Posts Tagged ‘bath’

The importance of winter grooming: follow our four tips!

Friday, January 6th, 2012
a happy winter dog is a healthy groomed winter dog

Raindrops on roses and snowflakes on noses... keep your dog happily groomed this winter!

There’s a common misconception that dogs don’t need to be groomed, or only groomed minimally, over the winter months. The (erroneous) belief is that a dog’s winter coat comes in and should be allowed to grow long to protect and warm the dog. In addition, because dogs, like humans, often follow a more sedentary and inside routine in the winter, many people feel that their dogs aren’t getting dirty enough to warrant bathing. But this is simply not true. In fact, in many ways, grooming over the winter months becomes even more important to the health of your dog than at any other time of the year. Long, wet, matted hair easily makes a cold, wet, and infection-susceptible dog.

While it’s true that double-coated breeds and others with thick, long fur are more winter-ready than short-haired dogs, the “blessing” of these thick coats in winter can turn quickly into a curse if the fur isn’t maintained in a healthy condition. Fur that’s matted doesn’t insulate or provide warmth; instead, it provides discomfort, pain, and hot spots. Matting can even lead to infections below the skin, so when considering the effects of letting the grooming go, consider how your dog’s health may in fact suffer as a result. Grooming isn’t just for a beautiful dog (though this is obviously one noticeable effect), it’s also crucial for your dog’s good health.

Winter pitfalls to your dog’s coat and skin include:

  • Dry forced-air heat
  • Bitter, cold temperatures
  • Wind
  • Snow and ice
  • Dampness
  • Salt and sand used on streets and sidewalks

Simply follow these four grooming rituals through the winter to combat these winter blahs, and ensure that your dog stays comfortable, dry, and healthy!

  • Regular rub-downs: Any time your dog is wet, whether it’s from playing in the snow, running in the rain, or just following a bath, make sure to dry him thoroughly. In the winter this becomes especially important because your dog is just as susceptible to chills as you are. Think about being outside in freezing temperatures with a head full of wet hair: then consider that your dog doesn’t have the benefit of indoor plumbing and don’t subject him to this discomfort! In addition, your dog’s skin can become very dry and itchy when its fur isn’t dried fully combined with the excessively dry air created from indoor electric heaters.
  • Getting 100 strokes in: The most important grooming procedure at any time of year is to brush your dog’s coat regularly. Brushing helps to keep away mats and tangles, which only get worse the longer they’re allowed to stick around.  Mats and tangles prevent the distribution of the oils that naturally occur in the skin that help to condition and stimulate the skin and coat. This means an increase in dry skin, dull coat, and worse: infected hot spots. During the winter months, mats are the worst enemy to a properly maintained coat’s natural insulating qualities. A beautiful, mat-free coat helps to insulate body heat and radiates this heat back into the body, keeping a protective barrier between the dog and external cold air. Mats have a tendency to hold moisture against the skin, attracting more snow and debris, creating a perfect breeding ground for bacterial growth and infection.  As you can imagine, with the increase in damp, wet conditions in winter, it becomes even more important to police mats and eradicate them at the first opportunity. Brushing your dogs daily, even for just a few minutes, is critical in the winter.  If mats get out of control, it becomes too painful for the dog and too time-consuming for you to attempt to brush them all out, in which case, the easiest thing is to cut the entire coat short before skin and health problems develop.
  • Pooch pedicures:   Keeping your dogs’ feet in tip-top shape is very important in the winter. Throughout the year your dog’s nails naturally wear down from regular walks outside on concrete and asphalt, but in winter, most humans and dogs reduce their outdoor activities. And even if you’re still diligent about taking your dog for walks in the winter, they are probably shorter in duration, and over more snow- and ice-covered areas, so the nails will not wear down as much as they normally would. It’s very important to keep the nails trim, because if the nails grow long such that you hear “click click click” on the floor when they walk across it, this makes it difficult for them to keep their balance on ice and snow. Dogs can fall on the ice too, and we wouldn’t want that!
    It’s also important to trim your dog’s fur around their paw-pads as excess fur attracts snow and iceballs to form, creating severe discomfort and pain to your dog. Hair that accumulates in the pads can become matted, and hold moisture from rain and snow, and even pick up rock salt and ice. Which is sort of like waking around with rocks in wet shoes? Sounds awful, doesn’t it? If your dog tolerates it, dog-sized boots are a great option to keep out the snow, ice, salt, and sand: all harsh enemies of little puppy paws. But if your dog refuses to wear booties, the next best thing is to keep a bowl of warm water by the door and give each paw a little soak and dry after returning from any outdoor activities: the warm water easily melts away the ice and snow and any loose dirt and debris is shaken loose before it can burrow deeper.
  • Moisturizing earthbaths!: Bathing your dog regularly is one of the most important things you can do for your dog in the winter, as a clean dog is a happy, healthy dog. During the cold winter months, many of us suffer with dry, chafed, and scaly skin due to the combination of cold air, wind, and interior dry air from our forced-air heaters. Even though they’re covered with a layer of fur, our dogs also feel the drying effects of winter, so it’s even more important to use a non-drying, highly moisturizing, gentle shampoo and conditioner. The dry heat found in many homes throughout the winter season can be tough on our skin and hair, so we apply lotions and conditioners to ease the scratchiness and irritation. Your dog doesn’t need lotion, but if his little pads and nose seem irritated or cracked, SheaPet Shea Butter and Aloe Treatment Balm stops itching and soothes dry, irritated skin fast.

