Posts Tagged ‘dog bath’

Shedding woes, part 1: What does “blowing coat” mean?

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

In this two-part series over the next two weeks, we describe the seasonal insanity that is “blowing coat” and then, detail the best way to manage this massive shedding!

Some dog owners may never come across this dreaded two-word phrase (Looking at you, you single-coated breed owners, you!), but those of us who have the pleasure of sharing our lives (and homes) with the furrier Arctic breeds, made all the fluffier by a warm, dense undercoat,also have the distinct DISPLEASURE of finding great tumbleweeds of fur blowing through our homes once, twice, or even three times a year, depending on the climate, the type of dog, gender, whether or not the dog is “intact,” and how much time s/he spends outside.

In fact, for all the frustration (and extra vacuuming) it can cause, it is completely natural for dogs to “blow coat” once or twice annually, changing their winter coat to a lighter one for summer, as the seasons change. All dogs shed (we humans “shed” hair too – around 100 per day!).  In fact, shedding old, dead hair allows the new coat to grow in. It is actually a bit of a myth that some breeds don’t shed: while all dogs shed, the amount of shedding actually varies greatly from breed to breed. The downside to those breeds that shed little to no hair (for example: terriers, maltese, shih tzus, poodles, bichon frises, and water dogs) is that they usually need to be professionally groomed (or clipped) often, otherwise their fur is highly prone to matting.

The benefit, therefore, of a dog that blows out their coat or sheds consistently year round, is that these breeds typically don’t need much, if any, professional coat-cutting, since nature pretty much takes care of that for you! Even though the term “fur” and “hair” are often used interchangeably to describe a dog’s coat, in general, a double coat (made up of a soft, insulating undercoat underneath a coarser topcoat made up of guard hairs, the longer outer coat hairs), like that of a Siberian Husky, Shiba, Chow Chow, or Samoyed, is correctly referred to as a FUR coat, while a single coat (lacking an undercoat), like that of a shih tzu or a terrier, is actually a HAIR coat.

Evolutionarily, those breeds that originated from the harsh Northern climates needed a dense undercoat to protect and warm them through the frigid winter months, and would shed this undercoat as the need for it waned with the increasing daylight hours of spring and summer months. In today’s world of mostly climate-controlled, pampered and indoor companion animals, the environmental effects of changing seasons and day lengths on fur coats are minimized.  Double-coated dogs that enjoy the outdoors, and as a result, spend most of their time outside, will usually have two distinct seasons of shedding that respond to the changing season from winter to spring and fall to winter. Indoor dogs tend to shed at a fairly consistent and continuous rate, unless other factors trigger a more pronounced shed.

Other things that influence hair growth and shedding include genetics, nutrition, age, sex, health status, season, and the normal hormonal fluctuations of an “intact” dog. I was having a conversation with a dog breeder the other day and she mentioned offhandedly, “oh, yes, I can always tell if a dog is spayed or neutered from the coat. You’ll never see a more beautiful coat than on a fixed dog.” I thought that was an interesting comment, which, in part, prompted my research for this article! And in fact, hormonal levels definitely impact the condition and quantity/type of coat. Spayed and castrated dogs usually have denser undercoats, which gives that fluffy, “cottony” appearance. I am still waiting, however, to see whether or not my two chows (one male, one female, both “fixed”) will in fact, “blow coat” as spring progresses, more than the relatively massive amount of hair that comes out in the nightly brushing session. Maybe they’re in the process already; it’s my first “season” with them, so I have no comparison point. That said, my male chow is shedding more voluminously and much more noticeably from his undercoat than his sister; who basically feels like touching the fluffiest cloud of cotton candy you can imagine.

Read on to Part 2, where we cover (in detail) the best way to manage blowing coats.

As a quick preview, we’ll give you a hint:

Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.

