Posts Tagged ‘conditioning’

A DIY How-To Guide on Doggy Bathtime

Monday, March 28th, 2011

A dog groomer may just be your (and your clean bathroom’s) best friend, but if you’re more inclined to suds-up yourself, either to save money, to bond with your dog, or because entrusting your furbaby to a stranger simply seems to be more stress than you (or he) can bear, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible! Personally, we’ve never been to a professional groomer, and our two 50 pound dogs would be horrified at the very thought!  They have learned to deal with the at-home bathtub experience, low-tech as it may be!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!

Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Fun Stuff, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

Shedding woes, part 1: What does “blowing coat” mean?

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

In this two-part series over the next two weeks, we describe the seasonal insanity that is “blowing coat” and then, detail the best way to manage this massive shedding!

Some dog owners may never come across this dreaded two-word phrase (Looking at you, you single-coated breed owners, you!), but those of us who have the pleasure of sharing our lives (and homes) with the furrier Arctic breeds, made all the fluffier by a warm, dense undercoat,also have the distinct DISPLEASURE of finding great tumbleweeds of fur blowing through our homes once, twice, or even three times a year, depending on the climate, the type of dog, gender, whether or not the dog is “intact,” and how much time s/he spends outside.

In fact, for all the frustration (and extra vacuuming) it can cause, it is completely natural for dogs to “blow coat” once or twice annually, changing their winter coat to a lighter one for summer, as the seasons change. All dogs shed (we humans “shed” hair too – around 100 per day!).  In fact, shedding old, dead hair allows the new coat to grow in. It is actually a bit of a myth that some breeds don’t shed: while all dogs shed, the amount of shedding actually varies greatly from breed to breed. The downside to those breeds that shed little to no hair (for example: terriers, maltese, shih tzus, poodles, bichon frises, and water dogs) is that they usually need to be professionally groomed (or clipped) often, otherwise their fur is highly prone to matting.

The benefit, therefore, of a dog that blows out their coat or sheds consistently year round, is that these breeds typically don’t need much, if any, professional coat-cutting, since nature pretty much takes care of that for you! Even though the term “fur” and “hair” are often used interchangeably to describe a dog’s coat, in general, a double coat (made up of a soft, insulating undercoat underneath a coarser topcoat made up of guard hairs, the longer outer coat hairs), like that of a Siberian Husky, Shiba, Chow Chow, or Samoyed, is correctly referred to as a FUR coat, while a single coat (lacking an undercoat), like that of a shih tzu or a terrier, is actually a HAIR coat.

Evolutionarily, those breeds that originated from the harsh Northern climates needed a dense undercoat to protect and warm them through the frigid winter months, and would shed this undercoat as the need for it waned with the increasing daylight hours of spring and summer months. In today’s world of mostly climate-controlled, pampered and indoor companion animals, the environmental effects of changing seasons and day lengths on fur coats are minimized.  Double-coated dogs that enjoy the outdoors, and as a result, spend most of their time outside, will usually have two distinct seasons of shedding that respond to the changing season from winter to spring and fall to winter. Indoor dogs tend to shed at a fairly consistent and continuous rate, unless other factors trigger a more pronounced shed.

Other things that influence hair growth and shedding include genetics, nutrition, age, sex, health status, season, and the normal hormonal fluctuations of an “intact” dog. I was having a conversation with a dog breeder the other day and she mentioned offhandedly, “oh, yes, I can always tell if a dog is spayed or neutered from the coat. You’ll never see a more beautiful coat than on a fixed dog.” I thought that was an interesting comment, which, in part, prompted my research for this article! And in fact, hormonal levels definitely impact the condition and quantity/type of coat. Spayed and castrated dogs usually have denser undercoats, which gives that fluffy, “cottony” appearance. I am still waiting, however, to see whether or not my two chows (one male, one female, both “fixed”) will in fact, “blow coat” as spring progresses, more than the relatively massive amount of hair that comes out in the nightly brushing session. Maybe they’re in the process already; it’s my first “season” with them, so I have no comparison point. That said, my male chow is shedding more voluminously and much more noticeably from his undercoat than his sister; who basically feels like touching the fluffiest cloud of cotton candy you can imagine.