 

Why is my dog itching? — Identifying and Preventing Pet Allergies

Monday, August 8th, 2011

Your dog is scratching constantly, rolling around in the dirt more than usual, licking its paws, and biting himself like he’s his own vicious enemy.

It’s clear he’s uncomfortable and itchy, but why? It’s probably dog allergies. But is it due to pollen, food, dust mites … or your other pets? There are nearly endless possibilities.

We help you narrow it down to the likeliest ones. Once you know what’s causing your dog to itch, you can take action to provide your dog with some much-needed relief.

First, does your dog itch all year-round, or just in certain seasons?

Seasonal dog allergies. Seasonal environmental triggers are the most common cause of dog itching and scratching. Allergies usually develop after a couple of years of exposure, if they’re going to develop at all. It’s still unknown as to why one individual will develop allergies, while the next one won’t.  Just like in humans, genetics are thought to play a part, since allergies often run in families. Repeated exposure is important, too.

If you’re desperate to pinpoint the specific cause of seasonal allergies in your dog, your vet can do a “scratch test” (again, similar to the kind of test you’d take yourself to find out what you’re allergic to). Extracts of different pollens and allergens are injected just under a shaved area of skin, and reactions are noted a few minutes later.

Treatments:

You should consult your vet to determine the exact reason your dog may be itching, and for specific prescribed treatment of any identified allergies or problems like hot spots. However, using earthbath wipes frequently: after every outside excursion, before you notice your dog starting to try to clean himself, and before bed each night, can really reduce the pollen that clings to your dog’s fur, reducing the likelihood that allergies will develop.

Frequent baths are important, especially in the summer, when everyone is outside playing more. If you’ve never bathed your dog yourself, check our DIY how-to guide in which we take you through it, step-by-step! Using earthbath shampoos with itch-soothing ingredients like Oatmeal and Aloe, Tea Tree and Aloe, or Eucalyptus and Peppermint (great for soothing bug bites and general dermatitis) can really help calm the itchies.

Chances are, the itchies will disappear as fast as the summer sun does, but if not, note that there are only a few causes of year-round canine allergies:

Food: This is the first thing many people think of as causing canine allergies, but it’s actually one of the least likely. True food allergies are uncommon in dogs, with only about 15% of allergic dogs being allergic to certain ingredients. That said, there are some ingredients that some dogs are more sensitive to than others: like humans who are sensitive or downright intolerant of wheat, many dogs are allergic to wheat gluten. Sensitivity to corn and soy can also crop up fairly frequently:  If you have an itchy dog, start eliminating foods containing soy, corn, and wheat.

Try switching to a food with a different protein source or with a different grain content. Test this food for 6 weeks and see if there’s any difference in your dog’s itchiness.

