 2011

A dog groomer may just be your (and your clean bathroom’s) best friend, but if you’re more inclined to suds-up yourself, either to save money, to bond with your dog, or because entrusting your furbaby to a stranger simply seems to be more stress than you (or he) can bear, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible! Personally, we’ve never been to a professional groomer, and our two 50 pound dogs would be horrified at the very thought!  They have learned to deal with the at-home bathtub experience, low-tech as it may be!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!

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Posted in Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Fun Stuff, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

Shedding Woes, Part 2: Tips on Managing Blowing Coats

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011

Last week we explained the finer points of shedding, and more specifically, the huge annual or bi-annual event termed “blowing coat” experienced by double-coated dog breeds. Whether or not you have a dog that blows out his undercoat this spring, if you have a dog, you have dog hair issues. So, to make your life a little less hairy, the following tips will help you keep the flying fur under control (and your vacuum cleaners in good working order).

Simply: Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.

To expand upon this, read on:

1) Consistent grooming. The dog hair is going to fall out one way or another, and for a few reasons, it is best to remove it yourself by brushing.  The more hair YOU remove, the less you will see tufting and wafting by, all over your house. During shedding season, it’s best if you can brush your dog once a day, at least. For those dogs that blow out their coat, you could probably spend all day brushing, amidst a continual fur explosion!

Pet hair can also clog air vents and heating ducts, causing a great deal of respiratory ailments and allergies, so make sure you get your air ducts cleaned annually if you have dogs and/or cats. Better yet, invest in a good quality air purifier for at least your bedroom, and have your air ducts and dryer vents checked and cleaned in direct proportion to the number of animals and the volume of fur that you have.

2) Brushing, Brushing, and more… Brushing: To avoid or at least reduce the build up of dog hair in your house, air vents, and in your furniture and rugs, it’s best to brush out your dog outside. Brush a couple of times a day, or as often as you can, with a few different kinds of brushes. The best kind of brush to use for a double-coated dog shedding his undercoat is a double-row undercoat rake with rotating teeth. This will penetrate through the thick coat, removing only the loose undercoat fur, leaving the exterior guard hairs untouched and intact. Many people also love the FURminator, basically, another form of an undercoat tool that is designed to grab and remove the loose undercoat without cutting the coat.

Brushing out your dog’s coat, contrary to many people’s belief, is not a matter of vanity. It is important for your dog’s health as well as for your own health and housekeeping that you keep the fur under control! Though nature intends for this coat to be shed, if it’s not helped along by brushing, the dead hair can easily get matted and caught in the rest of the coat, which can attract fleas, mites, and ticks, as well as being a cause of skin irritation and pain on its own.

3) Bathe your dog! For a step-by-step guide on how to bathe your dog, see our post on this topic! Many double-coated dog owners bathe more frequently than usual during coat-blowing season, since bathing helps to speed the shedding process by loosening the undercoat that hasn’t shed out yet, so it’s even more essential that you use a soap-free, non-irritating, additive and paraben-free shampoo (you’ll be safe with any of earthbath’s “flavors”) if you’re washing often. One of our Facebook fans, who is also a professional dog groomer and an earthbath-exclusive user gave us her secret regimen for managing excessive shedding: “First, de-shed in the tub with a slicker, then a single rake, double rake and finally a comb while the shampoo is on. Rinse, then put in conditioner, massage in, and use a high velocity blower right near the skin to loosen up any other hair that is ready to go,comb again and rinse. I use the High Velocity and stand dryer to dry. This prevents all the hair and dander flying all over the place and getting into the lungs. It is also always better for the coat and less damaging to brush it out when wet, rather than brushing dry hair.” Great tip!

4) Condition and loosen mats with coat-conditioner or conditioning spritz: We love earthbath’s creme rinse and conditioner and our Puppy spritz in cherry-scent! After you moisturize any tangles or mats, use a mat-breaker which is specially designed “comb-like” tool with blades that easily cuts through the mats evenly and painlessly (if you use it correctly), so chunks of fur are not left missing, and your dog remains comfortable and pain-free.

5) Give an Omega-3 fish oil supplement daily or add a tablespoon of olive oil to your dog’s dinner. Omega-3 fatty acids are essential for a healthy coat and skin, not to mention, really great for joint health, so Omega-3s are wonderful, multi-functional supplements to add! Some people claim that Omega-3 fatty acids even reduce shedding because it helps keep the fur healthy. Just make sure you get the most natural form of Omega-3, with DHA. My dog eats Omega-3 capsules like a treat (I don’t know how!) but if yours does not, I would advise going the olive oil route, or inserting the pill in a pill pocket or piece of cheese!

