Posts Tagged ‘shampoo’

Shiny coats = happy, healthy dogs

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

Hair matters. Remember that old shampoo commercial: “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful?” as the model swung her luscious, full, shiny mane of hair in slow motion towards the camera? It was pretty darn effective: sales of that brand of shampoo soared, and the tagline is still memorable today, at least 15 years later.

Even as styles and even ideal weights and body sizes have varied throughout cultures and different eras, shiny, full, bouncy hair has always been desirable, and a sign of youth, health, and attractiveness.

The dog with a pretty, shiny coat and the sparkly eyes will always be adopted first, over the dog with a scruffy, patchy coat with bald spots and dull eyes.

…Oh, did you think I was talking about women?

Well, maybe I was initially. But just as in humans, in dogs, how supple, smooth, and shiny the skin and hair (or fur) appears is an externally visible reflection of overall health.

If your dog has a dull, dry coat, this is an external indication of poor nutritional health. A good diet is essential to good coat health, but just as in humans, a good skin and haircare (or coat care) routine is necessary to supplement a good diet.

Key (food) ingredients to good hair and coat health (take notes, not just for your canine friend, but for yourself too!) are:

  • Linoleic acid: This is an Omega-6 fatty acid that supports the proper functioning of the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without the proper production of skin oils, over time, the coat will look dry and lusterless. In addition, linoleic acid helps to prevent water loss from the skin.
  • Omega-3 fatty acids (notably, EPA and DHA): These are considered to be the foundation of healthy skin, and are also recommended to support organ function such as heart and kidney function and joint health. EPA and DHA are the Omega-3 fatty acids that work at the cellular level to help the immune system react optimally when it faces challenges.
  • Vitamins A, C, and E; and Zinc: These vitamins and the mineral Zinc help to neutralize free radicals that can harm cells.
  • B vitamins (including biotin): B’s are critical to proper cellular functioning, including skin and hair health.
  • Choline and Inositol: These substances help to maintain the integrity of skin cells.

Of course, ideal hair/coat-care consists of a two-pronged strategy – from the inside-out (what you eat shows up in your glowing skin and shiny, lush hair/fur), and also, from the outside-in. Your hair (and coat-care) products really do matter. That’s why we’ve spent so much time crafting the best quality shampoo and conditioning products possible. Here are some key things to look for in your pet shampoo and coat care products:

Because dog’s skin and coat is so sensitive, it’s crucial that you never use harsh cleansers - soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue behind.

  • The cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, soap-free, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.
  • Use a pH-balanced cleanser. Dogs’ skin pH is almost neutral, meaning that the pH balanced shampoos for HUMANS will be much more acidic and as a result, highly irritating to their much more sensitive skin.
  • Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners are key to replacing the nourishing oils that can be washed away, and skin-soothing ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal promote healing of skin irritations and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin.

 

What makes a quality dog shampoo?

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011

We are passionate about animals: especially the dogs, cats, and horses who share our lives, our homes, and our beds (well, hopefully your horses aren’t sharing your bed!). Because our pets are family members too, we feel that they deserve nothing but the best. This is why we do what we do: simply, to create the best, most animal- and eco-friendly grooming formulas for our pets. (Not to mention, for you too: we won’t tell anyone if you steal your dog’s Mango Tango – and you probably will, once you get a whiff of the delicious fragrance!)

Over the years, we’ve gotten a lot of questions about what exactly makes earthbath a top-quality shampoo and what differentiates earthbath from the other brands on the market. When we started, we were asking these questions too, because we wanted to ensure we created the best product possible.

A high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner must always have a few vitally important components:

1) A pH value that is especially formulated for a dog’s delicate skin (between 6.5 to 7.5), since a dog’s skin pH is more neutral than a human’s. The pH of dog’s skin is about 7.5 where a human’s skin is about 5.5, on the standard pH scale from 0 to 14. The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. A pH of 7 is neutral (pure water has a pH of 7.0). A pH less than 7 is acidic, where each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, pH 4 is ten times more acidic than pH 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than pH 6. The same holds true for pH values above 7, each of which is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value.

A dog’s skin is very close to a neutral pH, and significantly more alkaline than human skin, so the kind of shampoo you use on your dog should be much more neutral in pH than the typical pH value of shampoo formulated for human hair (“pH balanced” shampoos for humans are around 4.5-5.5, making them much more acidic, and ultimately very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin). Over time, acidic shampoos also strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Never use human shampoo on your dog… even though it’s okay to use your dog’s shampoo (as long as it’s earthbath :-) ) on your hair – the alkalinic nature of earthbath shampoo will not hurt your hair, and in fact, is milder than the mildest baby shampoo! All of earthbath shampoos are formulated with a pH as close to 7.0 as possible.