Read on to Part 2, where we cover (in detail) the best way to manage blowing coats.

As a quick preview, we’ll give you a hint:

Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in Breeds, Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Natural Remedies, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

Spring shedding means spring grooming – control the flying fur!

Tuesday, March 16th, 2010

If you’re noticing a lot more pet hair clinging to your clothes or tufting around the corners of your rooms like furry tumbleweeds, fear not, it’s just a sign of the season! Hand in hand with the cheerful flowers and warmer temperatures of spring comes the unwelcome accompaniment of increased shedding. Shedding is one of the biggest complaints of pet owners, and alas, this time of year the problem only gets worse.

While some breeds (e.g.,wire-haired dogs like terriers and schnauzers or curly-haired dogs like poodles, Bichon Frises, and poodle mixes) do shed less than others, only the hairless breeds like the American Hairless Terrier and the Chinese Crested don’t shed at all.

Short-haired dogs like labradors and pugs actually shed the most often and most continuously! Long-haired dogs with an undercoat, like a Siberian husky or Alaskan malamute usually shed once a year in the springtime (and sometimes also in the autumn) by “blowing” their coat with nature’s anticipation of the changing temperatures, which means that their fur will come out in huge chunks.

The good news is that there are several things that you can do to keep the unwanted hair at bay regardless of the way your particular dog sheds. Read on to find out how:

The best option for those of us that don’t enjoy going out covered in an extra layer – of our pets’ hair – is regular grooming. In general, if you brush your dog regularly (which can mean anything from twice a week to every day, depending on the kind of coat your dog has and how much s/he sheds) you’ll notice much less shedding, and will also see the added benefit of a shinier coat and less matting. Brushing spreads the natural oils throughout the coat, removes dead hair that can cause mats, and makes the coat silky.

There are a perplexingly large variety of brush types available, each with special characteristics and attributes that may be more appropriate for one breed and coat-type over another. It’s up to you and perhaps some trial-and-error or the advice of your groomer or vet to find the best brush for your dog’s coat, but this article provides some good guidance on how to choose a brush.

One mistake that some people make is to bathe their dog too frequently, particularly when they notice an increase in shedding. Yes, you’ll get a lot of dead hair out of the coat with a bath but you run the risk of drying out the skin if you shampoo too frequently, and/or use shampoos with harsh ingredients like sulfates, and petroleum-based parabens. That can lead to an increase in dry, flaky skin, uncomfortable itching and a dull coat.

All of earthbath shampoos contain renewable gentle coconut-based cleansers, and never contain parabens, stripping phosphates, harsh pthalates, DEA, or the synthetic dyes or perfumes that can cause irritation. Our shine-enhancing crème rinse and conditioner contains colloidal oatmeal which helps to remoisturize and soothe skin, while bringing out the coat’s natural luster and brilliance. This also won’t wash away topical flea control applications. Shampooing approximately every 6-8 weeks is a good schedule for most dogs. In addition, conditioning is critical in order to detangle and moisturize.

To ensure that your pup isn’t getting too many water-based baths, earthbath also offers waterless grooming foams that ensure easy and irritation-free grooming. Gentle sucrose-based cleansers whisk away dander, dirt, dead hair, and residual saliva, helping control shedding between baths.

An oft neglected but important point is the familiarity with the health of your dog that comes from regular grooming. If you’re regularly grooming your pet, you can become familiar with your dog’s skin and notice if there are any irregularities such as sores, bumps, sensitive spots, or ticks and fleas, which can be treated before they become more dangerous health hazards. Coats that are neglected become matted, which are very difficult and painful (to the pet) to brush out, and can hide skin irritations and sores.

If the flying fur is becoming overwhelming, consider a trip to the doggy salon. The professional bathing which also includes a shampoo massage and conditioning followed by drying equipment loosens a lot of hair, which then gets left behind – on the grooming table – not on your furniture (or in your bathtub)!