This isn’t snow… it’s the fur a Siberian husky shed while he blew coat! It may be nice to know that all of this fur could actually be used, rather than thrown out. How? You can donate it to be used to clean up oil spills. After the Gulf Oil Spill, we found out that an organization called Matter of Trust collects donated hair and fur to create “booms” and large mats which are used to soak up the oil from oil spills (many of which we never even hear about, including motor oil runoff in our waterways).  Hair and fur are actually among the most effective materials that soak up oil.

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Posted in Breeds, Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Natural Remedies, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | 1 Comment »

Shedding woes, part 1: What does “blowing coat” mean?

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

In this two-part series over the next two weeks, we describe the seasonal insanity that is “blowing coat” and then, detail the best way to manage this massive shedding!

Some dog owners may never come across this dreaded two-word phrase (Looking at you, you single-coated breed owners, you!), but those of us who have the pleasure of sharing our lives (and homes) with the furrier Arctic breeds, made all the fluffier by a warm, dense undercoat,also have the distinct DISPLEASURE of finding great tumbleweeds of fur blowing through our homes once, twice, or even three times a year, depending on the climate, the type of dog, gender, whether or not the dog is “intact,” and how much time s/he spends outside.

In fact, for all the frustration (and extra vacuuming) it can cause, it is completely natural for dogs to “blow coat” once or twice annually, changing their winter coat to a lighter one for summer, as the seasons change. All dogs shed (we humans “shed” hair too – around 100 per day!).  In fact, shedding old, dead hair allows the new coat to grow in. It is actually a bit of a myth that some breeds don’t shed: while all dogs shed, the amount of shedding actually varies greatly from breed to breed. The downside to those breeds that shed little to no hair (for example: terriers, maltese, shih tzus, poodles, bichon frises, and water dogs) is that they usually need to be professionally groomed (or clipped) often, otherwise their fur is highly prone to matting.

The benefit, therefore, of a dog that blows out their coat or sheds consistently year round, is that these breeds typically don’t need much, if any, professional coat-cutting, since nature pretty much takes care of that for you! Even though the term “fur” and “hair” are often used interchangeably to describe a dog’s coat, in general, a double coat (made up of a soft, insulating undercoat underneath a coarser topcoat made up of guard hairs, the longer outer coat hairs), like that of a Siberian Husky, Shiba, Chow Chow, or Samoyed, is correctly referred to as a FUR coat, while a single coat (lacking an undercoat), like that of a shih tzu or a terrier, is actually a HAIR coat.

Evolutionarily, those breeds that originated from the harsh Northern climates needed a dense undercoat to protect and warm them through the frigid winter months, and would shed this undercoat as the need for it waned with the increasing daylight hours of spring and summer months. In today’s world of mostly climate-controlled, pampered and indoor companion animals, the environmental effects of changing seasons and day lengths on fur coats are minimized.  Double-coated dogs that enjoy the outdoors, and as a result, spend most of their time outside, will usually have two distinct seasons of shedding that respond to the changing season from winter to spring and fall to winter. Indoor dogs tend to shed at a fairly consistent and continuous rate, unless other factors trigger a more pronounced shed.

Other things that influence hair growth and shedding include genetics, nutrition, age, sex, health status, season, and the normal hormonal fluctuations of an “intact” dog. I was having a conversation with a dog breeder the other day and she mentioned offhandedly, “oh, yes, I can always tell if a dog is spayed or neutered from the coat. You’ll never see a more beautiful coat than on a fixed dog.” I thought that was an interesting comment, which, in part, prompted my research for this article! And in fact, hormonal levels definitely impact the condition and quantity/type of coat. Spayed and castrated dogs usually have denser undercoats, which gives that fluffy, “cottony” appearance. I am still waiting, however, to see whether or not my two chows (one male, one female, both “fixed”) will in fact, “blow coat” as spring progresses, more than the relatively massive amount of hair that comes out in the nightly brushing session. Maybe they’re in the process already; it’s my first “season” with them, so I have no comparison point. That said, my male chow is shedding more voluminously and much more noticeably from his undercoat than his sister; who basically feels like touching the fluffiest cloud of cotton candy you can imagine.