2) Mild cleansing ingredients; ideally soap-free. Soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue. All earthbath products are soap-free; the cleansing agents used in earthbath shampoos are hypo-allergenic, renewable coconut-based cleansers, which are excellent at cleansing, without drying out the skin or coat.

3) Easy to rinse out so nothing is left behind on the fur or skin. earthbath worked with veterinarians & groomers to develop ultra-mild shampoos that wash out super easily, with ingredients that are 100% natural, non-toxic, paraben-free, phthalate-free, animal-byproduct-free, and phosphate-free. Even if a tiny bit is left behind, there is nothing harmful in earthbath products to irritate your dog’s skin or fur, and you don’t need to worry about upset tummies following any licking or grooming! Since there is nothing artificial or harmful (to either plants or animals) in our products you never have to worry about the effect giving your dog a bath has on the environment either!

4)  Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners to help the skin and coat maintain their healthy feel and shine. earthbath products contain all-natural ingredients like aloe vera and oatmeal, both recommended by veterinarians to effectively combat skin irritation, promote healing, and re-moisturize sensitive, dry skin. Almost all of our shampoos contain aloe vera for extra moisturizing, including our bestselling Clear Advantages, and our Hypo-Allergenic, just for those extra-sensitive or allergic dogs. Though all of earthbath shampoos are effective and mild, if you have a dog plagued by the itchies, you’ll definitely want to check out our Oatmeal and Aloe shampoo.

People-Tested & Pet Approved!

Really…

We aren’t kidding when we say “People-Tested!”  Our CEO Paul personally tests every product on himself, and many people write to tell us how their whole family uses earthbath Puppy (“we LOVE the cherry scent!”)/Mango Tango (“it smells better than any other shampoo I’ve ever bought!”)/Green Tea Leaf (“hands down, my favorite!”)/or one of our other twelve shampoos! Try one today and tell us which one you love most!

A DIY How-To Guide on Doggy Bathtime

Monday, March 28th, 2011

A dog groomer may just be your (and your clean bathroom’s) best friend, but if you’re more inclined to suds-up yourself, either to save money, to bond with your dog, or because entrusting your furbaby to a stranger simply seems to be more stress than you (or he) can bear, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible! Personally, we’ve never been to a professional groomer, and our two 50 pound dogs would be horrified at the very thought!  They have learned to deal with the at-home bathtub experience, low-tech as it may be!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!

Shedding woes, part 1: What does “blowing coat” mean?

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011

In this two-part series over the next two weeks, we describe the seasonal insanity that is “blowing coat” and then, detail the best way to manage this massive shedding!

Some dog owners may never come across this dreaded two-word phrase (Looking at you, you single-coated breed owners, you!), but those of us who have the pleasure of sharing our lives (and homes) with the furrier Arctic breeds, made all the fluffier by a warm, dense undercoat,also have the distinct DISPLEASURE of finding great tumbleweeds of fur blowing through our homes once, twice, or even three times a year, depending on the climate, the type of dog, gender, whether or not the dog is “intact,” and how much time s/he spends outside.

In fact, for all the frustration (and extra vacuuming) it can cause, it is completely natural for dogs to “blow coat” once or twice annually, changing their winter coat to a lighter one for summer, as the seasons change. All dogs shed (we humans “shed” hair too – around 100 per day!).  In fact, shedding old, dead hair allows the new coat to grow in. It is actually a bit of a myth that some breeds don’t shed: while all dogs shed, the amount of shedding actually varies greatly from breed to breed. The downside to those breeds that shed little to no hair (for example: terriers, maltese, shih tzus, poodles, bichon frises, and water dogs) is that they usually need to be professionally groomed (or clipped) often, otherwise their fur is highly prone to matting.

The benefit, therefore, of a dog that blows out their coat or sheds consistently year round, is that these breeds typically don’t need much, if any, professional coat-cutting, since nature pretty much takes care of that for you! Even though the term “fur” and “hair” are often used interchangeably to describe a dog’s coat, in general, a double coat (made up of a soft, insulating undercoat underneath a coarser topcoat made up of guard hairs, the longer outer coat hairs), like that of a Siberian Husky, Shiba, Chow Chow, or Samoyed, is correctly referred to as a FUR coat, while a single coat (lacking an undercoat), like that of a shih tzu or a terrier, is actually a HAIR coat.

