Posts Tagged ‘Grooming’

Preventing Doggy Swimmer’s Ear!

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

Summertime brings with it longer days, sun-drenched vacations, and necessary escapes to the nearest body of water to cool down. For dogs who like to hit the lake, beach, or pool with you, this increased time in the water also increases the risk of painful ear infections.

When water enters the ear canal, the perfect environment – dark and wet – is created for bacterial and yeast to grow in. Dogs swim “doggy paddle” style, with their head above water, but that doesn’t mean that water won’t splash up into their ears, and sometimes, dogs submerge themselves to fetch a stick or water toy.

To prevent ear infections in your dog, you can always proactively place cotton balls in their ears (pre-swim and definitely pre-bath), but after a swim or bath, make sure to dry out the insides of your dog’s ears as thoroughly as you can with a towel or more cotton balls. Never use q-tips because it’s just too easy to puncture their delicate ear drum.

Floppy-eared dogs are most at risk for ear infections, because those lovable floppy ear flaps can prevent your dog’s ears from air-drying after a swim, so if your dog has two of these (floppy ears, that is), take extra-special care to ensure they are dried out as much as possible!

Your veterinarian can even prescribe a special ear wash that you can apply weekly or even monthly to help keep ears clean and free of waxy buildup and bacterial and yeast growth – so if you think your dog would be a good candidate for something like this, ask your vet!

Head-Scratching Symptoms?

If your dog starts shaking his head repeatedly or without any discernible cause (or effect), starts scratching at his ears, or if you see any redness inside his ears, it’s definitely time to call the vet. It’s easy enough to treat an ear infection in dogs (just as it is in humans), but if they are left untreated, they can spread deeply inside the ear canal and become extremely painful. It’s up to you to notice any changes in your dog’s behavior and appearance, to ensure he’s his most comfortable and happy, since your dog isn’t going to start speaking English anytime soon (though you may be fluent in “dog”).

 

Shiny coats = happy, healthy dogs

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

Hair matters. Remember that old shampoo commercial: “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful?” as the model swung her luscious, full, shiny mane of hair in slow motion towards the camera? It was pretty darn effective: sales of that brand of shampoo soared, and the tagline is still memorable today, at least 15 years later.

Even as styles and even ideal weights and body sizes have varied throughout cultures and different eras, shiny, full, bouncy hair has always been desirable, and a sign of youth, health, and attractiveness.

The dog with a pretty, shiny coat and the sparkly eyes will always be adopted first, over the dog with a scruffy, patchy coat with bald spots and dull eyes.

…Oh, did you think I was talking about women?

Well, maybe I was initially. But just as in humans, in dogs, how supple, smooth, and shiny the skin and hair (or fur) appears is an externally visible reflection of overall health.

If your dog has a dull, dry coat, this is an external indication of poor nutritional health. A good diet is essential to good coat health, but just as in humans, a good skin and haircare (or coat care) routine is necessary to supplement a good diet.

Key (food) ingredients to good hair and coat health (take notes, not just for your canine friend, but for yourself too!) are:

  • Linoleic acid: This is an Omega-6 fatty acid that supports the proper functioning of the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without the proper production of skin oils, over time, the coat will look dry and lusterless. In addition, linoleic acid helps to prevent water loss from the skin.
  • Omega-3 fatty acids (notably, EPA and DHA): These are considered to be the foundation of healthy skin, and are also recommended to support organ function such as heart and kidney function and joint health. EPA and DHA are the Omega-3 fatty acids that work at the cellular level to help the immune system react optimally when it faces challenges.
  • Vitamins A, C, and E; and Zinc: These vitamins and the mineral Zinc help to neutralize free radicals that can harm cells.
  • B vitamins (including biotin): B’s are critical to proper cellular functioning, including skin and hair health.
  • Choline and Inositol: These substances help to maintain the integrity of skin cells.

Of course, ideal hair/coat-care consists of a two-pronged strategy – from the inside-out (what you eat shows up in your glowing skin and shiny, lush hair/fur), and also, from the outside-in. Your hair (and coat-care) products really do matter. That’s why we’ve spent so much time crafting the best quality shampoo and conditioning products possible. Here are some key things to look for in your pet shampoo and coat care products:

Because dog’s skin and coat is so sensitive, it’s crucial that you never use harsh cleansers - soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue behind.