Read on to Part 2, where we cover (in detail) the best way to manage blowing coats.

As a quick preview, we’ll give you a hint:

Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.

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Posted in Breeds, Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Natural Remedies, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

Love your pet but sick of sneezing? Shed those allergies!

Tuesday, February 1st, 2011

If you have pets but are also plowing through a jumbo multi-pack of Kleenex on a daily basis, you’re not alone. Over ten million Americans (many of whom are also pet owners) suffer from pet allergies. This means that there are a lot of people out there sneezing, itching, breaking out in hives,  and coughing every time they go near a dog or cat.  Though many conventional doctors will say: if you know you are allergic to _x_ (whether it be cats, dogs, peanuts, pollen, or feathers), then avoid __x__! For many allergic animal lovers, this form of “treatment” is out of the question. As one of these people myself, who has been horribly allergic to cats my whole life, but then adopted one lovable furball, and then another (for good measure), I paid as much attention to my doctor’s suggestion to “get rid of the allergen-producing stimulus [AKA: my cats]” as I would have if she would have said to give up my own children.

So, what did I do? Research. And then I took action. And I’m happy to say that I’ve lived over 10 years, nearly allergy-free, with my two cats, and have subsequently acquired two very furry, fluffy, dander-producing dogs within the last year.

I’m happy to share the fruits of my research labors and the steps I took to help my allergies with you, in the hopes that I may help prevent an unnecessary pet surrender to an animal shelter following the discovery that someone in the family is “allergic” to him.

The first thing to arm yourself with is knowledge. Most people think that pet allergies are caused by animal hair, thinking that the shorter haired dogs or cats may be better choices for those prone to allergies, but this is not actually the case (and the cause of many animal surrenders, following an ill- or non-informed adoption).  Pet allergies are actually the result of an inappropriate immune response to molecules that are secreted by oil glands, found in the saliva, and shed with dander (dead skin cells). Cat allergies are particularly intense because cats have a certain protein (known as Fel-D-1) in their saliva, which is the substance that most people who are allergic to pets react to.  The cat hair is a carrier for the dander and saliva (since cats clean themselves frequently by licking) because this particular allergen in cat saliva dries on the fur and then becomes airborne, ready to irritate nasal passages and your eyes!

Now what to do about preventing those allergens from getting to you…

1) HEPA Filters! Though somewhat pricey at first, these HEPA filter products in air purifiers and vacuums absolutely work. Vacuums with HEPA filters trap up to 99.9% of allergy-causing dander and dust mites. But remember to clean the filters and replace regularly! Other kinds of vacuums simply suck up the debris, and then spew it all out the back, in finer particles. Take a look at what happens the next time you vacuum with a non-HEPA vacuum, seriously. It’s gross.

2) Keep your bedroom pet-free. Ok, this one is hard, and I admit to ruling with this “no cats in the bed” iron fist for the first year I had my first cat, but then succumbed. When the second one came along, there was nowhere else to put her in my two-room apartment during the sensitive and slow “introduction period” between the two cats: They both needed their own space, after all! Once our second cat was “raised” from kittenhood in the bedroom, she never left. And of course, the other cat couldn’t then be excluded… how fair would that be?!

So if you can’t (or don’t want to) totally ban your pets from your bed, at least see #1 and buy an air purifier for your bedroom, and change the filter regularly. You can also encase your mattress and pillows in protective covers designed to prevent dust mites, dander, and other allergens from penetrating these porous materials. Ensure you wash your bedding at least once a week in hot water (or your washer’s “sanitize” setting, if you have a fancy new washing machine) to kill dust mites and eliminate allergens. Even if you don’t think that you have a dust mite allergy, they, or more specifically, their waste droppings (I know, TMI, but some necessary “I”!) are the cause of many problems including sinus infections, watery eyes and noses, rashes, eczema, and other respiratory ailments. Dust mites live off of dead skin cells (i.e. dander) shed from humans and pets, and they make their homes in mattresses, couches, and other cushy, warm places like pillows and carpets.  Because a typical used mattress may have up to ten million dust mites living in it, and a pillow that is only two years old can be composed of up to ten percent dust mite feces and carcasses (ewwwww!!), it’s also a good idea to get new bedding and pillows frequently.