Grooming Puppies and earthbath Wipes

Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010

As a new puppy (actually, puppies) owner (yes, those are my lil’ furbabies), the following items are indispensable to me:

1) Tons of tiny training treats in a variety of flavors and textures (puppies want to learn, are food-motivated, and get bored easily)
2) lots and lots of old rags and towels
3) white vinegar (to go with the old rags and towels…)
4) patience
and…
5) earthbath puppy wipes

Puppies get messy and dirty in a very, um, indiscriminate way, and I found these wipes imperative to keep both the puppies, and my house, clean. This was made clear to me this week when I ran out, didn’t have any in reserve, and figured, oh well, I can probably make do with a wet cloth till I can get some more…

Not so fast. A warm wet cloth is great for some things, like un-sticking gummy, glue-y goo from sensitive puppy eyes, but for wet, muddy paws, and the dreaded poopy bottom (not to get too scatological on you’re here, but chances are, if you have a dog, cat, or any little creature that’s dependent on you for its well-being, you’re all too familiar with such things). You might mean well by training your puppy to stand perfectly still for a full grooming session and/or bath, but it’s neither feasible nor desired, from either your or your puppy’s point of view, to give your puppy daily baths and full grooming sessions. It IS, however, perfectly reasonable to get your puppy used to being handled, particularly around his sensitive paw pads and nails, by giving a quick swipe-down after every outing, particularly after a romp in the rain or through muddy grass. –> 

Perhaps surprisingly, many owners (wrongly) think that it’s a mistake to bathe or brush dogs under six months of age. They worry that bathing will dry out the coat or that brushing may be too rough on a puppy’s sensitive skin at this age. The opposite is actually true. This is the best time, as with all training, to get your puppy used to a routine which will stay with him throughout his whole life. It’s going to be much easier on both of you in the long run, if you start getting him used to grooming sessions as early as possible.

The same goes for brushing: if you have a full-coated dog, regular brushing is an absolutely necessary part of your canine maintenance routine, as crucial to keeping your dog healthy and comfortable, as it is to feed him well and give him enough exercise. Brushing daily gives you time to examine your dog’s coat and skin and identify and remove anything like pests (e.g., fleas or ticks), burrs, thorns, disgusting-who-knows-what, tangles and mats immediately before they become larger problems. It also feels great to puppies, and especially to older dogs. Remember having your hair brushed by your mom? If you were like me, you used to beg her to brush your hair each night because it felt so good (unless she was yanking out tangles). Brushing is just as important for dogs as it is for humans, in that it cleans the coat, removes loose hair, and stimulates natural oil production to help keep the coat lush and conditioned. At this young age, just as with all training, keep the sessions short but consistent. Then the puppy will think of brushing as just another form of petting. If you start early enough, and pair the brushing with rewards, both you and he will come to look forward to this sweet time together as a relaxing part of the day.

When it’s bath time, make sure to use a shampoo specifically formulated for sensitive skin and/or for puppies, and have lots of treats on hand. The average puppy probably needs a bath at least weekly, if not more frequently, depending on what he gets into. This not only helps keep your puppy smelling more like a daisy and less like “dirty dog,” but it also helps to prevent skin infections that are caused by unhygienic conditions. I’ve been told that most puppies, especially those that are very young, enjoy the bathing process. Not mine. That’s why wipes come in so handy for me! They help prolong the time I can go between baths!

I’ve got to run… gotta go brush some puppies and pick up some more earthbath wipes. It’s been a rainy day and it’s not letting up all week! Prediction: Chance of muddy paws: 100%.

How often should I bathe my dog?

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Recently, we got this great question posted on our Facebook wall by a great pet store named Dolittles in Charleston, SC: We suggested dogs be bathed not more than every 2-3 weeks to reduce the potential of their bodies overproducing natural oils (a sometimes smelly proposition). A fan then posted a comment asking: “but doesn’t clean hair grow faster and stronger?” We hope there is a happy medium, and thought… our friends at earthbath might offer their opinion on this subject.

The simple answer, is, “it depends.” Sorry, it’s not so simple! Glibness aside, what we mean by this is: how often you bathe your dog depends on many individual factors such as what breed of dog you have, any specific skin sensitivities and allergies, coat type, your lifestyle and the climate you live in (humid & hot, hot & dry, windy & cold), what season it is, your dog’s activity level (which may vary based on climate, season, breed, and your lifestyle…), and of course, the kind of shampoo you use! You can be confident in bathing your dog much more frequently if you know the shampoo is chock full of nothing but the most gentle and pure ingredients, containing nothing that will irritate your dog’s skin.