  • The cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, soap-free, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.
  • Use a pH-balanced cleanser. Dogs’ skin pH is almost neutral, meaning that the pH balanced shampoos for HUMANS will be much more acidic and as a result, highly irritating to their much more sensitive skin.
  • Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners are key to replacing the nourishing oils that can be washed away, and skin-soothing ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal promote healing of skin irritations and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin.

 

What makes a quality dog shampoo?

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011

We are passionate about animals: especially the dogs, cats, and horses who share our lives, our homes, and our beds (well, hopefully your horses aren’t sharing your bed!). Because our pets are family members too, we feel that they deserve nothing but the best. This is why we do what we do: simply, to create the best, most animal- and eco-friendly grooming formulas for our pets. (Not to mention, for you too: we won’t tell anyone if you steal your dog’s Mango Tango – and you probably will, once you get a whiff of the delicious fragrance!)

Over the years, we’ve gotten a lot of questions about what exactly makes earthbath a top-quality shampoo and what differentiates earthbath from the other brands on the market. When we started, we were asking these questions too, because we wanted to ensure we created the best product possible.

A high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner must always have a few vitally important components:

1) A pH value that is especially formulated for a dog’s delicate skin (between 6.5 to 7.5), since a dog’s skin pH is more neutral than a human’s. The pH of dog’s skin is about 7.5 where a human’s skin is about 5.5, on the standard pH scale from 0 to 14. The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. A pH of 7 is neutral (pure water has a pH of 7.0). A pH less than 7 is acidic, where each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, pH 4 is ten times more acidic than pH 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than pH 6. The same holds true for pH values above 7, each of which is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value.

A dog’s skin is very close to a neutral pH, and significantly more alkaline than human skin, so the kind of shampoo you use on your dog should be much more neutral in pH than the typical pH value of shampoo formulated for human hair (“pH balanced” shampoos for humans are around 4.5-5.5, making them much more acidic, and ultimately very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin). Over time, acidic shampoos also strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Never use human shampoo on your dog… even though it’s okay to use your dog’s shampoo (as long as it’s earthbath :-) ) on your hair – the alkalinic nature of earthbath shampoo will not hurt your hair, and in fact, is milder than the mildest baby shampoo! All of earthbath shampoos are formulated with a pH as close to 7.0 as possible.

2) Mild cleansing ingredients; ideally soap-free. Soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue. All earthbath products are soap-free; the cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.

3) Easy to rinse out so nothing is left behind on the fur or skin. earthbath worked with veterinarians & groomers to develop ultra-mild shampoos that wash out super easily, with ingredients that are 100% natural, non-toxic, paraben-free, phthalate-free, animal-byproduct-free, and phosphate-free. Even if a tiny bit is left behind, there is nothing harmful in earthbath products to irritate your dog’s skin or fur, and you don’t need to worry about upset tummies following any licking or grooming! Since there is nothing artificial or harmful (to either plants or animals) in our products you never have to worry about the effect giving your dog a bath has on the environment either!

4)  Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners to help the skin and coat maintain their healthy feel and shine. earthbath products contain all-natural ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal, both recommended by veterinarians to effectively combat skin irritation, promote healing, and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin. Almost all of our shampoos contain aloe vera for extra moisturizing, including our bestselling Clear Advantages, and our Hypo-Allergenic, just for those extra-sensitive or allergic dogs. Though all of earthbath shampoos are effective and mild, if you have a dog plagued by the itchies, you’ll definitely want to check out our Oatmeal and Aloe shampoo.

People-Tested & Pet Approved!

Really…

We aren’t kidding when we say “People-Tested!”  Our CEO Paul personally tests every product on himself, and many people write to tell us how their whole family uses earthbath Puppy (“we LOVE the cherry scent!”)/Mango Tango (“it smells better than any other shampoo I’ve ever bought!”)/Green Tea Leaf (“hands down, my favorite!”)/or one of our other twelve shampoos! Try one today and tell us which one you love most!