Also, to prevent food allergies, one of the best things you can do is give your dog some variety in his diet. The more exposure to an ingredient, the more likely an allergy will develop — so change it up — not only will his tastebuds thank you (wouldn’t you get bored of eating the same thing day after day? Thought so. So does your dog.), but so will his state of health.

Mold. If you live somewhere humid, or if your kitchen and bathroom are unventilated, mold spores may be causing dog allergies (if they aren’t already causing allergies in you!)  Mold grows wherever and whenever there is moisture. Depending on where you live and what your drainage conditions are like, this can be seasonal or year-round.

What to do? If you live in a humid environment, or if summers get rather damp around your neck of the woods, keep the humidity low in your house by using a dehumidifier and/or air conditioner. Fix leaks when you notice them Use the exhaust fan in the bathroom after showering, and, when cooking, use your stove air vent.

Other animals. You may not be the only one who’s allergic to your cat!  Dogs can become allergic to the potent and persistent allergen known as FelD1, found in cat saliva. When the cat licks himself, the saliva dries and flakes off, then floats away.  It’s no wonder there are so many people (and dogs) with allergies to cats: FelD1 is very lightweight and very sticky. It sticks to walls, furniture, carpet and drapes. It also can stay active in a home environment for at least 10 years (yikes!).

As with cats, even people, other dogs, birds, and any other furry critters (rabbits, hamsters, weasels, ferrets, etc.) are possible allergy-inducers. Again, keeping everybody clean makes a difference: no skimping on earthbaths! Also keep in mind that long-haired or fluffy dogs can easily track pollen in on their fur. Even short-haired dogs aren’t immune: pollen clings to their coat easily, even if it may not look like it.  One good shake and it spreads throughout the house.

Treatments:

Wipe-down:  Keep a box of earthbath wipes by the door and in the car and wipe your dogs down before they come inside. Since earthbath makes four different varieties (Green Tea, Mango Tango, Cherry (Puppy), and Hypo-Allergenic), you’ll be able to keep a different flavor at every entry point! Make sure you get between their pads as well as a quick rub down all over their coat. This will greatly reduce the amount of pollen that clings to their fur.

earthbaths!: Bathe your animals regularly, including your cats, and use wipes to rub them down frequently, especially after they clean themselves. For a great “how-to” guide on bathing your cat yourself, check out our blog post which has a lot of great tips on corralling your kitty in the bath! Good thing earthbath has a great cat shampoo (with a delectable cherry scent) and cat wipes (in both Green Tea and Hypo-Allergenic varieties)!

Clean your house: Obviously “fluffy” surfaces like carpets, drapes, pillows, bedding, and fabric couches trap dander much easier and in greater volumes than wipeable surfaces (like wood floors, tile, stone, blinds, leather, etc.) but in both cases, consistent and thorough cleaning can help keep dander at bay.

Purify the air: HEPA air filters are really effective in trapping large amounts of allergens, including pollen, cat allergens, and other air pollutants. Invest in a great quality air purifier, and ensure your vacuum has a HEPA filter as well.

Have you noticed an increase in allergies this summer? How do you deal with them? Share your tips with us! If you leave a comment below and post it to Facebook, you may receive a little earthbath surprise from us!

Summer Coat Care for Dog Paddlers!

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Remember back when you used to go swimming every day during summer… until your hair turned green from all the chlorine? And then you learned – always to rinse after swimming (good), wash (better), or pre-condition your hair before taking a dip (best).

Just because your dog may not be mortified by suddenly morphing locks of green, this doesn’t mean you can (or should) ignore summer swim coat care for him, just as you wouldn’t ignore proper summer hair care protection for yourself!

If your dog loves jumping in the lake, cavorting on the beach, or even diving into the pool, that summer splash factor can wreak havoc on your dog’s shiny coat and itch-free skin unless you take some simple grooming precautions.

For Pool Pooches:

Chlorine is notoriously drying – and dogs aren’t immune to its parching effects either. Dogs who join you in your backyard pool are likely to be more prone to itchy, dry skin and a dull, dry coat because the pool chemicals strip the skin and coat of their naturally protective oils. Remember, too, that a dog’s skin is more sensitive than human skin, with a pH that is nearly neutral (like pure water) – human skin pH is much more acidic, so we can tolerate the harsher acidity of chemicals (like chlorine) much better than our dogs.