Generally speaking, you will know that your active dog is in dire need of a bath when he is covered in mud from rolling around the yard, matted with muck from the other slobbery dogs at the dog park, or after summer adventures spent playing in a barn, romping through the fields, and/or swimming in a algae-covered lake. That said, if your dog is so active that he cavorts like this every day, you should probably give him a full bath every week to ten days, and in the interim, compromise with other in-between cleansing options like quick and easy wipes (which are gentle enough to use multiple times a day after every outing, especially on paws, and icky areas like goo-encrusted eyes and waxy ears) waterless foams (just rub on and towel off) and the all-important spritz to keep doggy smells at bay. Of course, earthbath makes it uber-easy for despairing owners of dirty dogs, with many different bath and cleansing options, all designed to work together to keep to keep both muck-loving dogs and human family members happy!

In contrast, a lap dog who would never deign to get her princess paws dirty, let alone roll around in the mud, needs a bath much less frequently, and could probably get by on a good brushing, some earthbath wipes and the occasional waterless foam bath.

Again, depending on where you live, how you live, how much time you have, or money, if you turn over grooming duties to someone else, and grooming needs your dog’s coat requires you could get away with bathing your dog every couple of months, or may need to undertake some combination of grooming (even if it’s just a swipe with an earthbath wipe and a brushing) each day.

Here are some more specific guidelines on answering this recurrent question…

1. What Kind of Coat Does Your Dog Wear?

  • Double or undercoat dogs (i.e. Siberian Huskies, Pekingese, Chow Chows), should have a bath once every 2 to 6 weeks (depending on activity level and how dirty they get); though they should be brushed weekly, at least, to prevent mats and “hot spots” (areas of moisture trapped in their undercoat) which can become quite painful and infected.
  • Silky long coat (ie. Shih Tzus, Yorkies, Lhasa Apsos), should bathe once every 3 to 6 weeks, but lavish brushing love on these divas daily!
  • Non-shedding curly coat (ie. Poodles), bathe ‘em once every 6 to 8 weeks
  • Smooth, short coat (ie. Chihuahua, Boston Terrier), bathe no more than once every couple of months or only when the dog is noticeably dirty: These dogs have more sensitive skin, due to their short coats. Frequent baths will wash away the protective waterproofing oils produced by the skin.
  • Wiry/Coarse coat (ie. Schnauzers and most terriers), bathe once every 4 to 6 weeks, though these breeds can often develop dry skin and skin sensitivities.

Of course, and we can’t stress this enough, the best way to keep your dog’s coat shiny and healthy, with no skin irritations including itchies, hot spots, and dandruff, is to feed them a very high quality grain-free diet high in natural proteins, and bathe with pure, gentle soap-free, pH balanced earthbath products, where we live (and bathe) by the motto: “People-Tested & Pet Approved.”

If you’re bathing frequently, consider what you’re bathing with. If you’re using a cheap sulfate-laden shampoo, rife with harsh and unnatural ingredients including phthalates, parabens (oil based), and artificial colors and fragrances, you’ll end up with more problems than a dirty dog, and will end up spending more money to treat the ensuing problems than you would have at the outset on a better quality shampoo.

2. It’s A Dog’s Life…

Mud-Lovers: If your dog is never as happy as when he’s just jumped head first into a mud-puddle (like this one), and loves to roll around in the mud every chance he gets, you may have to bathe him every time he does (unless you enjoy mud-adorned furniture and floors). Assuming he’s not getting daily mud baths, you can just brush out small amounts of dry dirt in his fur. In between full baths, our grooming foams are great for removing excess oil and grime in the coat but if you’re dog is pretty filthy, into the tub he should go! If your dog lives in a perpetually wet environment (like, say, the great but soggy Pacific Northwest in winter), and as a result, gets muddy almost every time he goes out, the best shampoo is one that is completely hypoallergenic and ultra-mild, such as earthbath’s Hypo-Allergenic Shampoo or earthbath Clear Advantages. Any old shampoo (including most human shampoos) will completely strip away his natural oils in no time. All of earthbath shampoos are soap-free, hypo-allergenic, and pH-balanced to clean gently, thoroughly, and safely. Even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because earthbath uses only mild, safe, non-irritants.