Shedding Woes, Part 2: Tips on Managing Blowing Coats

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011

Last week we explained the finer points of shedding, and more specifically, the huge annual or bi-annual event termed “blowing coat” experienced by double-coated dog breeds. Whether or not you have a dog that blows out his undercoat this spring, if you have a dog, you have dog hair issues. So, to make your life a little less hairy, the following tips will help you keep the flying fur under control (and your vacuum cleaners in good working order).

Simply: Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.

To expand upon this, read on:

1) Consistent grooming. The dog hair is going to fall out one way or another, and for a few reasons, it is best to remove it yourself by brushing.  The more hair YOU remove, the less you will see tufting and wafting by, all over your house. During shedding season, it’s best if you can brush your dog once a day, at least. For those dogs that blow out their coat, you could probably spend all day brushing, amidst a continual fur explosion!

Pet hair can also clog air vents and heating ducts, causing a great deal of respiratory ailments and allergies, so make sure you get your air ducts cleaned annually if you have dogs and/or cats. Better yet, invest in a good quality air purifier for at least your bedroom, and have your air ducts and dryer vents checked and cleaned in direct proportion to the number of animals and the volume of fur that you have.

2) Brushing, Brushing, and more… Brushing: To avoid or at least reduce the build up of dog hair in your house, air vents, and in your furniture and rugs, it’s best to brush out your dog outside. Brush a couple of times a day, or as often as you can, with a few different kinds of brushes. The best kind of brush to use for a double-coated dog shedding his undercoat is a double-row undercoat rake with rotating teeth. This will penetrate through the thick coat, removing only the loose undercoat fur, leaving the exterior guard hairs untouched and intact. Many people also love the FURminator, basically, another form of an undercoat tool that is designed to grab and remove the loose undercoat without cutting the coat.

Brushing out your dog’s coat, contrary to many people’s belief, is not a matter of vanity. It is important for your dog’s health as well as for your own health and housekeeping that you keep the fur under control! Though nature intends for this coat to be shed, if it’s not helped along by brushing, the dead hair can easily get matted and caught in the rest of the coat, which can attract fleas, mites, and ticks, as well as being a cause of skin irritation and pain on its own.

3) Bathe your dog! For a step-by-step guide on how to bathe your dog, see our post on this topic! Many double-coated dog owners bathe more frequently than usual during coat-blowing season, since bathing helps to speed the shedding process by loosening the undercoat that hasn’t shed out yet, so it’s even more essential that you use a soap-free, non-irritating, additive and paraben-free shampoo (you’ll be safe with any of earthbath’s “flavors”) if you’re washing often. One of our Facebook fans, who is also a professional dog groomer and an earthbath-exclusive user gave us her secret regimen for managing excessive shedding: “First, de-shed in the tub with a slicker, then a single rake, double rake and finally a comb while the shampoo is on. Rinse, then put in conditioner, massage in, and use a high velocity blower right near the skin to loosen up any other hair that is ready to go,comb again and rinse. I use the High Velocity and stand dryer to dry. This prevents all the hair and dander flying all over the place and getting into the lungs. It is also always better for the coat and less damaging to brush it out when wet, rather than brushing dry hair.” Great tip!

4) Condition and loosen mats with coat-conditioner or conditioning spritz: We love earthbath’s creme rinse and conditioner and our Puppy spritz in cherry-scent! After you moisturize any tangles or mats, use a mat-breaker which is specially designed “comb-like” tool with blades that easily cuts through the mats evenly and painlessly (if you use it correctly), so chunks of fur are not left missing, and your dog remains comfortable and pain-free.

5) Give an Omega-3 fish oil supplement daily or add a tablespoon of olive oil to your dog’s dinner. Omega-3 fatty acids are essential for a healthy coat and skin, not to mention, really great for joint health, so Omega-3s are wonderful, multi-functional supplements to add! Some people claim that Omega-3 fatty acids even reduce shedding because it helps keep the fur healthy. Just make sure you get the most natural form of Omega-3, with DHA. My dog eats Omega-3 capsules like a treat (I don’t know how!) but if yours does not, I would advise going the olive oil route, or inserting the pill in a pill pocket or piece of cheese!

