Posts Tagged ‘skincare’

Pet grooming: it’s not just a vanity thing

Monday, October 17th, 2011
dog grooming dog bath

A "spa day" for your dog is good for his health and yours!

ANOTHER trip to the salon – and how much for that wash, blow-dry, and style?  Sometimes it can feel like your dog gets more “spa” days than you do! But before you start to think the trips to the groomers are a frivolous extra that your dog could go without, think again. Brushing and shampooing your dogs isn’t just to beautify them (though of course that’s a major benefit) and decrease the offense to our human noses that can come with just a little too much “doggy” smell around the house. Nope, if your dog is looking a bit rough around the edges, chances are he’s feeling bad too.

That messy coat could be disguising hidden tangles and mats underneath, which, as they worsen, actually pull on the skin, stretching it into the mat and sometimes even causing sores and infections. Long-haired and double-coated dogs are particularly at-risk for painful and health-hazardous mats, as burrs, thorns, sharp grasses and even twigs can become lodged in their fur and burrow their way down closer to the skin.

Linebrushing is the key to successfully grooming a long-haired or double-coated dog. First, your dog should be settled comfortably lying down on the floor or on his grooming table. He should be used to being groomed, because this will take a bit of time – and if not, start slowly, use treats, and get him accustomed to laying still for longer and longer periods of time until you are done. Divide your dog into large sections (e.g., head, neck and chest, shoulders, each side, his rear end, his underbelly, and legs), and completely brush out each section before moving on. Within each section, using your brush, part the coat either horizontally across the dog or vertically down his spine. Use this part as the base for your linebrushing. As you brush, make sure you brush all the way to the skin and brush the hair up and away from the part. As you go, you can mist the coat with water or a conditioning spritz as you to help detangle and condition the coat.

The biggest problem professional groomers see is when dogs are brought in because their undercoats are so terribly matted yet their owners will be confused because they say they brush them daily. The reason for all of the mats is because they only get brushed on the surface, and never penetrate to the skin. Linebrushing solves this problem.

Double-coated breeds typically blow their coat twice a year, and if you have one of these dogs with a thick undercoat, chances are you’re going through a heavy shed period right now. It’s even more important to facilitate the coat-blowing process by constant brushing and grooming. Shampooing will loosen all of the dead hair, and being vigilant about daily brushing will ensure that mats are minimized, which can also inhibit the coat-blowing process.  For more specifics on managing coat-blowing, check out our blog post on shedding.

If you’re looking to save money on groomers’ fees, it’s not that hard to bathe your dog at home by yourself, provided you have all of your materials prepped and ready to go. Make sure to read our easy-to-follow 4-step DIY guide to dog bathing for more!

Know that every time you spend time with your dog brushing, bathing, or drying him off with a big hug, you’re not just making him look pretty: you’re doing good things for his health too, not to mention bonding with him!

Happy grooming!

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Posted in Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Shedding | No Comments »

A DIY How-To Guide on Doggy Bathtime

Monday, March 28th, 2011

A dog groomer may just be your (and your clean bathroom’s) best friend, but if you’re more inclined to suds-up yourself, either to save money, to bond with your dog, or because entrusting your furbaby to a stranger simply seems to be more stress than you (or he) can bear, we’ll walk you through the steps guaranteed to ensure the experience is as painless (and maybe even fun!) as possible! Personally, we’ve never been to a professional groomer, and our two 50 pound dogs would be horrified at the very thought!  They have learned to deal with the at-home bathtub experience, low-tech as it may be!

1) Gather Your Gear: First, get all of your bath supplies together in the bathroom before you get your dog.

You’ll need:

Make sure you are prepared with a high-quality shampoo made specifically for dogs. Dogs’ skin is a different pH than humans’ so it’s never a good idea to use human shampoo on a dog because human shampoo will dry out a dog’s skin very fast and cause a lot of undue problems. All of earthbath’s shampoos are made with all-natural ingredients including natural essential oils and other good stuff from nature. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, artificial dyes or fragrances, phosphates, or toxins, so you don’t have to worry about what might be left behind on your pet or the environment.