Chlorine could even change the color of your dog’s coat: it could affect dark coats by dulling and even bleaching them out, and even turn those platinum blondes (hey golden retrievers, yellow labs, and snow white malteses – we’re talking to you!) green!

How to avoid these pool pitfalls? Just follow these three simple things:

1) Spray down your dog with a coat conditioner like any of our earthbath spritzes before he hits the pool. This conditioning spray will help create a barrier of protection for both his skin and coat from the drying effects of the chlorine.

2) After every swim, rinse him down thoroughly with pure, cool water. Rinse well longer than you think is necessary just so you ensure all pool chemicals and chlorine is completely gone. Towel dry, and then, if you have time (for an even better protective effect), follow with another spritz of earthbath conditioning spritz in your favorite scent! Comb through to get out any mats before they worsen, and to distribute the conditioning spray evenly.

3) Once a week, comb your dog out completely and bathe him thoroughly with any of earthbath’s gentle shampoos and follow with a conditioner. This will ensure any remaining chemical residue is completely washed out, and will also re-moisturize his coat.

Bow Wow, Beach Dog

Though saltwater and a day in the sun can create perfect “sun-kissed beach hair” for us girls, that same sun, salt, and sand can result in nothing but an itchy mess for your dog unless you prep with a few key items:

1) Prep with a moisturizing conditioner or conditioning spray to protect his skin and coat.

2) Before you leave your day at the beach, make sure to give your dog a thorough brushing to get all the sand and grit out of his coat. Brush against the direction of hair growth, and then with it. Then give him a thorough rinsing in those beach showers – rinse him down completely to get rid of any remaining sand and rinse all of the salt out.

3) If he’s still itching later, or perhaps feels a bit grimy or sticky… it’s time for an earthbath! earthbath oatmeal and aloe or tea tree and aloe shampoos are perfect for itchy dogs, as these natural healers will help to soothe itchy spots and areas of discomfort. Generally, if your dog is spending a lot of time with you outdoors and especially at the beach, lake, or pool, a bath once a week as a necessity to keep him clean and comfortable. Definitely make sure to condition, so you’re protecting his skin and coat every time you shampoo. A perfect spritz for hot, itchy dogs is SheaPet’s Herbal Hot Spot & Itch Relief Moisturizing Treatment with Shea Butter & Tea Tree Oil Spritz, a great leave-on herbal skin tonic and coat conditioner.

4) Keep in mind what hot sand does to tender paws! Apply a soothing shea butter balm like SheaPet Aloe and Treatment Balm which is great to heal cracked pads, sun-sore noses, and hot spots.

“Freshwater” Fidos

Unfortunately, freshwater streams, lakes, and rivers are not quite as pristine as you’d like to believe.  Which doesn’t matter to your dog – who (we know from experience) would relish any opportunity to roll in a mud puddle – or to you, if you’re one of the majority of us who live near a body of water that is not an ocean.  Lakes, rivers, and streams are a blast to play in, but many of them contain fairly high levels of algae, sludge, pollutants, bugs, and even leeches!

This means – any dip in the lake should be followed by a full-fledged earthbath afterwards. Take care to observe all of the usual steps you’d take prior to bathing your dog – comb him out thoroughly to remove any mats or tangles, wet him down thoroughly, and scrub him to the skin with a gentle but effective shampoo. Remoisturize with conditioner.

If you’re hitting the pool, lake, or ocean frequently, it’s more important than ever to be using products that won’t strip away the natural oils of the coat and skin – which could do even more damage than not bathing your dog at all. That’s why, if you’re armed with earthbath, you can bathe as often as you like, and never have to worry about irritations!  The only thing you have to concern yourself with, is which of our 11 delicious fragrance options to use… this time!

And with that, the sun’s shining so… we’re off to the beach!