Now that warmer weather is around the corner, it’s also the time to start a prevention program to protect your pet against fleas and ticks. Consult with your vet on finding the best product for your pet.

All of us pet owners are familiar with the sacrifices that come with the privilege of allowing a dog or cat (or a few) to share our lives. We are all too happy to get up early and brave the elements for a walk, or suffer the occasional “accident” that needs to be cleaned up. I think we’d all agree: liberal use of the lint roller and vacuum are a small price to pay for the unconditional love and daily rewards our animal companions offer us.

Image credit: Sasha Gulish Photography

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in Canine Health, Cats, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding | 1 Comment »

The skinny on cold-weather grooming: Top 5 Tips

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

Though the calendar may (finally) say March, the majority of the U.S. is unfortunately still firmly clutched by the icy grip of winter with no immediate signs of relief. In this frigid and dry season, we find ourselves reaching for the heavy-duty lotion and lip balm to stave off the effects of freezing temperatures, whipping wind, and moisture-robbing indoor heat.

Our pets’ skin and fur coats are also not immune to winter’s harsh effects, and contrary to popular belief, dogs don’t need less grooming in the winter. In fact, many dogs’ coats actually need more attention. In the summertime, a lot of pet owners give their dogs (and even longhaired cats) close cropped cuts or even have their coats shaved to help them stay cool in the high temperatures and humidity of summer. However, in the winter, it’s natural for pet owners to let their pets’ hair grow out to provide additional warmth in the cold.  As anyone who has ever had experience with a longer-haired dog or cat knows, fur and long coats can easily become matted or tangled, causing discomfort and even overheating. Mats can become painful to pets, especially if they form close to the skin, and the natural tendency for animals is to scratch or bite away at the mat, which causes even more skin irritation. Playing outside in the muddy slush ensures dirt and snow gets splashed all the way up a dog’s legs and belly, and the salt and sand that helps to melt snow from the sidewalks and streets is ultra-irritating when it gets in fur and can dry paw pads and skin out even further.

So, what’s the best way to prevent mats, skin irritation, dry, itchy winter skin, and ensure your pet is warm and comfortable through good grooming?

1.) Get those strokes in! Brush daily if possible, but at least every other day or once every three days at a minimum, even if your dog or cat is short-haired. Regular brushing ensures shinier coats, less shedding, and prevents matting by ridding coats of the dead hairs that stick and cause mats.

2.) Keep up the grooming: Whether you bathe and brush your pets at home or take them to a professional groomer, regular grooming (both brushing and bathing) ensures the natural oils in the skin are stimulated, naturally moisturizing and creating shine, which all helps to prevent itchy dry winter skin.

3.) Bathe based on coat length (and smelliness!): You’re probably the best judge of how frequently your furry friend needs a bath, but in general, long-haired dogs should get a bath about every few weeks while short-haired pets can go anywhere from 1 to 3 months. Some cats never get baths at home (or ever), as many cat owners find the trauma (to both human and water-hating cats) of a full water bath too much to bear. However, cats’ coats and skin benefit from periodic shampoos and conditioning, just as dogs and humans do, which many cat owners don’t realize! Here’s where a professional groomer can come in handy, as well as regular brushing and #4 (wipes)…

4.) Easy, at-home maintenance with between-bath wipes are an easy way to spot-clean and condition Fido or Fluffy between professional grooming visits or full baths. Earthbath wipes come in several formulations and scents, including green tea, mango tango, hypo-allergenic, and formulas specifically for puppies and cats.

5.) Choose gentle, extra-emollient and all-natural ingredients, like oatmeal (Try our Oatmeal & Aloe Shampoo) and aloe (contained in our Hypo-Allergenic formulas), and avoid chemical ingredients such as sodium laurel sulfate and parabens, which can dry out the skin even more.

In the meantime, lotion up and enjoy the last days of snow and winter chill… the warm days of spring around the corner will be just that much sweeter!

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in Canine Health, Cats, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | 2 Comments »