2) Prep: (Brush) Before you wash your dog, brush him. Removing all the loose hair and mats makes the bath easier on everyone. You’re less likely to have matting and tangling if the dog has been thoroughly brushed out first. Water tends to exacerbate existing problems, turning small tangles into mats and small mats into big mats, all of which are very painful to remove. If your dog has twigs, straw, dirt clumps, or other detritus tangled up in his fur, remove it or clip it out if it doesn’t come out easily with a brush.

Once you have your dog in the bathroom, don’t make the mistake I made the first time I tried to wash my dog and leave the door open! Close the door so he doesn’t take the opportunity to leap out of the shower, sopping wet, spraying dog bathwater all over the house!!

3) Wash Cycle: Begin by thoroughly wetting down his fur. Generally it’s easiest to work in the shampoo if you water it down with some water in your hand first.  Make sure you are extra careful not to get soapy water in his ears, eyes, or nose. It’s actually better to do these areas with wipes that have pure, hypo-allergenic ingredients for these extra-sensitive areas. earthbath makes wipes specifically for the ears and eyes. The ear wipes contain witch hazel, a natural cleanser and astringent, to clean out wax and discharge which can cause infections and odor, and the eye wipes are hypo-allergenic and fragrance-free for the extra-sensitive eye area, containing only purified water, aloe vera, and sensitive cleansers boric acid and polysorbate to to keep the area around your pet’s eyes clean and free of tear stains, dirt, secretions and other general discharge with no irritation.

4) Rinse Cycle: When you are done soaping up, it’s time to rinse! Rinsing is extremely important and generally takes at least twice as long as the washing up part (which is why a hand sprayer is very helpful). You want to make sure that absolutely no soap residue is left because it can irritate your dog’s skin.  You can use a doggy conditioner to ensure extra moisturizing for both his coat and his skin. earthbath even offers a wonderful conditioner and creme rinse with colloidal oatmeal that detangles, enriches, and revives the appearance of your pet’s coat and is extra soothing on the skin.

5) Dry Cycle: Now be prepared for some shaking.  (You’ll likely want to resign yourself to the shower to come!) Now it’s time to dry Fido off with all of those towels you’ve collected (the more the better, particularly if he’s medium to large and/or very hairy!), If you’ve trained him from an early age to stand still and accept the noise of a blow dryer, you can also blow out his coat with a brush (curling irons and styling optional!). Keep Fido out of drafts until he’s completely dry, and then curl up with your new daisy-fresh dog!

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Posted in Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Fun Stuff, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | No Comments »

What are “hot spots” and what are the best ways to treat them?

Monday, September 27th, 2010

Sorry, we’re not
talking about Ibiza. ————->

“Hot Spots,”  also known as moist eczema, are often associated with dampness of the undercoat in heavy-coated breeds, as well as general inflamed skin irritations caused by a myriad of things. Hot spots are red, weeping rashes that can occur anywhere on the body. If your dog has long hair, the spot may be seen as an oily matting of the surface hair. However, the exact cause of hot spots isn’t completely determined. This is probably because many things can contribute to their origination. Soap residue left in the coat and on the skin after a bath is one main culprit, along with flea infestations, wounds, food or seasonal allergies, and hormone disorders. Other highly suspect causes are food-related; many people believe corn or grain in the diet (often found in lesser-quality foods) can cause many skin irritations to dogs, chief among them, the dreaded hot spots.  Minor skin irritations like insect bites and burrs can turn into hot spots, particularly if the dog has sensitive skin.  Allergies in dogs usually appear after puppyhood, and tend to flare up more in the hot summer months. Hormone disorders like thyroid deficiencies also tend to show up after puppyhood, and are year-round conditions that must be treated by your vet.

Hot spots can appear overnight, growing from a tiny spot to a huge, angry, oozing and hot sore. Dogs then become their worst enemy when it comes to hot spots – the sores hurt and itch, so they try to relieve the pain by chewing at at, which only aggravates the hot spot further.