3) Bathe your pets regularly and use wipes daily between baths! Grooming your dog or cat frequently, including brushing, using waterless grooming foams, and earthbath wipes washes off the dander on its fur. Bathing your pet also has another benefit: the primary reason for vet visits is due to skin problems from environmental allergies, which can be helped and even prevented by frequent baths with a mild, non-soap based cleanser, like the formulations found in the entire line of earthbath’s shampoos! We know that cats, in particular, don’t love bathtime, so here is where our wipes especially come in handy! They usually don’t mind a wipe-down, and generally, love to be brushed, both of which significantly reduce allergy-causing dander. Best, though, if someone with lesser or no allergies does the brushing.

4) Clean your house! Perhaps this one is a bit obvious, but dander, dust, and dust mites that are allowed to gather on furniture, in cracks and crevices, around the knick knacks and books are all going to contribute to the generally poor and allergy-producing condition of your interior environment. And no matter how much you vacuum, carpets are the worst at trapping large amounts of allergens, so to the degree you can replace the majority of your floor surfaces with mop-able hardwood floors, tiles, or even linoleum, the better off you’ll be. Other cleaning tips include

  • Vacuum carpets and furniture on a daily basis.
  • Vacuum curtains on a regular basis.
  • Dust with a microfiber cloth that picks up the dust and doesn’t just move it around.
  • Wipe down all surfaces on a weekly basis.

Long ago, my doctor actually told me to vacuum daily and mop as often as I could (daily if possible), and to be sure to mop the walls. Vacuum and mop DAILY? Mop the WALLS?! My solution: I hired a cleaning person. Works for me, and my four animals!  No more allergies and a side benefit – my house is spotless!

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Posted in Canine Health, Cats, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Living Green, Natural Remedies, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

How often should I bathe my dog?

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Recently, we got this great question posted on our Facebook wall by a great pet store named Dolittles in Charleston, SC: We suggested dogs be bathed not more than every 2-3 weeks to reduce the potential of their bodies overproducing natural oils (a sometimes smelly proposition). A fan then posted a comment asking: “but doesn’t clean hair grow faster and stronger?” We hope there is a happy medium, and thought… our friends at earthbath might offer their opinion on this subject.

The simple answer, is, “it depends.” Sorry, it’s not so simple! Glibness aside, what we mean by this is: how often you bathe your dog depends on many individual factors such as what breed of dog you have, any specific skin sensitivities and allergies, coat type, your lifestyle and the climate you live in (humid & hot, hot & dry, windy & cold), what season it is, your dog’s activity level (which may vary based on climate, season, breed, and your lifestyle…), and of course, the kind of shampoo you use! You can be confident in bathing your dog much more frequently if you know the shampoo is chock full of nothing but the most gentle and pure ingredients, containing nothing that will irritate your dog’s skin.

Generally speaking, you will know that your active dog is in dire need of a bath when he is covered in mud from rolling around the yard, matted with muck from the other slobbery dogs at the dog park, or after summer adventures spent playing in a barn, romping through the fields, and/or swimming in a algae-covered lake. That said, if your dog is so active that he cavorts like this every day, you should probably give him a full bath every week to ten days, and in the interim, compromise with other in-between cleansing options like quick and easy wipes (which are gentle enough to use multiple times a day after every outing, especially on paws, and icky areas like goo-encrusted eyes and waxy ears) waterless foams (just rub on and towel off) and the all-important spritz to keep doggy smells at bay. Of course, earthbath makes it uber-easy for despairing owners of dirty dogs, with many different bath and cleansing options, all designed to work together to keep to keep both muck-loving dogs and human family members happy!

In contrast, a lap dog who would never deign to get her princess paws dirty, let alone roll around in the mud, needs a bath much less frequently, and could probably get by on a good brushing, some earthbath wipes and the occasional waterless foam bath.

Again, depending on where you live, how you live, how much time you have, or money, if you turn over grooming duties to someone else, and grooming needs your dog’s coat requires you could get away with bathing your dog every couple of months, or may need to undertake some combination of grooming (even if it’s just a swipe with an earthbath wipe and a brushing) each day.