Swimmers: If your dog is a water-loving breed like a Newfoundland, Lab, or Water Retriever, you’ll have to give him a bath after almost every swim to wash out the chlorine (from the pool) or the salt water (from the ocean), though you could probably get away with some rinse-only cycles in between full baths.  Most important for these dogs is a good conditioner like our All-Natural Crème Rinse & Conditioner to retain the natural oils in his lustrous coat since all of that water play is robbing his skin of protective oils, in addition to the frequent baths.

Daily Walkers: For “normal” dogs that just go outside to relieve themselves and exercise on a brief daily walk, keep the box of earthbath wipes by the door, (and in the car while we’re at it) in whatever “flavor” is your fave, to make sure he doesn’t track the street (or the neighbor’s dog’s poo) all over your brand new Oriental rug.

3. Climate: One Hot Dog Please! (Hold the mustard)

All dogs require more baths during the summer: after all, it’s the season of tick and flea infestation (wonderful), not to mention increased oil production and generally more time spent outdoors playing.  Bathe weekly or every two weeks, depending on your (and your dog’s) preference, keeping those other water-free alternatives nearby.

4. Skin Allergies and Disorders

Some of our beloved furry friends have skin allergies and sensitivities that can make it difficult to get clean and remain simultaneously happy. (Puppies & kittens often fall into this category.) earthbath solved this dilemma by blending the finest natural ingredients into our mild, hypo-allergenic, tearless shampoo. It cleanses thoroughly and safely, and even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because we used only mild, safe, non-irritants. To be perfectly honest, we’ve heard from many people with problems that they see much better results with our shampoo than those (high priced, stinky) medicated dog shampoos sold at the vet’s office, but of course, we must stress the importance of consulting with your vet on any suspected health problem, including skin issues, and following your vet’s advice!

After all, maybe your dog is onto something…

Keeping Your Water-Loving Dog Smelling Fresh as a Daisy: How to Bathe Your Dog

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

If you’re looking forward to spending the summer at a lake or at the beach, your four-legged companion will undoubtedly join you happily. Most dogs love to swim, though others have no interest in messing up their fur with a jump in the lake! There are a few breeds that are known for being expert swimmers, and actually, need regular exercise in the water to keep them happy and well behaved.  A few of these breeds are among the most popular dog breeds in the U.S., including the Golden Retriever, Labrador, and Spaniels.  Though these dogs may relish any opportunity to jump in any body of water, you may not feel the same way (particularly about the after-effects!). Read on for some tips on the best ways to care for and groom your water-loving dogs, as well as a few interesting facts on some of the more popular breeds!

Doggy Bath Time:

One of the most common questions we’re asked is “How often should I bathe my dog?” Unfortunately, the answer is all-too-common: “it depends.” Specifically, the frequency of bathing depends a lot on your dog including its breed, its activity level, what it does when it plays and where it roams. Some dogs just get stinky faster than other dogs. For example, retrievers and other water dogs have naturally oily coats (to more easily repel water), so, while this “design element” (to borrow a term from the fashion industry…) is great for quick-drying coats between jumping in and out of the water, it’s not so great for keeping them clean and odor-free! As a result, they get a case of “doggy odor” faster than some other breeds.

In contrast, short-haired dogs and dogs that spend a lot of time inside also generally need fewer baths than long-haired breeds or dogs that love to go outside and roll around in disgusting things. In all honesty, your nose will tell you how often you need to bathe your dog. However, be aware that bathing a dog too often can be bad for his skin because it strips off the protective oils. This is where wipes, waterless grooming foams and spritzes come in handy. All or any of these products can be used between baths or trips to the groomers for an easy and deodorizing clean-up!

In fact, one of our earthbath fans writes:

  • My Golden Lab has his own kiddie pool that I put out everytime it’s warm. He goes nuts! and right after I dry off his easy drying fur and spray on Vanilla Almond spritz, give him a little brush, and in 1 minute he’s dry clean handsome and sooo good smelling. He makes the bedroom smell great at night.