If the dog breaks out shortly after a bath, then the most likely cause is that he wasn’t rinsed out enough. The best rule of thumb in bathing (and most importantly, rinsing) a dog, is to suds up, rinse until the water runs clear, and then rinse again. And for good measure, dry off with a towel (or let him shake it [shake it like a polaroid picture...!]) and then rinse again.  Rinsing well becomes more critical than ever when using a low-quality shampoo “made for dogs” or even humans. The harsh soap and surfactant chemicals in these low-quality shampoos is the number one cause of dry, itchy skin, dandruff, and the development of skin allergies and worse. To avoid all of these problems, simply use a high-quality, all-natural and gentle shampoo. This is the main reason that we never use any harsh ingredients or man-made chemicals in any of our products. All earthbath shampoos contain totally natural essential oils and the most exceptionally mild and renewable coconut-based cleansers along with other skin-soothing ingredients like aloe vera. They never contain parabens, harsh soaps, phosphates, or artificial dyes or fragrances.

If you’re facing hot-spot trouble, the key to controlling and clearing it up is to first, prevent the dog from scratching and chewing at it, which only serves to further irritate it, and second, relieve the itching and discomfort (which will obviously help solve the first problem). If your dog simply won’t let the spot alone, you may need to outfit him with a special “collar cone” that he wears around his neck, so he can’t reach the spot. Although there are several prescription ointments that your veterinarian can prescribe, many all-natural essential oils solve the problem just as well, and without the harsh chemicals. We asked our Facebook fans what their favorite hot-spot solutions are and we got a lot of great answers including the use of Coconut Oil or Neem Oil Salve to help clear up the hot spots easily and quickly, as well as emphasis on a premium, often raw-food diet with a lot of high-quality proteins like bison and venison, with the inclusion of vegetables and cod liver oil to balance the diet out.

If your dog has hot-spot trouble, or general itchy, sensitive or irritated skin, try using our all-natural Tea Tree Oil and Aloe Shampoo and Spritz. Our Tea Tree Oil spritz is the simple solution: it’s blended with soothing melaleuca oil, nature’s finest hot spot ointment. Tea Tree Oil has long been recognized as an effective and beneficial antibacterial and soothing agent for all skin irritations, ranging from acne to insect bites (if you don’t believe us, try it yourself the next time you have a minor breakout or are a meal for mosquitoes yourself!).   In addition, Aloe Vera is widely known as one of nature’s finest soothing emollients. The combination of Tea Tree Oil and Aloe Vera soothe and relieve hot spots and itchy, dried or chafed skin caused by flea bites, dandruff or other dermatitis. Both the shampoo and Hot Spot & Itch Relief spritz re-moisturizes the skin and coat while delivering a healthy shine and supple softness, without leaving oily residue. The spritz has premium conditioners, colloidal oatmeal (oatmeal is also very soothing to the skin), and vitamin E help to condition, soothe & rehydrate skin while creating show-quality shines between baths.

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Posted in Canine Health, Diet, Dogs, earthbath, Fleas and Ticks, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Natural Remedies, Pet Owners, Skin Care | No Comments »

How often should I bathe my dog?

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Recently, we got this great question posted on our Facebook wall by a great pet store named Dolittles in Charleston, SC: We suggested dogs be bathed not more than every 2-3 weeks to reduce the potential of their bodies overproducing natural oils (a sometimes smelly proposition). A fan then posted a comment asking: “but doesn’t clean hair grow faster and stronger?” We hope there is a happy medium, and thought… our friends at earthbath might offer their opinion on this subject.

The simple answer, is, “it depends.” Sorry, it’s not so simple! Glibness aside, what we mean by this is: how often you bathe your dog depends on many individual factors such as what breed of dog you have, any specific skin sensitivities and allergies, coat type, your lifestyle and the climate you live in (humid & hot, hot & dry, windy & cold), what season it is, your dog’s activity level (which may vary based on climate, season, breed, and your lifestyle…), and of course, the kind of shampoo you use! You can be confident in bathing your dog much more frequently if you know the shampoo is chock full of nothing but the most gentle and pure ingredients, containing nothing that will irritate your dog’s skin.