Here are some more specific guidelines on answering this recurrent question…

1. What Kind of Coat Does Your Dog Wear?

  • Double or undercoat dogs (i.e. Siberian Huskies, Pekingese, Chow Chows), should have a bath once every 2 to 6 weeks (depending on activity level and how dirty they get); though they should be brushed weekly, at least, to prevent mats and “hot spots” (areas of moisture trapped in their undercoat) which can become quite painful and infected.
  • Silky long coat (ie. Shih Tzus, Yorkies, Lhasa Apsos), should bathe once every 3 to 6 weeks, but lavish brushing love on these divas daily!
  • Non-shedding curly coat (ie. Poodles), bathe ‘em once every 6 to 8 weeks
  • Smooth, short coat (ie. Chihuahua, Boston Terrier), bathe no more than once every couple of months or only when the dog is noticeably dirty: These dogs have more sensitive skin, due to their short coats. Frequent baths will wash away the protective waterproofing oils produced by the skin.
  • Wiry/Coarse coat (ie. Schnauzers and most terriers), bathe once every 4 to 6 weeks, though these breeds can often develop dry skin and skin sensitivities.

Of course, and we can’t stress this enough, the best way to keep your dog’s coat shiny and healthy, with no skin irritations including itchies, hot spots, and dandruff, is to feed them a very high quality grain-free diet high in natural proteins, and bathe with pure, gentle soap-free, pH balanced earthbath products, where we live (and bathe) by the motto: “People-Tested & Pet Approved.”

If you’re bathing frequently, consider what you’re bathing with. If you’re using a cheap sulfate-laden shampoo, rife with harsh and unnatural ingredients including phthalates, parabens (oil based), and artificial colors and fragrances, you’ll end up with more problems than a dirty dog, and will end up spending more money to treat the ensuing problems than you would have at the outset on a better quality shampoo.

2. It’s A Dog’s Life…

Mud-Lovers: If your dog is never as happy as when he’s just jumped head first into a mud-puddle (like this one), and loves to roll around in the mud every chance he gets, you may have to bathe him every time he does (unless you enjoy mud-adorned furniture and floors). Assuming he’s not getting daily mud baths, you can just brush out small amounts of dry dirt in his fur. In between full baths, our grooming foams are great for removing excess oil and grime in the coat but if you’re dog is pretty filthy, into the tub he should go! If your dog lives in a perpetually wet environment (like, say, the great but soggy Pacific Northwest in winter), and as a result, gets muddy almost every time he goes out, the best shampoo is one that is completely hypoallergenic and ultra-mild, such as earthbath’s Hypo-Allergenic Shampoo or earthbath Clear Advantages. Any old shampoo (including most human shampoos) will completely strip away his natural oils in no time. All of earthbath shampoos are soap-free, hypo-allergenic, and pH-balanced to clean gently, thoroughly, and safely. Even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because earthbath uses only mild, safe, non-irritants.

Swimmers: If your dog is a water-loving breed like a Newfoundland, Lab, or Water Retriever, you’ll have to give him a bath after almost every swim to wash out the chlorine (from the pool) or the salt water (from the ocean), though you could probably get away with some rinse-only cycles in between full baths.  Most important for these dogs is a good conditioner like our All-Natural Crème Rinse & Conditioner to retain the natural oils in his lustrous coat since all of that water play is robbing his skin of protective oils, in addition to the frequent baths.

Daily Walkers: For “normal” dogs that just go outside to relieve themselves and exercise on a brief daily walk, keep the box of earthbath wipes by the door, (and in the car while we’re at it) in whatever “flavor” is your fave, to make sure he doesn’t track the street (or the neighbor’s dog’s poo) all over your brand new Oriental rug.

3. Climate: One Hot Dog Please! (Hold the mustard)

All dogs require more baths during the summer: after all, it’s the season of tick and flea infestation (wonderful), not to mention increased oil production and generally more time spent outdoors playing.  Bathe weekly or every two weeks, depending on your (and your dog’s) preference, keeping those other water-free alternatives nearby.

4. Skin Allergies and Disorders

Some of our beloved furry friends have skin allergies and sensitivities that can make it difficult to get clean and remain simultaneously happy. (Puppies & kittens often fall into this category.) earthbath solved this dilemma by blending the finest natural ingredients into our mild, hypo-allergenic, tearless shampoo. It cleanses thoroughly and safely, and even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because we used only mild, safe, non-irritants. To be perfectly honest, we’ve heard from many people with problems that they see much better results with our shampoo than those (high priced, stinky) medicated dog shampoos sold at the vet’s office, but of course, we must stress the importance of consulting with your vet on any suspected health problem, including skin issues, and following your vet’s advice!

After all, maybe your dog is onto something…

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Posted in Breeds, Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Fleas and Ticks, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Natural Remedies, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | 1 Comment »

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