Evolutionarily, those breeds that originated from the harsh Northern climates needed a dense undercoat to protect and warm them through the frigid winter months, and would shed this undercoat as the need for it waned with the increasing daylight hours of spring and summer months. In today’s world of mostly climate-controlled, pampered and indoor companion animals, the environmental effects of changing seasons and day lengths on fur coats are minimized.  Double-coated dogs that enjoy the outdoors, and as a result, spend most of their time outside, will usually have two distinct seasons of shedding that respond to the changing season from winter to spring and fall to winter. Indoor dogs tend to shed at a fairly consistent and continuous rate, unless other factors trigger a more pronounced shed.

Other things that influence hair growth and shedding include genetics, nutrition, age, sex, health status, season, and the normal hormonal fluctuations of an “intact” dog. I was having a conversation with a dog breeder the other day and she mentioned offhandedly, “oh, yes, I can always tell if a dog is spayed or neutered from the coat. You’ll never see a more beautiful coat than on a fixed dog.” I thought that was an interesting comment, which, in part, prompted my research for this article! And in fact, hormonal levels definitely impact the condition and quantity/type of coat. Spayed and castrated dogs usually have denser undercoats, which gives that fluffy, “cottony” appearance. I am still waiting, however, to see whether or not my two chows (one male, one female, both “fixed”) will in fact, “blow coat” as spring progresses, more than the relatively massive amount of hair that comes out in the nightly brushing session. Maybe they’re in the process already; it’s my first “season” with them, so I have no comparison point. That said, my male chow is shedding more voluminously and much more noticeably from his undercoat than his sister; who basically feels like touching the fluffiest cloud of cotton candy you can imagine.

Read on to Part 2, where we cover (in detail) the best way to manage blowing coats.

As a quick preview, we’ll give you a hint:

Brush, Wash, Brush, Repeat.

How often should I bathe my dog?

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Recently, we got this great question posted on our Facebook wall by a great pet store named Dolittles in Charleston, SC: We suggested dogs be bathed not more than every 2-3 weeks to reduce the potential of their bodies overproducing natural oils (a sometimes smelly proposition). A fan then posted a comment asking: “but doesn’t clean hair grow faster and stronger?” We hope there is a happy medium, and thought… our friends at earthbath might offer their opinion on this subject.

The simple answer, is, “it depends.” Sorry, it’s not so simple! Glibness aside, what we mean by this is: how often you bathe your dog depends on many individual factors such as what breed of dog you have, any specific skin sensitivities and allergies, coat type, your lifestyle and the climate you live in (humid & hot, hot & dry, windy & cold), what season it is, your dog’s activity level (which may vary based on climate, season, breed, and your lifestyle…), and of course, the kind of shampoo you use! You can be confident in bathing your dog much more frequently if you know the shampoo is chock full of nothing but the most gentle and pure ingredients, containing nothing that will irritate your dog’s skin.

Generally speaking, you will know that your active dog is in dire need of a bath when he is covered in mud from rolling around the yard, matted with muck from the other slobbery dogs at the dog park, or after summer adventures spent playing in a barn, romping through the fields, and/or swimming in a algae-covered lake. That said, if your dog is so active that he cavorts like this every day, you should probably give him a full bath every week to ten days, and in the interim, compromise with other in-between cleansing options like quick and easy wipes (which are gentle enough to use multiple times a day after every outing, especially on paws, and icky areas like goo-encrusted eyes and waxy ears) waterless foams (just rub on and towel off) and the all-important spritz to keep doggy smells at bay. Of course, earthbath makes it uber-easy for despairing owners of dirty dogs, with many different bath and cleansing options, all designed to work together to keep to keep both muck-loving dogs and human family members happy!

In contrast, a lap dog who would never deign to get her princess paws dirty, let alone roll around in the mud, needs a bath much less frequently, and could probably get by on a good brushing, some earthbath wipes and the occasional waterless foam bath.

Again, depending on where you live, how you live, how much time you have, or money, if you turn over grooming duties to someone else, and grooming needs your dog’s coat requires you could get away with bathing your dog every couple of months, or may need to undertake some combination of grooming (even if it’s just a swipe with an earthbath wipe and a brushing) each day.