Generally speaking, you will know that your active dog is in dire need of a bath when he is covered in mud from rolling around the yard, matted with muck from the other slobbery dogs at the dog park, or after summer adventures spent playing in a barn, romping through the fields, and/or swimming in a algae-covered lake. That said, if your dog is so active that he cavorts like this every day, you should probably give him a full bath every week to ten days, and in the interim, compromise with other in-between cleansing options like quick and easy wipes (which are gentle enough to use multiple times a day after every outing, especially on paws, and icky areas like goo-encrusted eyes and waxy ears) waterless foams (just rub on and towel off) and the all-important spritz to keep doggy smells at bay. Of course, earthbath makes it uber-easy for despairing owners of dirty dogs, with many different bath and cleansing options, all designed to work together to keep to keep both muck-loving dogs and human family members happy!

In contrast, a lap dog who would never deign to get her princess paws dirty, let alone roll around in the mud, needs a bath much less frequently, and could probably get by on a good brushing, some earthbath wipes and the occasional waterless foam bath.

Again, depending on where you live, how you live, how much time you have, or money, if you turn over grooming duties to someone else, and grooming needs your dog’s coat requires you could get away with bathing your dog every couple of months, or may need to undertake some combination of grooming (even if it’s just a swipe with an earthbath wipe and a brushing) each day.

Here are some more specific guidelines on answering this recurrent question…

1. What Kind of Coat Does Your Dog Wear?

  • Double or undercoat dogs (i.e. Siberian Huskies, Pekingese, Chow Chows), should have a bath once every 2 to 6 weeks (depending on activity level and how dirty they get); though they should be brushed weekly, at least, to prevent mats and “hot spots” (areas of moisture trapped in their undercoat) which can become quite painful and infected.
  • Silky long coat (ie. Shih Tzus, Yorkies, Lhasa Apsos), should bathe once every 3 to 6 weeks, but lavish brushing love on these divas daily!
  • Non-shedding curly coat (ie. Poodles), bathe ‘em once every 6 to 8 weeks
  • Smooth, short coat (ie. Chihuahua, Boston Terrier), bathe no more than once every couple of months or only when the dog is noticeably dirty: These dogs have more sensitive skin, due to their short coats. Frequent baths will wash away the protective waterproofing oils produced by the skin.
  • Wiry/Coarse coat (ie. Schnauzers and most terriers), bathe once every 4 to 6 weeks, though these breeds can often develop dry skin and skin sensitivities.

Of course, and we can’t stress this enough, the best way to keep your dog’s coat shiny and healthy, with no skin irritations including itchies, hot spots, and dandruff, is to feed them a very high quality grain-free diet high in natural proteins, and bathe with pure, gentle soap-free, pH balanced earthbath products, where we live (and bathe) by the motto: “People-Tested & Pet Approved.”

If you’re bathing frequently, consider what you’re bathing with. If you’re using a cheap sulfate-laden shampoo, rife with harsh and unnatural ingredients including phthalates, parabens (oil based), and artificial colors and fragrances, you’ll end up with more problems than a dirty dog, and will end up spending more money to treat the ensuing problems than you would have at the outset on a better quality shampoo.

2. It’s A Dog’s Life…

Mud-Lovers: If your dog is never as happy as when he’s just jumped head first into a mud-puddle (like this one), and loves to roll around in the mud every chance he gets, you may have to bathe him every time he does (unless you enjoy mud-adorned furniture and floors). Assuming he’s not getting daily mud baths, you can just brush out small amounts of dry dirt in his fur. In between full baths, our grooming foams are great for removing excess oil and grime in the coat but if you’re dog is pretty filthy, into the tub he should go! If your dog lives in a perpetually wet environment (like, say, the great but soggy Pacific Northwest in winter), and as a result, gets muddy almost every time he goes out, the best shampoo is one that is completely hypoallergenic and ultra-mild, such as earthbath’s Hypo-Allergenic Shampoo or earthbath Clear Advantages. Any old shampoo (including most human shampoos) will completely strip away his natural oils in no time. All of earthbath shampoos are soap-free, hypo-allergenic, and pH-balanced to clean gently, thoroughly, and safely. Even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because earthbath uses only mild, safe, non-irritants.