 

A DIY How-To Guide on Doggy Bathtime

Monday, March 28th, 2011

A dog groomer may just be your (and your clean bathroom’s) best friend, but if you’re more inclined to suds-up yourself, either to save money, to bond with your dog, or because entrusting your furbaby to a stranger simply seems to be more stress than you (or he) can bear, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible! Personally, we’ve never been to a professional groomer, and our two 50 pound dogs would be horrified at the very thought!  They have learned to deal with the at-home bathtub experience, low-tech as it may be!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!

Shedding woes, part 1: What does “blowing coat” mean?

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

In this two-part series over the next two weeks, we describe the seasonal insanity that is “blowing coat” and then, detail the best way to manage this massive shedding!

Some dog owners may never come across this dreaded two-word phrase (Looking at you, you single-coated breed owners, you!), but those of us who have the pleasure of sharing our lives (and homes) with the furrier Arctic breeds, made all the fluffier by a warm, dense undercoat,also have the distinct DISPLEASURE of finding great tumbleweeds of fur blowing through our homes once, twice, or even three times a year, depending on the climate, the type of dog, gender, whether or not the dog is “intact,” and how much time s/he spends outside.

In fact, for all the frustration (and extra vacuuming) it can cause, it is completely natural for dogs to “blow coat” once or twice annually, changing their winter coat to a lighter one for summer, as the seasons change. All dogs shed (we humans “shed” hair too – around 100 per day!).  In fact, shedding old, dead hair allows the new coat to grow in. It is actually a bit of a myth that some breeds don’t shed: while all dogs shed, the amount of shedding actually varies greatly from breed to breed. The downside to those breeds that shed little to no hair (for example: terriers, maltese, shih tzus, poodles, bichon frises, and water dogs) is that they usually need to be professionally groomed (or clipped) often, otherwise their fur is highly prone to matting.

The benefit, therefore, of a dog that blows out their coat or sheds consistently year round, is that these breeds typically don’t need much, if any, professional coat-cutting, since nature pretty much takes care of that for you! Even though the term “fur” and “hair” are often used interchangeably to describe a dog’s coat, in general, a double coat (made up of a soft, insulating undercoat underneath a coarser topcoat made up of guard hairs, the longer outer coat hairs), like that of a Siberian Husky, Shiba, Chow Chow, or Samoyed, is correctly referred to as a FUR coat, while a single coat (lacking an undercoat), like that of a shih tzu or a terrier, is actually a HAIR coat.

Evolutionarily, those breeds that originated from the harsh Northern climates needed a dense undercoat to protect and warm them through the frigid winter months, and would shed this undercoat as the need for it waned with the increasing daylight hours of spring and summer months. In today’s world of mostly climate-controlled, pampered and indoor companion animals, the environmental effects of changing seasons and day lengths on fur coats are minimized.  Double-coated dogs that enjoy the outdoors, and as a result, spend most of their time outside, will usually have two distinct seasons of shedding that respond to the changing season from winter to spring and fall to winter. Indoor dogs tend to shed at a fairly consistent and continuous rate, unless other factors trigger a more pronounced shed.

Other things that influence hair growth and shedding include genetics, nutrition, age, sex, health status, season, and the normal hormonal fluctuations of an “intact” dog. I was having a conversation with a dog breeder the other day and she mentioned offhandedly, “oh, yes, I can always tell if a dog is spayed or neutered from the coat. You’ll never see a more beautiful coat than on a fixed dog.” I thought that was an interesting comment, which, in part, prompted my research for this article! And in fact, hormonal levels definitely impact the condition and quantity/type of coat. Spayed and castrated dogs usually have denser undercoats, which gives that fluffy, “cottony” appearance. I am still waiting, however, to see whether or not my two chows (one male, one female, both “fixed”) will in fact, “blow coat” as spring progresses, more than the relatively massive amount of hair that comes out in the nightly brushing session. Maybe they’re in the process already; it’s my first “season” with them, so I have no comparison point. That said, my male chow is shedding more voluminously and much more noticeably from his undercoat than his sister; who basically feels like touching the fluffiest cloud of cotton candy you can imagine.

Read on to Part 2, where we cover (in detail) the best way to manage blowing coats.

As a quick preview, we’ll give you a hint:

Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.