Here are some more specific guidelines on answering this recurrent question…

1. What Kind of Coat Does Your Dog Wear?

  • Double or undercoat dogs (i.e. Siberian Huskies, Pekingese, Chow Chows), should have a bath once every 2 to 6 weeks (depending on activity level and how dirty they get); though they should be brushed weekly, at least, to prevent mats and “hot spots” (areas of moisture trapped in their undercoat) which can become quite painful and infected.
  • Silky long coat (ie. Shih Tzus, Yorkies, Lhasa Apsos), should bathe once every 3 to 6 weeks, but lavish brushing love on these divas daily!
  • Non-shedding curly coat (ie. Poodles), bathe ‘em once every 6 to 8 weeks
  • Smooth, short coat (ie. Chihuahua, Boston Terrier), bathe no more than once every couple of months or only when the dog is noticeably dirty: These dogs have more sensitive skin, due to their short coats. Frequent baths will wash away the protective waterproofing oils produced by the skin.
  • Wiry/Coarse coat (ie. Schnauzers and most terriers), bathe once every 4 to 6 weeks, though these breeds can often develop dry skin and skin sensitivities.

Of course, and we can’t stress this enough, the best way to keep your dog’s coat shiny and healthy, with no skin irritations including itchies, hot spots, and dandruff, is to feed them a very high quality grain-free diet high in natural proteins, and bathe with pure, gentle soap-free, pH balanced earthbath products, where we live (and bathe) by the motto: “People-Tested & Pet Approved.”

If you’re bathing frequently, consider what you’re bathing with. If you’re using a cheap sulfate-laden shampoo, rife with harsh and unnatural ingredients including phthalates, parabens (oil based), and artificial colors and fragrances, you’ll end up with more problems than a dirty dog, and will end up spending more money to treat the ensuing problems than you would have at the outset on a better quality shampoo.

2. It’s A Dog’s Life…

Mud-Lovers: If your dog is never as happy as when he’s just jumped head first into a mud-puddle (like this one), and loves to roll around in the mud every chance he gets, you may have to bathe him every time he does (unless you enjoy mud-adorned furniture and floors). Assuming he’s not getting daily mud baths, you can just brush out small amounts of dry dirt in his fur. In between full baths, our grooming foams are great for removing excess oil and grime in the coat but if you’re dog is pretty filthy, into the tub he should go! If your dog lives in a perpetually wet environment (like, say, the great but soggy Pacific Northwest in winter), and as a result, gets muddy almost every time he goes out, the best shampoo is one that is completely hypoallergenic and ultra-mild, such as earthbath’s Hypo-Allergenic Shampoo or earthbath Clear Advantages. Any old shampoo (including most human shampoos) will completely strip away his natural oils in no time. All of earthbath shampoos are soap-free, hypo-allergenic, and pH-balanced to clean gently, thoroughly, and safely. Even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because earthbath uses only mild, safe, non-irritants.

Swimmers: If your dog is a water-loving breed like a Newfoundland, Lab, or Water Retriever, you’ll have to give him a bath after almost every swim to wash out the chlorine (from the pool) or the salt water (from the ocean), though you could probably get away with some rinse-only cycles in between full baths.  Most important for these dogs is a good conditioner like our All-Natural Crème Rinse & Conditioner to retain the natural oils in his lustrous coat since all of that water play is robbing his skin of protective oils, in addition to the frequent baths.

Daily Walkers: For “normal” dogs that just go outside to relieve themselves and exercise on a brief daily walk, keep the box of earthbath wipes by the door, (and in the car while we’re at it) in whatever “flavor” is your fave, to make sure he doesn’t track the street (or the neighbor’s dog’s poo) all over your brand new Oriental rug.

3. Climate: One Hot Dog Please! (Hold the mustard)

All dogs require more baths during the summer: after all, it’s the season of tick and flea infestation (wonderful), not to mention increased oil production and generally more time spent outdoors playing.  Bathe weekly or every two weeks, depending on your (and your dog’s) preference, keeping those other water-free alternatives nearby.

4. Skin Allergies and Disorders

Some of our beloved furry friends have skin allergies and sensitivities that can make it difficult to get clean and remain simultaneously happy. (Puppies & kittens often fall into this category.) earthbath solved this dilemma by blending the finest natural ingredients into our mild, hypo-allergenic, tearless shampoo. It cleanses thoroughly and safely, and even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because we used only mild, safe, non-irritants. To be perfectly honest, we’ve heard from many people with problems that they see much better results with our shampoo than those (high priced, stinky) medicated dog shampoos sold at the vet’s office, but of course, we must stress the importance of consulting with your vet on any suspected health problem, including skin issues, and following your vet’s advice!

After all, maybe your dog is onto something…