Swimmers: If your dog is a water-loving breed like a Newfoundland, Lab, or Water Retriever, you’ll have to give him a bath after almost every swim to wash out the chlorine (from the pool) or the salt water (from the ocean), though you could probably get away with some rinse-only cycles in between full baths.  Most important for these dogs is a good conditioner like our All-Natural Crème Rinse & Conditioner to retain the natural oils in his lustrous coat since all of that water play is robbing his skin of protective oils, in addition to the frequent baths.

Daily Walkers: For “normal” dogs that just go outside to relieve themselves and exercise on a brief daily walk, keep the box of earthbath wipes by the door, (and in the car while we’re at it) in whatever “flavor” is your fave, to make sure he doesn’t track the street (or the neighbor’s dog’s poo) all over your brand new Oriental rug.

3. Climate: One Hot Dog Please! (Hold the mustard)

All dogs require more baths during the summer: after all, it’s the season of tick and flea infestation (wonderful), not to mention increased oil production and generally more time spent outdoors playing.  Bathe weekly or every two weeks, depending on your (and your dog’s) preference, keeping those other water-free alternatives nearby.

4. Skin Allergies and Disorders

Some of our beloved furry friends have skin allergies and sensitivities that can make it difficult to get clean and remain simultaneously happy. (Puppies & kittens often fall into this category.) earthbath solved this dilemma by blending the finest natural ingredients into our mild, hypo-allergenic, tearless shampoo. It cleanses thoroughly and safely, and even the most sensitive skin will not be affected because we used only mild, safe, non-irritants. To be perfectly honest, we’ve heard from many people with problems that they see much better results with our shampoo than those (high priced, stinky) medicated dog shampoos sold at the vet’s office, but of course, we must stress the importance of consulting with your vet on any suspected health problem, including skin issues, and following your vet’s advice!

After all, maybe your dog is onto something…

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Posted in Breeds, Canine Health, Dogs, earthbath, Fleas and Ticks, Grooming, Helpful Pet Hints, Natural Remedies, Pet Owners, Shedding, Skin Care | 1 Comment »

Natural Relief for Dry, Itchy Winter Skin

Sunday, January 24th, 2010

If you’re like most pet owners, you’ve probably noticed that your pets’ skin can tend to get dry, itchy, and flaky in the winter time. This can be quite irritating for pets and their people alike! Fortunately there five simple steps you can take to provide natural relief.

  1. Keep the house humid. Use humidifiers to counteract the drying effects of forced-air heating systems. They help maintain adequate moisture in the air, preventing dehydration.
  2. Use oatmeal-based grooming products. Oatmeal is recognized as a natural moisturizer that temporarily relieves itching, and re-moisturizes dry skin and soothes minor skin irritations. Be sure to use a high quality shampoo such as Earthbath Oatmeal & Aloe Shampoo or other high quality natural pet shampoos that contains at least two or three percent colloidal oatmeal. Lather up your dog and massage oatmeal shampoo down to the skin. Leave the preparation on the dog for three to five minutes, rinse well and towel dry or blow dry with air that is not too hot.
  3. Don’t overdo the baths. Limit baths to every week or two in the cold months, as excessive bathing can deplete the skin’s natural moisturizers. Use grooming wipes or waterless grooming foam in between baths if needed to help control odor and dander.
  4. Pay close attention to your dog’s diet. Dry, flaky skin can also be caused by poor quality diet or food allergies. What you feed your pet is just as important as what you put on his skin. Feed super premium foods formulated to avoid skin allergies. For severe cases of dry skin, you can also supplement your pet’s diet with olive oil mixed into his food.
  5. Ask your vet. Last, but certainly not least, absolutely consult with your veterinarian if your dog’s skin problems persist.

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Posted in Canine Health, Diet, Dogs, earthbath, Grooming, Pet News, Pet Owners, Shedding | 1 Comment »