This isn’t snow… it’s the fur a Siberian husky shed while he blew coat! It may be nice to know that all of this fur could actually be used, rather than thrown out. How? You can donate it to be used to clean up oil spills. After the Gulf Oil Spill, we found out that an organization called Matter of Trust collects donated hair and fur to create “booms” and large mats which are used to soak up the oil from oil spills (many of which we never even hear about, including motor oil runoff in our waterways).  Hair and fur are actually among the most effective materials that soak up oil.

Shedding woes, part 1: What does “blowing coat” mean?

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

In this two-part series over the next two weeks, we describe the seasonal insanity that is “blowing coat” and then, detail the best way to manage this massive shedding!

Some dog owners may never come across this dreaded two-word phrase (Looking at you, you single-coated breed owners, you!), but those of us who have the pleasure of sharing our lives (and homes) with the furrier Arctic breeds, made all the fluffier by a warm, dense undercoat,also have the distinct DISPLEASURE of finding great tumbleweeds of fur blowing through our homes once, twice, or even three times a year, depending on the climate, the type of dog, gender, whether or not the dog is “intact,” and how much time s/he spends outside.

In fact, for all the frustration (and extra vacuuming) it can cause, it is completely natural for dogs to “blow coat” once or twice annually, changing their winter coat to a lighter one for summer, as the seasons change. All dogs shed (we humans “shed” hair too – around 100 per day!).  In fact, shedding old, dead hair allows the new coat to grow in. It is actually a bit of a myth that some breeds don’t shed: while all dogs shed, the amount of shedding actually varies greatly from breed to breed. The downside to those breeds that shed little to no hair (for example: terriers, maltese, shih tzus, poodles, bichon frises, and water dogs) is that they usually need to be professionally groomed (or clipped) often, otherwise their fur is highly prone to matting.

The benefit, therefore, of a dog that blows out their coat or sheds consistently year round, is that these breeds typically don’t need much, if any, professional coat-cutting, since nature pretty much takes care of that for you! Even though the term “fur” and “hair” are often used interchangeably to describe a dog’s coat, in general, a double coat (made up of a soft, insulating undercoat underneath a coarser topcoat made up of guard hairs, the longer outer coat hairs), like that of a Siberian Husky, Shiba, Chow Chow, or Samoyed, is correctly referred to as a FUR coat, while a single coat (lacking an undercoat), like that of a shih tzu or a terrier, is actually a HAIR coat.

Evolutionarily, those breeds that originated from the harsh Northern climates needed a dense undercoat to protect and warm them through the frigid winter months, and would shed this undercoat as the need for it waned with the increasing daylight hours of spring and summer months. In today’s world of mostly climate-controlled, pampered and indoor companion animals, the environmental effects of changing seasons and day lengths on fur coats are minimized.  Double-coated dogs that enjoy the outdoors, and as a result, spend most of their time outside, will usually have two distinct seasons of shedding that respond to the changing season from winter to spring and fall to winter. Indoor dogs tend to shed at a fairly consistent and continuous rate, unless other factors trigger a more pronounced shed.

Other things that influence hair growth and shedding include genetics, nutrition, age, sex, health status, season, and the normal hormonal fluctuations of an “intact” dog. I was having a conversation with a dog breeder the other day and she mentioned offhandedly, “oh, yes, I can always tell if a dog is spayed or neutered from the coat. You’ll never see a more beautiful coat than on a fixed dog.” I thought that was an interesting comment, which, in part, prompted my research for this article! And in fact, hormonal levels definitely impact the condition and quantity/type of coat. Spayed and castrated dogs usually have denser undercoats, which gives that fluffy, “cottony” appearance. I am still waiting, however, to see whether or not my two chows (one male, one female, both “fixed”) will in fact, “blow coat” as spring progresses, more than the relatively massive amount of hair that comes out in the nightly brushing session. Maybe they’re in the process already; it’s my first “season” with them, so I have no comparison point. That said, my male chow is shedding more voluminously and much more noticeably from his undercoat than his sister; who basically feels like touching the fluffiest cloud of cotton candy you can imagine.

Read on to Part 2, where we cover (in detail) the best way to manage blowing coats.

As a quick preview, we’ll give you a hint:

Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.