Now that’s ingenious…  Thanks Elizabeth, for the tip! Now we can think about our dogs doing double duty as a room deodorizer (in addition to foot warmer and/or huggy-pillow)! We never thought of that before!

Now that it’s bath time, however, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!

These breeds are especially known for their innate desire to make a splash, and in fact, many of these breeds actually have webbed feet, a visible sign of their true “water” natures!  Do you have one of these breeds highlighted below? We’d love to hear your water stories and tips for keeping them clean and smelling fresh! If you haven’t yet, join us on Facebook and share your pics and stories with the earthbath community of pet lovers!

  • Portugese Water Dog: The adorable and highly intelligent Portugese Water Dog has catapulted to worldwide attention by the very public pet-selection process of the Obamas upon their arrival to the White House, when they chose Bo, a beautiful curly haired black Portugese Water Dog, to be “First Dog.” Prior to Bo’s arrival in the White House, the Portugese Water Dog was considered to be a rare breed that was originally bred to drive fish into fishermen’s nets, retrieve lost tackle and nets, and to carry messages from ship to ship, or from ship to the land! The Portugese Water Dog is considered hypoallergenic and doesn’t shed. This breed is a very active dog, both intellectually and physically, and must be kept mentally and physically occupied!
  • Labrador Retriever: Considered the most popular dog in the world today, the Labrador Retriever is known to be an excellent family companion. Unfortunately, due to over-breeding, there are many of these wonderful dogs in rescue shelters today. If you are seeking to purchase a puppy, make sure you do so from a reputable source. Labs have a long puppy hood and are often clumsy until they mature (around 3 years of age). These dogs were bred for hunting waterfowl, so be prepared for a dog that will eagerly go for a swim at any opportunity! Their thick coats are somewhat water-repellant.
  • Other Retrievers, including the Chesapeake Bay Retriever (who have webbed toes!) Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever,(a hunting dog whose unusual markings actually lures ducks to them – aka, “tolling”!) and Golden Retriever: Golden Retrievers are right up there with Labs on the list of popular family dogs! These large dogs were bred to retrieve waterfowl and have an instinctual draw to bodies of water – it’s difficult to keep them out of the water if there is a lake or stream in sight! As a result of their breeding to retrieve from the water, their coat is “dense, waxy, and waterproof.” These are exceptionally friendly dogs who are known for their outgoing demeanor though they are a very active, high-energy dog. Be prepared to go on lots of long walks, runs and swims with your Golden!
  • Spaniels, including the Cocker Spaniel, American Water Spaniel, and Irish Water Spaniel: Spaniels are gentle dogs that love their families, but are known to be shy with strangers. They are great companions for children and do well with other animals. The Irish Water Spaniels have a dense, curly coat that has a tendency to be very low in shedding, which makes them a good choice for those who suffer from allergies. They also have webbed feet to aid their swimming habits!
  • Standard Poodle: Poodles, often mistaken for “prissy” dogs due to the specific “poofy” way they are groomed, are actually great working dogs! Poodles were originally bred to be fantastic retrievers and gundogs. In fact, the show cuts you see on Poodles were originally created for a very functional purpose: the “poofs” were designed to protect the dog’s major joints when it was immersed in cold water. The Standard Poodle is highly intelligent and easy to train. The breed makes an excellent family pet and is considered to be hypoallergenic.
  • Setters, including the Irish Setter and English Setter: All setters need to have lots of activity and stimulation, including lots of great opportunities for swims! Because they were originally bred as hunting and pointing dogs, they have a propensity for running and highly active lifestyles, and always enjoy a good wade in a pond or stream.
  • Newfoundlands create a massive splash as the largest dog on this list and are renowned for their work in water rescue! These dogs were originally bred to pull in fishnets and other heavy equipment. “Newfys” are known for their sweet, mellow personalities and their slobbery jowls! These dogs usually weigh in between 100 and 150 lbs! Newfoundlands have a natural fondness for children. Their long coats need to be brushed on a regular basis.